[keiff]

in my quest for overall SQ I have only done one system. Alpine type s components with kicker 5x9's in my low budget beretta. Now that I'm upgrading to a lexus, I would like to creat a much better soundstage over the factory 6 1/2" front drivers, 4" rear drivers and 8 in factory sub. I listen to mostly metal and alternative, which in my current setup sounds ok but I'm missing the lower mid range. In my beretta the 6x9's do the trick, but I'm wondering if there's a better choice for good lower mid range.

 

[Wattser93]

If you're going for SQ, you're going to end up gutting it all out and doing a new system from scratch. Your definition of SQ is probably different than our definition of SQ if you considered your last setup a SQ setup.

99% of us here would start from square one and replace everything rather than mess with the stock equipment.

What's your budget?

 

[keiff]

Around $1k to start, I don't get a whole lot a free time so I would rather build each part of the stage seperately. The biggest thing "missing" is mid lows. Not looking for anything crazy, but would like a 7 speaker set-up. The idea I have is 2 sets of 6 1/2 components, 2 mid range and 1 sub. I have a soundstream ref 500s I can drive either the 2 mids or the sub. Would like a fi sub but the q being 1500w rms is more than what I need.

 

[keiff]

update: does anyone recomend running a 12" sub and running (2) 6 1/2" or 8" subs? as in using a eq. to split the mid lows from the super lows?

 

[trumpet]

update: does anyone recomend running a 12" sub and running (2) 6 1/2" or 8" subs? as in using a eq. to split the mid lows from the super lows?

You must have meant crossover rather than EQ.

It can work, as that's essentially what I have in my car. You would use a bandpass crossover on the smaller subwoofers, which you would want either in the front doors or in the kick panels. There's no point in doing two sizes of subwoofers if they'll all be mounted in the trunk.

 

[keiff]

You must have meant crossover rather than EQ.

It can work, as that's essentially what I have in my car. You would use a bandpass crossover on the smaller subwoofers, which you would want either in the front doors or in the kick panels. There's no point in doing two sizes of subwoofers if they'll all be mounted in the trunk.

i want to mount the small subs in the sailpanels, but only 6 1/2"s will fit.

 

[tornaido_3927]

Small subs? I think you might be better off finding more information on midbass speakers.

Have your sub cover the lows, then your midbasses for the "mid lows", and then your mids for the midrange, and then tweets for the highs obviously.

Rather than "splitting the mid lows and super lows"; I have a feeling this is more what you mean, yes?

 

[keiff]

Small subs? I think you might be better off finding more information on midbass speakers.

Have your sub cover the lows, then your midbasses for the "mid lows", and then your mids for the midrange, and then tweets for the highs obviously.

Rather than "splitting the mid lows and super lows"; I have a feeling this is more what you mean, yes?

yes. im not the greatest with terminology. the usual tweets, midrange, and sub setup just leaves something to be had for me.

 

[tornaido_3927]

Fair enough, I was the same.. Never quite satisfied with a regular 2 way + sub set up..

Check this out; Midbass. That'll give you a starting point to finding out how to achieve good midbass and some decent choices for speakers to use. I hope it's helpful!

 

[sqnut]

Around $1k to start, I don't get a whole lot a free time so I would rather build each part of the stage seperately. The biggest thing "missing" is mid lows. Not looking for anything crazy, but would like a 7 speaker set-up. The idea I have is 2 sets of 6 1/2 components, 2 mid range and 1 sub. I have a soundstream ref 500s I can drive either the 2 mids or the sub. Would like a fi sub but the q being 1500w rms is more than what I need.

i want to mount the small subs in the sailpanels, but only 6 1/2"s will fit.

Keep it simple. You don't need 7 speakers and you don't need subs in your sail panels .

Of the 1k I would spend as follows:

1. Bit ten dsp $400. This will integrate with your factory hu and will take speaker level inputs.

2. For speakers all you need is one set of components for the front stage and a sub adding more speakers is going to add to your issues and will be a step away from sq as I know it. Sell the Alpine and kicker 6x9, lets assume you get ~100-125 for them. Add another $300 to this you can gave a really wide choice for your front stage.

3. If you use your sub for the 20-60hz, then a $1000 sub is not going to sound 5 times better than a $200 one. Box size and power is more important moreso if you're using them in a narrow bandpass.

4. Spend $3-400 on your install. Sound deadening, secure install, proper placement etc.

Once you have the basics covered, good sound is about tuning the setup via your bit ten. Good sound is NOT plug and play, irrespective of the $$ you throw at it. Even if you want plug and play start with a pair of components and sub.

You mention you want more lower mid range. Lower mid range is 300~500, I think you mean you're missing lower mid bass which is the 70-125 range. If the upper mids and highs are too bright in your car, they will mask out a ton of your lower end. That's a tuning issue.

 

[keiff]

-definitely agree on a DSP, but i always thought specializing speakers, thus needing more, was best for getting the whole spectrum loud and clear.
-need rear fill.
-wouldnt a midbass driver (freq res 40-500) bridge the gap from midrange freqs to mid lows?

 

[tornaido_3927]

More speakers can also mean more complexity and more interference between the drivers themselves, without proper implementation it can make things worse having more speakers.
Do you actually need rear fill? Do you have passengers in the car often whom you'd like to play music for? In an SQ setup many don't like to run rear fill because there's no real point, you're in the front of the car so you run the front speakers. As well as more speakers playing same frequencies = destructive interference as stated above.

Yes a midbass would bridge that gap but it's not totally necessary either. Your sub can play up to 80Hz or even 100Hz or over depending on what you get, and midrange speakers can often play down to match with the sub around 100Hz or 80Hz. I doubt you're even going to find a speaker to play the whole range of 40-500 and sound good..

 

[keiff]

More speakers can also mean more complexity and more interference between the drivers themselves, without proper implementation it can make things worse having more speakers.
Do you actually need rear fill? Do you have passengers in the car often whom you'd like to play music for? In an SQ setup many don't like to run rear fill because there's no real point, you're in the front of the car so you run the front speakers. As well as more speakers playing same frequencies = destructive interference as stated above.

Yes a midbass would bridge that gap but it's not totally necessary either. Your sub can play up to 80Hz or even 100Hz or over depending on what you get, and midrange speakers can often play down to match with the sub around 100Hz or 80Hz. I doubt you're even going to find a speaker to play the whole range of 40-500 and sound good..

i NEED it. if theres no rear fill, to me it sounds like crap, but im not saying my mid-bass cant be rear fill. most of the higher freqs are not what i hear anyways, but rather the mid to low.