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Haha it just doesn't stop.

So everything was working fine, except the rear right speakers was sounding like this.

So I took the door apart to double check that everything was wired properly.
Then I tried powering different speakers from the same output on the amplifier. Sure enough, this horrible crackling, or I'm not sure how you'd call it, moved to a different speaker.
So I was pretty certain the amp output was bad...the pioneer one.
But now that it looks like I've solved the whine problem, I thought I'll try that infinity amplifier that I initially had, REF-704A.

Connected this app, and the rear right speaker was sounding fine.
So to me it confirmed that the pioneer amp was bad, or had bad output on channel B.

The only problem now, THE WHINE CAME BACK...With this infinity amp REF-704A

Geez looks like both amps are cooked and I need to order a third amp nowo_O
Please, please, tell me you're not running factory wiring to the speakers! If you're not, bypass/yank that problem speaker wire and see if it's shorted somewhere.

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Haha of course I'm not running stock wires.
My system is 100% aftermarket. I don't have a single components, including wiring, that's still from my old system.

Headunit is powered by original wiring in the car lol. Then 6 rcas go to the trunk. 2 for sub amp, 4 for speaker amp. Then from the amp I got newly installed wires running to each crossover box in the door, which then powers both speakers and tweeters. Both amps powered directly from the battery and grounded in the trunk. For Headunit ground, I ran an extra wire directly from battery negative post.

The way I know the amp is bad and not the speaker, is that I tried powering this speaker from different channels of the amp, and it sounded fine. I also tried powering the 3 remaining speakers from this channel, and each speaker would have this problem.
Then I also swapped back to Infinity ref 704 amp, and that noise also disappeared.
However infinity amp has this whine that is the source of this thread. On pioneer, I was somehow able to get rid of this whine.

Well I ordered a third amp and a brand new alternator, so will see how that goes
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
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I just want to post these pictures so the question of bad ground is dealt with once and for all. I used 0 gauge 40 inch wire to run from main ground point to disconnect switch. Then 40 inches 4 gauge back from the switch to battery ground.
The ground for the amp comes from the same place where the battery is grounded on the main ground in the trunk. Then this ground splits in 2 to provide ground to both amps.
I used a professional crimping tool for terminals, you couldn't rip the terminals off the wires if you tried...all terminals and connection points sanded with sandpaper until shiny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
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The purpose of the ground switch is to be able to cut off power to the vehicle for various reasons. Once everything is installed in the trunk, the battery is highly unaccessible.
There's even a compressor bolted overtop. So if the car needd to sit for a week or two, I don't need to disconnect the battery, I just turn the switch.
 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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View attachment 338509
View attachment 338508

The purpose of the ground switch is to be able to cut off power to the vehicle for various reasons. Once everything is installed in the trunk, the battery is highly unaccessible.
There's even a compressor bolted overtop. So if the car needd to sit for a week or two, I don't need to disconnect the battery, I just turn the switch.
Ahhh I see
 

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As to not waste your time with details I'll jump into the issue and what I tried so far.

Whining gets was worse when revving the engine. I understand it's called alternator whine.

Unplugging rca cables at the amp for front and rear speakers removes the whine.

Connecting my phone via Y cable to the amp eliminates the whine.

Both amps (for sub and speakers) grounded at the same chassis ground.

I tried 2 different headunits, no difference.

I tried powering one speaker directly from the headunit and not the amp - no noise.

Headunit is grounded into the metal bar under the dash.

I tried inline noise isolator filter between headunit and its power supply
No change at all
Axxess AX-ANR1000 Inline Power Noise Filter Axxess AX-ANR1000 Inline Power Noise Filter : Amazon.ca: Electronics

Tried 4 Farad power capacitor

Tried 3 rca noise isolator filters on amp side ams headunit side.

Connecting a filter just for rear or front rca cables reduces the whine. But plugging a noise isolator filter on both front and rear rca's, the noise is way worse than plugging only one filter.

I'm probably forgetting some stuff I tried.

I'm literally losing my mind over this and it's driving me crazy:)

My system is completely separate from stock audio.
One sub, 2 amps, 4 speakers and tweeters, 4 crossovers, headunit. All expensive quality components.
Power is through 0 gauge wire.

Tried grounding the amps on the battery negative instead of the body, no change. Rca cables are all high quality.

I tried powering one crossover directly from the headunit, just using wires from the pin plug, not rca.
This way there was no noise for that speaker and tweeters!

Tried grounding headunit rca female grounds directly to the headunit chassis.

I'm at a loss what could be the problem...
I had this problem and the problem was that 1 tweet was on 0db on the crossover and the other on +3 db, also any kind of noise was totally removed after installing dsp
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
I think I uploaded too many pictures, they didn't all load. Should've been 10 pictures per post.
Anyways, battery fully charged, 13.2v. Battery maintainer indicated full charge as well.
Battery less than a year new, haven't driven the car more than 50 km since.
Putting in brand new bosch alternator from rock auto.
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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
I had this problem and the problem was that 1 tweet was on 0db on the crossover and the other on +3 db, also any kind of noise was totally removed after installing dsp
Now this is interesting!
My 4 crossovers also have this 3db button!
I broke one of these buttons on one of the crossovers! My friend told me not to worry about it! So I don't know if the button was pressed on unpressed when it broke!
What DSP did you get?
I'm wondering if the problem is cause by mismatch of those buttons on different crossovers. I.e. if some are set to +3 and some are set to 0. Or just the fact of having them pressed for +3db will make noise?
 

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Now this is interesting!
My 4 crossovers also have this 3db button!
I broke one of these buttons on one of the crossovers! My friend told me not to worry about it! So I don't know if the button was pressed on unpressed when it broke!
What DSP did you get?
I'm wondering if the problem is cause by mismatch of those buttons on different crossovers. I.e. if some are set to +3 and some are set to 0. Or just the fact of having them pressed for +3db will make noise?
definatelly is the crossover button, as I said problem, at the shop they suspected all kind of stuff till I fixed it myself in 3 seconds

my dsp is audison bit ten, 250€ pretty cheap, plan to upgrade tu audison bit 8.9
 

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definatelly is the crossover button, as I said problem, at the shop they suspected all kind of stuff till I fixed it myself in 3 seconds

my dsp is audison bit ten, 250€ pretty cheap, plan to upgrade tu audison bit 8.9

Also, if your front tweet (sorry didn't read the thread) is with the broken db swich, try swiching the other one on +3 if now is on 0 or on 0 if now is on +3 and that way you don't have mismach, and also check back tweeters if they are on the same db , I don't think it matters if is 0 or +3 but I would recomand 0 for lower noise as most of white noise usually come from tweeters and putting them on 0 eliminate lots of noise (I speak from personal problems not as a tehnician in any way)
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Changed the alternator, installed new amp.
About to test it all.
But first before I connect the audio system, I want to test AC current with the new amp, to see if it even changed.
Cleaned up my install a bit. Not as messy but far from perfect. Once I get it working I'll make it neat
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Should I adjust anything here before turning on the system?
 

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I'd advise you not to mount your amps to the subwoofer especially "budget" amps. The vibration will shake the internals loose and you'll be returning back to Amazon in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Thanks I took it off the sub.

I don't think anything was wrong with the alternator.
Old alternator was showing 0.227 before the filter and 0.116 after the filter.
On battery terminal it was 0.017 A/C

New alternator is showing 0.187 before the filter, 0.092 after the filter, and 0.015 at the battery. These jump a bit, highest on battery was showing 0.024

At ignition wires maybe it's a bit high, 0.055 AC. I can install a small filter, as this is where the headunit gets power. I remember I installed a filter before, and it dropped to 0.
I guess time to test the amp
 
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