[Cozmo]

I come here in desperation! I am not an expert. My knowledge of mobile electronics is extremely limited and blurred with lies. I like excellent quality sound and I won't settle for less.

I currently own 2 JL audio C5 650 components powered by a 300/2 JL amp (V1 I think)

2 JL w3's in an H.O. Wedge box powered by a 500/1 JL amp (v1 I think)

I recently paid just under $1000 for LABOR! to have this installed. I knew it was too much but I was under the impression I was dealing with a very professional company who would back up their work...
That was a month ago.
Before I drove off the lot I noticed a whine in the right front (like a teapot whistle that increased in pitch and volume over time the speaker was powered) When I mentioned it to the installer he said that because I was using the factory head unit some noise was unavoidable and that he hadn't noticed it.

last week I could smell something burning and i turned the volume very low while driving, a few minutes later I heard a pop from the right front speaker and then the tweeter started sounding very scratchy. The woofer started producing a more audible whine of varying pitch. (still making that sound now)

I switched the left to right outputs from the amp to see what would happen. The scratchy sound is now in the left tweeter and the right speaker (woofer piece of component) still makes that variable pitch whine.

Also, I have a CD with various frequencies that I used to to try to isolate the sounds.
-The variable whine seems to happen no matter what volume or frequency is being sent from the head unit.
-The tweeter still sounds very scratchy, particularly from the right (used to be left before i switched the outputs)
-The tweeter seems to be playing very low frequency sounds (35 hz) which i thought the component's crossover should be blocking.

I told the installer I thought the 300/2 sounded better at a "high pass" setting around 130hz and he said "no it should be set to full range"

Any ideas on what the hell has happened and why my system sounds like crap (with the exception of the bass which is still great) I have a few theories but i'd love to hear from an expert.

Thanks in advance!

 

[9mmmac]

Wow. That sucks. The only way to avoid that crap is learn to DIY. Not to rub it in, but that money could have been saved, or used to buy more stuff.

Since the problem seems to move as you move the inputs, I'd guess something in the amp is bad. I'd disconnect power ASAP and see about some sort of warranty service. Did you buy the stuff at the shop? Some places will take your money for an install, but do a ****ty job if you didn't buy it from them.

I also wouldn't buy the BS about factory head units and the noise being "unavoidable". JL crows about the differential inputs on their amps just to avoid such a situation.

A burning smell is ALWAYS a Bad Sign in the car audio field. Can you find the crossovers? A look or sniff test should give you some more information. If a crossover also went tits up, they can be replaced fairly easily; don't know about the price.

If you don't trust the rest of the install, you'll have to inspect every inch of every wire- starting at the battery.

1. At least 4 ga. wiring, with a fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery. Look for a rubber grommet in your firewall. If it's missing (just a hole in the metal) you'll need one installed chop-chop.

2. The amp should be securely mounted, as in screwed to something with all 4 screws, and that something should also be securely mounted to something. Velcro or double sided tape does not count.

3. 16 ga. speaker wire at a minimum. It may or may not be printed on the jacket wiring. Check to see that they have observed consent polarity across all terminals, i.e. "striped wire side is the (-) hookup".

4. Check for proper grounding. (-) wire should be same size as power wire or bigger. It should be short (2-3 ft. MAX) and terminate in a big-ass ring under a BIG bolt. That BAR under the BAB should be sanded to bare metal and then repainted. Bare wire under a seat mounting bolt won't cut it.

5. Find your crossovers. Look under the rear seat, or under the driver/pass. seats. You'll have 1 crossover per side, with an input (from the amp) and two outputs- 1 for the woofer and 1 for the tweeter. Sniff. Observe. These should also be securely mounted as above. Try to discern if they have kept up with the polarity and marking conventions established at the amp hookups. If the crossovers are mounted inside the door, you have a serious problem- they need to be relocated inside, and wire re-run. BTW, try to find the speaker wire and how it exits the doorjambs and goes into the actual door. The best way is to keep it inside the factory wiring tubing.

If anything looks fishy, post up some big, bright and IN FOCUS pics.

It's up to you how you want to handle the shop that did your install.

 

[trojan fan]

That sucks....take it all out and start over...good luck

 

[Brian10962001]

Full range huh... Yeah he's a joke. He's probably going to try to blame you at this point saying "well it's all tampered with". As they asked earlier, did you purchase the equipment from the same place, or was it bought elsewhere? That burning smell was your money going up in smoke, something is busted. The whine may also be because somthing wasn't done right. Usually an alternator whine won't pick a side!

 

[Chaos]

Holy crap! Even if you did bring in your own gear, I'm pretty surprised that they had the audacity to charge that much for 2 pair + 2 amps + subs in a pre-fab box unless there was a lot of custom work done to the interior, which doesn't sound like the case.

- There is no reason why you should be getting alternator whine with those amps on any signal, OEM or not. A bad ground for the amps sounds like a very likely issue with this install.

- Did they use a LOC to adapt the OEM signal to RCA? If so, that could also be a source of noise. FYI, JL amps don't even need converters - it even says so right in the manual (that's what the 'input sensitivity hi/low switch is for)

- There is no way that a tweeter is playing 35 hz, but it is possible that the passive x-overs are not connected properly, and that you have at least one blown tweeter as a result. It could also be that the gain on the amp was just set too high, and it was blown by distortion.

- Of course the highs amp should have the HPF turned on & set to ~100hz, that's what it's there for!



I would take it back and ask to speak with the management. At the very least, they should at least be liable for checking that all of their connections are good for no charge.

 

[BowDown]

Wow this really sucks man. Wonder if we have any members out that way that could at least take a look at the setup? $1k in labor is nuts.

Start with the management at the shop, then maybe some pics of how everything is installed could shed some light.

 

[Jersey Strong]

I know how that feels man.
First thing is first friend; you need to BBB their azzes. Based on what you said the equipment failure is entirely due to a bad install. Reach out to the Better Business Bureau as this is what they are there for. They will definitely help rectify the issue in one way shape or form. And if for some reason they try to snake their way out of it, BBB will have them listed and complains against them. So at least you know that you are potentially responsible for saving another person from the same fate.

As far as the tweeter goes you can send it back to JL for some warranty work or even were you bought them. JL is good and will do best to accommodate you. Obviously at the end of the day your installer effed it all up, so whatever JL can do is a gift.

I went through some similar stuff recently, it was difficult and frustrating. But you have to be patient smart and calculated when dealing with crooks.
Search around on the forum, members are kind enough to help most of the times. For instance I found DON here in New Jersey and boy did he make everything alright.

Again dude, chin up and go crack some skulls get them were it hurts their reputation. You paid a adequate amount of money and the service just wasn’t there. Everyone works hard for their money and you have the right to bust some heads over this.

 

[BowDown]

This is true. Just stick to the facts.. you don't need to know exactly how it works and what's wrong. That's their job. Just say to the manager. I paid you x amount of cash for a working system that hasn't been right since day 1, and I want the issues addressed.

 

[quietfly]

Damn that sucks!!! hope they end up fixing what they screwed up.

 

[Jersey Strong]

Here is the link for your area.

Happy Complaining!!!!!!!!!!

Consumer Compaints and Reviews - Worcester BBB

 

[BowDown]

BBB is a joke for the most part unless the business is a paid member. Otherwise most people don't check BBB until they have a problem.

 

[Jersey Strong]

BBB is a joke for the most part unless the business is a paid member. Otherwise most people don't check BBB until they have a problem.

Thanks for the super valuable input champ.

 

[BowDown]

Thanks for the super valuable input champ.

Tis the truth though. Not trying to get the guys hopes up. Sometimes you just gotta look out for number 1 and take things into your own hands.

 

[Jersey Strong]

Tis the truth though. Not trying to get the guys hopes up. Sometimes you just gotta look out for number 1 and take things into your own hands.

A fellow forum member is feeling down due to the current circumstances. Rather than providing some sort of positive optimism or a suggestion for the guy, you discredit what has been put out there, so the guy feels totally helpless. Would you care to explain what the BBB had done to you that led you to the conclusion that they are a joke?

 

[BowDown]

I'm not discrediting anything the guy is doing... I would do the same thing. I personally have not needed such services.. but I have witnessed friends/family that have. Also quick search on the net will give ya all the info you need.

 

[Jersey Strong]

I'm not discrediting anything the guy is doing... I would do the same thing. I personally have not needed such services.. but I have witnessed friends/family that have. Also quick search on the net will give ya all the info you need.

I see....

I have personally filed a complaint with them on two occasions. Both times they have yielded positive results. Thus I offer them as a potential solution from personal experience. Different people with different explanations of the situations can yield variable results. However, one should always look for reviews or websites that flag companies before services such as construction, auto related and so on. Always do your homework before forking any money over to anyone for services.

 

[rexroadj]

Actually Bowdown did give some good advice already!!!
#1. The idea that someone local (forum member) might be able to help out: this could be the best and easiest solution! I know the area well and there are some shady shops out there. Who's to say they can even fix it!

#2. He is %100 correct about the BBB! How do I know? For starters a good friend works for them. I also had an issue a while back that I tried to get resolved via the BBB and it was a cluster ****! IMO its not worth the time you have to spend?

Cozmo: where did you go
There are a few good guys out in your neck of the woods!

 

[Jersey Strong]

Reading fail on my part......

I guess diffrent folks diffrent strokes. Does the BBB pay well? Silly question I am aware.

 

[rexroadj]

Reading fail on my part......

I guess diffrent folks diffrent strokes. Does the BBB pay well? Silly question I am aware.

Not sure? I never asked. I dont think the position she is in demands a great payscale. She is a claims advisor or something to that nature?

I am glad you had luck with them though! I honestly have heard VERY few success story's with them.
I do think if the audio shop owner cares (to which he probably does not it could at least be a decent threat?

 

[rexroadj]

and dont get me wrong.... Everything he can do will help. Cant hurt to call them and see? Any option is a helpful one