I dunno but whatever that little line is on the left side…I tried to wipe it off my screen more times than I care to admit. lol

 

That's the Z-Axis

 

The other option is get them 3D printed in Carbon Nylon as a single structure.

I believe HDPE is more dense and has a lower resonance, although Carbon Nylon would be harder.

I also plan to use threaded inserts for mounting the drivers.

Which way would you go about it?

3D printed objects can be denser that wood, and those can be printed with solid fill to make them even more dense than wood. Threaded inserts can be placed in prints with a solder iron.

I'm not sure if you need to go carbon nylon or just ABS for those.

 

Did mine out of PC-CF. 25% Infill with Infill line multiplier of 2. Equates to 50% Infill but uses less filament and is stronger. I also used 8 wall lines which came out to about 5mm. I picked PC-CF as it's stiffer than nylon. I was able to use heatset inserts without issue.

 

Did mine out of PC-CF. 25% Infill with Infill line multiplier of 2. Equates to 50% Infill but uses less filament and is stronger. I also used 8 wall lines which came out to about 5mm. I picked PC-CF as it's stiffer than nylon. I was able to use heatset inserts without issue.

What infill design did you go with? Is there much of a difference?

I only just found out that 3D prints are hollow, I thought they were solid 😅

 

If you can't get them machined out from someone like DeLander out of UHMW, or router table them from HDPE, print in Nylon,PC-CF,ABS/ASA, etc with a decent infill.

This is where I shill both mine and DeLanders services.

 

3D prints, especialy ABS can easly warp on the bottom if lack of proper care is taken with poor 3D printer setup. Before prints check who is doing it and how.
In my opinion wood is least material that should be in the car but hey its the easy one for custom jobs.
For HDPE I would weld the stacks together. Retail wise hardly anything will last bonded to HDPE.

 

I wanna say I used cubic or triangle. I tend to change up the design depending on what I am printing and what orientation I am printing. Like any structure, infill design can be used to increase the strength of what is being printed. 3D prints can be solid (the 6.5" adapters I made are almost solid), but it's unnecessary, uses a lot of filament, and can take literally days depending on the size of the print. Good CF infused filament can be expensive, $50-70 per .5kg role or more. My big adapters took roughly 300grams of PC-CF. I used Priline PC-CF which is about $55 per 1kg role. It's more of a poly-carbonate blend as it doesn't have the strength or temperature resistance of true poly-carbonate, but it's really close and prints easily without warping. I'll need to buy new build plates after this as the stuff sticks so well, it is slowing removing layers of my PEI sheet. I made some adapters out of ASA which is like ABS, but I found the material is a little soft, similar the HDPE. Nylon is better, but still not as stiff as PLA, PETG, or PC. Now you can go crazy and get Nylon CF25, that stuff is what they call Black Aluminum. Extremely strong and is meant to be an aluminum alternative. I wanted stiff with high temperature persistence and easy to print without warping, so I chose the Priline Filament. I have watched more videos on filament than is probably healthy.

 

PA-CF Carbon Fiber Nylon

Bambu PA-CF is a family of Bambu 3D printing engineering filaments, mainly consisting of PA6, PA12 and carbon fiber. PA12 helps to reduce water absorption, while PA6 helps to improve stiffness, strength, and temperature resistance. Bambu PA-CF mixes the two in optimal proportions, helping to...

au.store.bambulab.com

That’s the Carbon Nylon my guy would most likely use. How does it look to you?

 

What speakers are these for and how thick are they?

 

Purifi PTT6.5X. Spacers are 35mm total thickness

 

Bambu’s PC-CF, along with their other filaments, have LOADs of low modifier… not that it’s bad but I imagine it’s not as strong as other PC-Cf filaments. Bambu doesn’t upload proper specs either iirc

 

So I was looking at the sheet for that filament and noticed the glass transition temp for the Bamboo filament is quite low for a nylon. 60c is closer to PLA than a true Nylon. Nylon should be in the 110c range. 60c is not adequate for vehicle use. PETG is about the minimum I would use in some cased and it has a glass transition temp of 81c.

Here is Polymaker's PLA properties and I noticed that Polymakers PA-CF is just as bad as the Bamboo filament. The PA12-CF is much better.

 

Yeah i feel 3D printing is the way forward here, with the right filament

 

I like that you can make virtually any shape you want, any size you want, and once design is done, set it and forget it while working on something else.

 

hygroscopic was the word I was trying to use, but spell check didn't like it.

 

So it absorbs water, that’s not a good thing..
Or is it not enough to be of any concern inside a wet car door?

 

Is using acrylic an option? I've done my fair share of designing and 3d printing adapters/speaker brackets, but it still doesn't compare to machining something out of solid material. My last job I was a design engineer at a cabinet shop and I got to play with the CNC after hours... acrylic seemed to be the one of the best options when I was making adapters. Especially since it can be drilled and tapped. Just my 2 cents.

 

acrylic is similar poly-carbonate. Both are stiff and can be more brittle than nylon, but poly is stronger than acrylic.

 

I honestly don't know why there is this much thought going into the material, it really doesn't matter. You're making a ring to adapt a speaker to the door opening. You could probably use PLA and get away with it but every day ABS is fine, you don't even need ASA or UV resistance because it's in a door.

I mean, use whatever material you want, I just don't think it matters that much for his use case.

 

This is a classic case of analysis paralysis. Use HDPE, ABS, or Acrylic and call it a day. Not to mention, you can have the adapters finished in <30 mins with a router rather than hours or days with a printer.

What is the justification for printing over more traditional means? Do you not have a router?

 

This is a classic case of analysis paralysis. Use HDPE, ABS, or Acrylic and call it a day. Not to mention, you can have the adapters finished in <30 mins with a router rather than hours or days with a printer.







What is the justification for printing over more traditional means? Do you not have a router?

Less messy, more material choices, more precise cuts without needing a bunch of $30 bits, and best of all. More fun.

 

Jig saw will work just fine if they're not visible...

 

For printing w/ removable supports, Snapmaker J1, some other IDEX model or Bambu X1 Carbon w/ AMS? Feel free to DM if you like. Looking for a tool, not a project...

 

I wouldn't use any 3d printed speaker mounting baffle , I have a 3d printer and all types of different Nylon + CF , polycarbonate + CF and I would not print a Speaker mount with them as they are all very very hydroscopic and will loose their mechanical strength over time.

If you have a router just do it out of quality birch ply , cant be beat for solidness and strength and I also think this contributes to the amazing bass I get from my 6.5" door speakers , this is what I did over 3 years ago with just a couple of coats of paint and they still function and look like new , no water issues at all , for me this is the only correct way to do it.

 

I wouldn't use any 3d printed speaker mounting baffle , I have a 3d printer and all types of different Nylon + CF , polycarbonate + CF and I would not print a Speaker mount with them as they are all very very hydroscopic and will loose their mechanical strength over time.

I will humbly disagree with this statement. We all have our methods, you would not use 3D printed parts, I would not use wood of any type.

 

Depends on infill amount and type, as well as how thick you make the infil. You reach diminishing returns for most applications after a certain amount... and full infill can lengthen the time of a print quite a lot unless you have a big nozzle... that reduces how accurate the print will be though.

 

I feel like if you have a large mount or baffle that it should be at least as dense as plywood ideally, but maybe some could be made up via thickness. If I was spending the time to do it I would probably just wait for the longer print time and use more material to increase the density.

 

Grabbed this random STL off of thingiverse for a 2010-2015 Kia Soul.

50% Cubic Infil = ~4 hours print time - 203g of filament
100% Infil = ~6 hours of print time - 337g of filament

Not as bad a difference as I expected to be honest, but that could change if this were a beefier adapter, and every printer prints different.

 

Your printer prints at lightning speed, Much quicker than mine.

 

and this is on normal mode, there's a sport and ludacris mode as well.. Between this and the fact that I have to plug it in, I basically have a Tesla, without the headache of owning a piece of crap

 

Out of curiosity, how long would it take you to print this? .24 layer height, .4 lines, 8 walls, 5 top and bottom, 25% cubic infill with 2x infill multiplier

Remove the .txt from the file name.

 

Well I truly believe that because my spacers are solid quality birch ply that it does help improve on the bass they output , any speaker needs to be mounted as solidly as possible , even if you print at 100% infill no 3D print filament would come close to birch ply.
And yes MDF I would not let anywhere near a door install due to water problems but birch ply is totally different , I have even left a small piece outside in the weather from when I made my mounting rings 3 years ago and it's still in perfect shape.

 

Use what you're comfortable with and what has proven to work for you. I have my opinion, you have yours, and everyone else has theirs. All we can do is give ours to the OP and who's opinions he chooses to take it totally up to him.

 

This. I use ASA (basically ABS) for all the prints related to my car, including speaker mounts. Very sturdy, can withstand all of the interior heat, and won't decay from UV (not that that is a concern in a car, but still)

 

Well if you are getting a 3d printer then be prepared for the hours upon hours of watching it and tinkering , I think that's all I did for the first 2 years of ownership , now I finally only print stuff that I actually need and will use.

 

Both of us have them hah. My current one has been better than the markforged I used to own

 

Oh and by the way I have been through all the slicing software multiple times over the years and I always end up back with Ultimaker Cura as it has always given me the best print quality and the most reliable prints

Yes I too was going to build a Voron but I'm over it now and don't want to waste anymore money on 3D printing , the core XY I have will do..

 

Just start it before you go to bed and it will be done in the morning? I had looked at 3d printers (ones from monoprice) and it just seems like a lot to just get started.

Ultimately I think the density and resonance of a material (along with its required resistance to water and temp of course) are some of the key factors that affect how good of an adapter it makes.