[Valdemar]

RCA Run to the back. I am running it under the rear deck through the grommets.

unfortunately, I broke quite a few of these rear jump seat bracket bolts, so I'll seal them up and leave them alone.

These are mockups for the subwoofer enclosure's feet.

deadening rear wall

Rivnuts in rear brace for securing the enclosure and what not

Quarter panel deadening

The trim panels themselves are also deadened.

The barrier around the rear quarter panels is a pain.
In case you needed a random way to put nice round holes in mlv, a step drill works great if you deburr the opposite side with the same bit.

 

[Valdemar]

Like so

How I mounted the barrier back there

This is how I am transferring all the mounting holes to the barrier. There are definitely gaps I'd like sealed but you can only do so much.

I've also decoupled as many panels as possible

 

[LimpCroissaint]

Man.. You're going all in on this one, looking good!

 

[Valdemar]

Thanks! its taking quite a while. I'm lucky enough to have people around me giving me rides and what not. hoping to get the truck driveable again today.

Here is the rear ground location, sanded under the ccf

Covered with butyl, 360

This is one way i transfer patterns from the truck to MLV

Finished Barrier. This phase was such a pain!

a little preview for the kick hardware. def not proud of the prints right now, but i suspect this will improve with time.

Ideas and suggestions for the custom stuff are welcome

 

[KrautNotRice]

Holy moly...

 

[LimpCroissaint]

It looks like it could use a tad bit more sanding under your main ground? I like to REALLY get mine down to bare metal within like an inch all the way around the terminal. That's what I like to do anyway.

 

[Valdemar]

It looks like it could use a tad bit more sanding under your main ground? I like to REALLY get mine down to bare metal within like an inch all the way around the terminal. That's what I like to do anyway.

Funny you mention that! As soon as I finished the barrier and coated the main ground with terminal protector, I found my sander. I'll have to keep that in mind for next time!

Next to the sander in the pic above, you can see the hardware mounting the router table to my bench top. I'll have to upload pics on the actual bench build at some point in the tools section of diyma.

Here is a legend I used while I was wiring up in the cab

Here is the auxiliary battery. I got it at a dope price from Casey's Custom Audio in Rogers, AR

We got tired of waiting on the lazy owner to build a frame for the thai bag, so we said:

Mummify Flight Attendant GIF - Mummify Flight Attendant Duct Tape - Discover & Share GIFs

Click to view the GIF

tenor.com

Also, I've uploaded pics of the ranger in the readme post.

 

[Valdemar]

So we found the center dome light LED!

Also got the AC recharged today.

Put some decals on!

That's it for today. Most of the day was taken up cleaning the garage.

 

[LimpCroissaint]

Nice! How much did it cost you to get your ac recharged?

 

[Valdemar]

Nice! How much did it cost you to get your ac recharged?

It cost me 140 for it to be hooked up to the diagnostic machine and refilled. I tried to fill it myself and that didnt work, and in the arkansas heat it was definitely worth it.

So I had covid not too long ago while working on the truck. long story short, I couldnt smell anything for a while. It was nice while working with the vynil cement cause its really strong. Anyway, the truck definitely smells funky. I get my sense of smell back randomly and I can definitely smell the install.

It is rather quiet. Most of the sound right now comes from the windows and the doors since they are bare right now. When it rains, most of the sound comes from the windshield and its a trip.

A few things I've noticed driving around that need fixed:

Some of the CCF sticks out in various places and its really annoying.
The carpet definitely doesnt like the extra layers, I'll have to cut and patch in several areas
The CeNet adapter keeps falling behind the glove box when i open it
The gas pedal is a little tight. less is more here.
I've broken a few clips, so I'll need to go replace them at the junkyard.
The HIDs are being a pain

 

[Valdemar]

Door time!

I started by ordering 6x8 to 6.5 adapters, but they were too tight for my drivers. I transferred that adapter shape to random thin/disposable wood/fiberboard (donated materials) and modified it using the driver's grill/trim ring

Transferring to 3/16" ABS so i dont waste cutting board

now that i have a sturdier template, I can transfer that to the cutting boards

Coupled and Countersunk. double sided tape and low stepover climb cuts are your friend. I wish I could adjust my cutting tool's speed. I KNOW my surface footage is off, because its the same for every material that touches the router table.

Set the stops once and you're good! these countersink bits save me quite a bit of time. They were cheap too!

double checking hole depth with the intended hardware so it doesnt interfere with the driver flange. This is technically wrong since its a countersink tool that has passed its usable range, and I'm slapping a flat washer and an m3 bolt through it. Good enough is good enough!

transfer markings and transfer punch pilots

Makita makes quick work of these holes, even when I lost my second step drill bit.

I had to resist the temptation to cut the center of the baffle pattern out of the door frame's sheet metal.

 

[Valdemar]

Deburring from the inside of a door is troublesome.

6-32 rivnuts. I'm bolting through the adapter and woofer into this rivnut. Trying to keep the woofer mount hardware consistent (SS)

here are the transfer bits i use. technically i think they are "pilot" or flush bits but this is the OCP garage. transfer bits it is.

I love making chips.

notice the chamfer location...

widened up the holes that dont have any panel behind them and glued uncompressed rivuts in lieu of t-nuts because these had a smaller footprint and were easier to deal with. Good ole super glue!

I also backed it up with gorilla glue just in case. made sure not to get any on the chamfer.

 

[Valdemar]

Look at this insert/chamfer situation. all nonchalant like its not about to throw me a curveball

Butyl before adapter install

i chamfered the wrong side. doh!

and a little sweat later we have another adapter assembly in its natural habitat. a little test fit before we start cutting metal. to mount the adapter to the door skin, I am using a flat washer on the adapter csink (near side/visible). on the far side, I have the m3 bolt through the hole, a washer, a lock washer, an m3 nut and red threadlock. this part was tricky since the speaker hole flange likes to hide the small hardware. to mount the speaker to the adapter, I am using 6-32 x 3/4 or 6-32 x 1" Pan head SS machine screws (Passenger side was a little tight and needed the extra slack and pilot guiding that a longer fastener provides during install)

in hindsight, I should have removed the driver to avoid any fod in the moving assembly. whale. too late now!

hi... bye.

I like to use mylar to transfer patterns when I can. its cheap and sturdy. I used butyl to hang it in position and used a light to help light up the pattern.

transferring to this

 

[Valdemar]

I called it a day there, and wound down with some sketches.
Here is how I envision the 8" will be mounted and the flange that interfaces with the plastic door panel. I plan on using vacuum bagging to make a template for the trim panel's flange.

The alternative to this is to make an enclosure for the anarchy, which personally I think would be a fabulous time. We will see!

 

[Valdemar]

some samples of customer prints

On the way to get some materials, I stopped and got Achilles a pup cup for his 7 week birthday

If you dont know, now you know

much to Puma's contempt, I added a frame and casters to the shop's vacuum table

The casters are polyurethane, rated at 200lbs each. the frame is only thrown together, i doubt it would hold that much. I also made some 36" Saw horses and some bigger ones for large panels and such

 

[Valdemar]

These cute puppies! Achilles is only here for a few days, so he is hanging in the shop with us. Nova is teaching him how to puppy.

which involves a lot of this

while I do this:

iteration 2 of the panel. Acrylic sheet is easy enough to work with, but I wish I could control speeds and feeds on the router. I'm not sure I like the panel out of acrylic, it is brittle and I've had a few of them chip. I might transfer this to plywood and seal it with resin.

This version installs, but interferes with the window bracket as it comes down

before working on the next iteration, i decided to use the air vents as templates to make... templates. double sided/mounting tape comes in real handy for this.

 

[Valdemar]

Marking up the door for iteration 3. I am using 10-24 SS hardware and rivnuts to install the panel to the inner door skin.

Homie hanging out while I get my measurements. He's well behaved, but very much a pit.

Fitting up i3

with a half inch baffle, we just barely scrape the driver with the window bracket as it comes down. a .75" baffle ought to fix that.

I decided to use the .5" baffles behind the panel along with the new .75" baffle in front of the panel. The reason for this is to attempt to reinforce the fragile edges of the acrylic and distribute the bearing stresses around the baffle holes. I broke a whole panel today trying to drill through it too hard with a manual drill (lesson learned). You definitely have to feel and listen to the material and cutter or you'll chip an edge and it will easily propagate.

Fitting it up, its nice and heavy

No more interference!

now to transfer to the pass door and get to work on the door panel covers. This next part, im definitely winging it.

 

[Valdemar]

Made these yesterday. I decided against plexiglass when I cracked one while fitting it up. I dont want to take any chances. Transferred to .5" Birch and glued the mdf baffles to them.

Cut these prototypes out of scrap acrylic. They are for attaching .75" Binding posts to 0.5" materials

 

[lithium]

Looks good, make sure to really seal those wood baffles, unless you dont get any rain.

 

[Valdemar]

Looks good, make sure to really seal those wood baffles, unless you dont get any rain.

We get plenty of rain! I sealed them up with this gorilla waterproof and seal spray. We'll see if it works!

What I'm thinking for the grill cover flange

I have some wiggle room

I also made these terminal spacers out of CF Nylon; they are meant for .75" baffles and the new panels are .5", and the acrylic wasnt cutting it (pun intended). The surface finish is much better than the picture will reflect. The holes are 5/32 and are countersunk on the near (top) side so that the spacer can be used as a drill jig.

Making this work station for the printer and SCA unit out of 2x4s and plywood.

before sealant

gorilla glue on the t nuts