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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I recently had a very well respected car audio place in town here install the Pioneer 4400nex in my 2003 trailblazer ltz with the bose sound system.

Now, they say they're going to take care of fixing it, but I would like to try and figure out what's going on incase they try to sell me something I do not need.

So, when I am sitting, engine off, key turned on, the stereo works great, sound comes through, head unit on. If I start driving, it will play for a few seconds to a few minutes, then the sound cuts out (including the static I typically hear when not playing anything), and the head unit stays on, the song continues playing, but I can hear nothing. It happens on radio, aux, carplay... All sound sources. Now, when I stop, turn off the engine, but the ignition stays on, the sound kicks back on immediately. There is a squealing noise while the stereo turns on, not a huge deal, kind of annoying but not a deal breaker. Any clues?

The shop said it could be a few things, but obviously wouldn't guarantee which was the source of the problem, as they haven't looked at it in detail yet. They said it could be the GM class II data bus, head unit, or "more likely your amplifier." I think they might just be trying to sell me an amp, and know what the problem is.



I would appreciate any and all input as to what could be causing this, so I can hopefully tell if they're scamming me or if they actually found a problem with my amp.

Thanks

Luke

Also, sorry if this double posts, it said something about my post not being approved and is sent for deletion, but the page refreshed before I had time to read the whole message.
 

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Hey all, I recently had a very well respected car audio place in town here install the Pioneer 4400nex in my 2003 trailblazer ltz with the bose sound system.

Now, they say they're going to take care of fixing it, but I would like to try and figure out what's going on incase they try to sell me something I do not need.

So, when I am sitting, engine off, key turned on, the stereo works great, sound comes through, head unit on. If I start driving, What do you mean when you start driving? Does this occur when the ignition starts the truck, when shifting from park to Drive? When you put your foot on the gas? it will play for a few seconds to a few minutes, then the sound cuts out Does the Hu stay on when this happens or does the screen cut in and out also like it is losing power? (including the static I typically hear when not playing anything), and the head unit stays on, the song continues playing, but I can hear nothing. It happens on radio, aux, carplay... All sound sources. Now, when I stop, turn off the engine, but the ignition stays on, the sound kicks back on immediately. There is a squealing noise while the stereo turns on, not a huge deal, kind of annoying but not a deal breaker. Any clues?

The shop said it could be a few things, but obviously wouldn't guarantee which was the source of the problem, as they haven't looked at it in detail yet. They said it could be the GM class II data bus, head unit, or "more likely your amplifier." I think they might just be trying to sell me an amp, and know what the problem is.



I would appreciate any and all input as to what could be causing this, so I can hopefully tell if they're scamming me or if they actually found a problem with my amp.

Thanks

Luke

Also, sorry if this double posts, it said something about my post not being approved and is sent for deletion, but the page refreshed before I had time to read the whole message.
Did they install a parking brake bypass switch?
Are you running amplifiers or off head unit power?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did they install a parking brake bypass switch?
Are you running amplifiers or off head unit power?
Has nothing to do with pressing the gas. It isn't immediately when I start the engine, or take off the parking brake, or put it in gear. It's while i'm moving, and the timing of when it cuts out is inconsistent, sometimes its its five seconds after I start driving, sometimes a minute or two, it does seem to be over 30mph or so. The HU stays fully on, I can tell siri to do stuff, change settings, change inputs, view texts, use the maps app, everything works, except for sound.

I believe they bypassed the parking brake switch. They said they would make it so I could adjust settings and whatnot while driving (I assume that's a parking brake switch bypass).

The amplifier is the stock one that comes with the vehicle from the factory. It says "bose" on it, but that's pretty much a sticker. One thing they did mention is a higher voltage output on the HU itself, which would make my speakers more powerful. I suppose that could be tripping the amp off for some reason, but you would think that would happen all the time, not just while driving. Would you like me to post any pictures/video? Let me know.
Thanks.
 

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I can't promise it's the problem, but Bose usually does not play very nicely with aftermarket head units. Typically with Bose you need to keep or scrap it all, mixing and matching usually results in big problems.
 

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I can't promise it's the problem, but Bose usually does not play very nicely with aftermarket head units. Typically with Bose you need to keep or scrap it all, mixing and matching usually results in big problems.
I agree. A lot of problems come from the interface which I am assuming they sold you which they should warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can't promise it's the problem, but Bose usually does not play very nicely with aftermarket head units. Typically with Bose you need to keep or scrap it all, mixing and matching usually results in big problems.
Okay. Wish I was told this before hand. Even if I were to change out my amp as well, wouldn't I still need that interface to handle the class II data? (OBD II, chimes, turn signals, steering wheel controls, change oil light, airbags, etc)
 

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Sounds like they mistakenly use the speed sense wire as one of the right rear speaker wire since it’s purple white, When it’s playing, listen if the right rear speaker is playing, also did you have this problem before you changed the radio? If not, it could also be a raw wire touching the radio or chassis while driving.
 

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Okay. Wish I was told this before hand. Even if I were to change out my amp as well, wouldn't I still need that interface to handle the class II data? (OBD II, chimes, turn signals, steering wheel controls, change oil light, airbags, etc)
I'm sure others will chime in. I'm not an installer, so when it comes to integration equipment, I don't have much experience. Outside of the two vehicles I've worked closely with over the last decade, I haven't done much with making aftermarket and OEM equipment work together. There are plenty of guys on here who have worked on enough different cars that they can offer much more helpful information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey guys.
Thanks for all the responses. It was the speedsense wire, and a bad data bus. It works great now. The shop had it fixed and ready to rock in about 45 minutes. Sounds great, works great. I appreciate all the help.

Luke
 

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Sounds like they mistakenly use the speed sense wire as one of the right rear speaker wire since it’s purple white, When it’s playing, listen if the right rear speaker is playing, also did you have this problem before you changed the radio? If not, it could also be a raw wire touching the radio or chassis while driving.
Hey guys.
Thanks for all the responses. It was the speedsense wire, and a bad data bus. It works great now. The shop had it fixed and ready to rock in about 45 minutes. Sounds great, works great. I appreciate all the help.

Luke
my mans got it :)
 
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