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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So when I mount the speaker to the baffle with a 1/8 layer of closed cell foam in between, I notice a very slight curvature forming in the areas between the mounting screws around the basket - it's like the 1/8 is pushing back slightly. am i at risk of warping the basket? should i mount to a perfectly flat surface?

the speaker is an Image Dynamics X65
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
alright, pulled off the 1/8ccf - will be sanding surface flat and smooth. just wondering what I'll use to seal it now. thinking maybe using this clay/putty bar i've seen in the electrical supply aisle at lowes, but worried about it melting all over in the summer.
 

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That foam is simply too dense. Try to find some softer stuff in the weatherstripping section of home depot or lowes. It'll compress easier and not distort the speaker basket. And still seal.
 

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Open cell, it will compress, its all I use. Even some of that you have to screw it down slow to let the air get out. I've used that finger caulk too, comes in a roll like rope. It is sort of like clay and should be good for various temps since its for windows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Open cell, it will compress, its all I use. Even some of that you have to screw it down slow to let the air get out. I've used that finger caulk too, comes in a roll like rope. It is sort of like clay and should be good for various temps since its for windows.
dang all they had for open cell was this huge stuff: Shop M-D Building Products 3-1/2'L x 1-1/4"W Gray Open-Cell Foam Air Conditioner Weather Strip at Lowes.com

so i got this , but in the 3/16 size: Shop M-D Building Products 17'L x 3/8"W Gray Closed-Cell Foam Window Weather Strip at Lowes.com

still compresses too thick i think....about as much as the other stuuf i have


also got a brick of this: Shop IDEAL 1 Lb. Block Duct Seal at Lowes.com

seems kinda messy, but maybe it'll work as long as it doesn't push back on the basket. can't find the melting specs on the site...but i'll be conservative enough with the application it might not matter.
 

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The stuff I have is called rope caulk, got it at Menards. Its like rope putty a little smaller than a pencil in a roll. It is slightly sticky, moldable, and comes off fairly easily. Its for windows in the winter you push it into the cracks and it peels off in the spring, like if you live in an apartment/old house windows/etc. It is similar to clay sort of.

Otherwise I use truck topper foam tape from same place, its like this
Thermwell V447H Frost King Foam Tape Gray1 1/4 By 3/16 By 30 Ft #077578012742 at HardwareAndTools.com
I cut it to width, or you can buy the door seal that is narrow already and in various sizes. Menards has a bunch of different sizes. The 3/16 is almost too much for a sub but ok if you screw it down slowly, thinner door stuff is a little faster. If you can squeeze it fast to nothing with your finger that is the stuff to use, however I like the gray stuff like the topper foam because it rebounds a lot better thus making a great seal...so I make do with more careful use of it. It will compress to very thin just not fast, seems the bubbles in it are very fine. The closed does not want to crush, you can tell.
Duck 35' Rope Caulk / Roll Putty
 

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The stuff I have is called rope caulk, got it at Menards. Its like rope putty a little smaller than a pencil in a roll. It is slightly sticky, moldable, and comes off fairly easily. Its for windows in the winter you push it into the cracks and it peels off in the spring, like if you live in an apartment/old house windows/etc. It is similar to clay sort of.

Otherwise I use truck topper foam tape from same place, its like this
Thermwell V447H Frost King Foam Tape Gray1 1/4 By 3/16 By 30 Ft #077578012742 at HardwareAndTools.com
I cut it to width, or you can buy the door seal that is narrow already and in various sizes. Menards has a bunch of different sizes. The 3/16 is almost too much for a sub but ok if you screw it down slowly, thinner door stuff is a little faster. If you can squeeze it fast to nothing with your finger that is the stuff to use, however I like the gray stuff like the topper foam because it rebounds a lot better thus making a great seal...so I make do with more careful use of it. It will compress to very thin just not fast, seems the bubbles in it are very fine. The closed does not want to crush, you can tell.
Duck 35' Rope Caulk / Roll Putty
^^x2

I use Mortite Caulking cord. It's $6.00 at Home Depot. I use it to seal my subs as well as my other drivers. It's very moldable and soft and cleans off easily.

Find a Thermwell Products 90 Ft. Weatherstrip and Caulking Cord (382841) from The Home Depot
 

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alright, pulled off the 1/8ccf - will be sanding surface flat and smooth. just wondering what I'll use to seal it now. thinking maybe using this clay/putty bar i've seen in the electrical supply aisle at lowes, but worried about it melting all over in the summer.
Smear a thin smooth layer of silicone sealant around the hole and let it dry.
 

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I used 3M strip caulk... Never again. It worked great for sealing the speaker, but If you need to remove the driver, and clean it off... Not so good.
I will defiantly try a different route next time...
 

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I use that gray foam for anything I can, when I pull an IB baffle off the car or sub out of a hole it sticks but comes loose. No cleanup (if you use it on the part you remove lol), great seal, can even double it up if you have a poor fit on a baffle to the car. It also damps metal and gets rid of rattles. I stripe panels with it such as the one that closes off my rear deck. That stuff almost acts like memory foam.

I like silicone, but its stinky and messy. If you lay a bead free it better be exactly right.
 

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I like silicone, but its stinky and messy. If you lay a bead free it better be exactly right.
No exactness necessary. all it takes if you have a flat baffle is a thin layer so spread it with a finger or a spreader and let dry. Yes messy but the speaker will be clean and perfect once removed and it seals very well.

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No exactness necessary. all it takes if you have a flat baffle is a thin layer so spread it with a finger or a spreader and let dry. Yes messy but the speaker will be clean and perfect once removed and it seals very well.

Eric
I'm thinking of laying silicone around the baffle, cutting out a waxpaper ring and laying it onto the silicone (maybe with some mold release wiped onto the wax paper), then laying the woofer carefully onto the waxpaper so it presses the silicone down and letting it dry like that. then once it's dry, i'd trim the excess silicone, take the driver out, peel the wax paper, and be left with a perfect silicone gasket. be pretty sweet if it worked out.
 

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No exactness necessary. all it takes if you have a flat baffle is a thin layer so spread it with a finger or a spreader and let dry. Yes messy but the speaker will be clean and perfect once removed and it seals very well.

Eric
I'll try it next time I need that.

Sure a mold should work like that in silicone. Hard to find out what one is but urethane is like silicone but harder, its what they put car windows in with. That would be awesome stuff to make a gasket like that. You can make rope out of it. I had some super HD caulk for the house and pretty sure it was urethane. 3M 5200 is for boats, very tough stuff, that is white and the black stuff for cars is about the same. It is a lot like silicone just much tougher when dry but still like rubber.
 
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