[Valdemar]

Mocking up the terminal spacer location, tbd since I'm not exactly sure what the flange looks like yet

Found an old trim ring that happened to fit just right, I'll use this as a template for the ID of my adapter plate.

mocking up the panel to see where we're at and get some final fitments before the adapter and flange get made. I'm not super proud of the curved lower edges. I'll use butyl for now, but if they rattle or leak too much, I'll add flanges or make a new baffle to fasten those edges.

This is what I'll be using to finish the new panels

Masking and the UV light I'll be using with the sunflash resin

Sealing the back of the card with film, butyl mastic sealant rope and flash tape.

What I intended for the front, before I figured out this thing leaks way too much for resin infusion.

So we went with the backup option- shop vac! technically it's "atmospheric clamping"

What it looks like with dry figerglass cloth laid up, with the equipment that wont be used.

 

[Valdemar]

Some more progress on the cards. Havent had much time to work on the truck with getting the business set up. I am using Mylar (go figure) to saturate the cloth with a scraper/spreader/squeegee and then transferring to the "mold".

Double gloving cause its just me in the shop

What the Vacuum Bagging setup looks like before we cure it outside, and the spline tool that was used to make sure we got those creases right. the purple rag is to help distribute the vacuum pressure.

Sunflash is useful. It is nice to have plenty of working time with the resin and have direct control of the curing process. The downside is that it needs UV to cure (I just roll it outside in the sunlight). Pick your poison.

Glad I made this workbench/vacuum table!

This is one of those rare instances where the first part came out better than the second one. The passenger side has a bubble/ bulge near the crease and the edges of both are too flexible, so I will still need to use the door card as a mold. 3 plies is very flimsy, 5 is rather stiff, and 6 will be the final. somewhere in between is the sweet spot I needed in this particular stage of the process. I've learned alot through this series of failures, but the panels should be salvageable.

 

[Jheitt142]

This has a been to read through, thats a ton of work!

 

[kmbkk]

Hey, I have an 03 B2300 regular cab and am planning an install in it. I’m thinking of doing kick panels as well, do you have any pics of them installed yet? TIA!

 

[NaamanF]

Ever get this finished? Where in AR?

 

[japjoe7]

Damn dude nice build!

 

[gmack7277]

Lot's of work! Let's see the finished product.

 

[ckirocz28]

Hey everyone! Here is my first attempt at a decent install since 2017. Think of this first post as a readme file. The thread will be updated as we get moving on this. This is a starting point for reference and is subject to change as there are details that are likely to be missed. I'll try and keep text to a minimum in the first few posts. I am starting with a bone stock canvas and would appreciate any and all comments

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2 door super cab as my daily. (Pics soon)
Most of what is going in came from previous installs or is already in my garage.
I don't have subs or a decent alternator right now, so the mono amp will not be installed yet.
Subwoofer suggestions welcome! Trying to keep it somewhat stealth.

Update 8/16
I have a used xspower d925 from a local shop. This will go on the rear shelf. I also have a pair of * from * that will go in a sealed box behind the seats.
End Update.

This truck is older and has some love bites. Paint is faded, a deer had beef with the door, previous owner sealed the center console shut with gap sealing foam, rear bumper is bent, no alarm, it smells funny, needs a new battery, ignition lock cylinder, door lock actuators, rear window latch and dome light assembly; there is quite a bit of work, so here we go!

HU: Clarion DRZ 9255 w ipod cable; AudioControl ACX-BT1 and Amazon Basics RCA-Aux
RCA: (QTY 2) Knu Krystal 4 channel, 6m and (QTY 2) SHCA 2-channel RCAs plus SHCA Female to Female RCA Fittings
Amps: (QTY 2) JL HD 900/5 and a GZHA 1800.1
Power Cables: Knu 0 ga OFC and Stinger 4 ga OFC; Knu 0ga Fuse holder and Knu Ring Terminals, Misc copper terminals, Knu Grounding Block
Power Distribution: T-Spec v12 Distro
Battery: Odyssey Performance with Knu Terminals
Speaker Wire: Parts Express in wall 4 conductor for kicks, 10 ga (Knu Flex) and 12 ga (Stinger pro) runs to the doors.
Kick Panels: Q-Forms Kick Panel Enclosures
CCF: 1/8" CCF, 60" x 10 yards (150 ft^2)
MLV: 1lb/ft^2 4.5'x30' (135 ft^2)
CLD: Dynamat Xtreme (36 ft^2)
Ring Adapters: Purchased for template, fabricating from Cutting boards, I suspect UHMW, HDPE or polypropylene
Alt: Mechman 320 amp, not installed yet.

Tweeter* (Kicks): Dayton AMT Mini-8 with polypropylene capacitor; starting x-over from 5khz @24db/oct slope

Mid: Morel CAM 558 (Kicks); starting x-overs from 1-5khz @24db/oct slope

Midbass (stock location): Audible Physics Arian 6.5"; starting x-overs from 80hz-1khz @12db/oct?

Midbass 2** (Inner Door Skin): Melodic Acoustic Intimid8r; starting x-overs from sub-160hz @24db/oct

*alternate: Kravchenko xbl tweeters
**If it fits where I want it to fit in the front door cavity. Alternate: Exodus Anarchy

Here's the red ranger... except not red

View attachment 308875

View attachment 308876

View attachment 308878

Where the deer hit, after it's been "patched"
View attachment 308879

and the bed

View attachment 308877

I don't know if you've acquired tweeters yet, but have a look at these, I have a set and they are VERY nice. They're SDX12's are awesome too, but they don't have any XBL^2 drivers in the midbass/midrange sizes.

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CSS LD25X 25mm Silk Dome XBL2 TweeterCreative Sound Solutions famous LD25X has returned! Finding the patented XBL² in a tweeter is rare due to the challenging quality control that is required to ensure the tweeter functions as designed but offers unique benefits over other designs. The extremely...

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