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Reason being is the HF has lower inductance.0.96mh vs 3.17.. although the HO in parallel Would be 3.17 divided by 2...still not as low as the HF single 4 ohm which is 0.96mh... not sure what to do..
 

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I’d put 1.5kw with pleasure on my 15 and it would be fine... finding an amp that does that into a 4ohm load is nigh on impossible unless it’s a 3-4kw into 1ohm mono type class d...
 

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Reason being is the HF has lower inductance.0.96mh vs 3.17.. although the HO in parallel Would be 3.17 divided by 2...still not as low as the HF single 4 ohm which is 0.96mh... not sure what to do..
The ho in parallel would be 0.56 i believe, and not 1.585 👍🏼
 

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2013 Genesis Coupe 3.8 M/T
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I have a pair of Morel UL12's that I would sell for 500 per sub, They have never been in a build, but I did buy them from a Morel Dealer, they were display subs. I paid 500 for them and selling them for what I paid. They retail for 1000. They only need 1.2 cubes, 16 lbs, 1000RMS each.
 

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The ho in parallel would be 0.56 i believe, and not 1.585 👍🏼
Wow that would be just as good af the HF. Good enough to where I wouldn’t see it reasonable to switch my Rockford 1 ohm amp with another 2 ohm amp. I would be using two of the DVC 4+4ohm HO’s to get down to a 1 ohm final load. I believe the 3.17mh listed on the spec sheet is the inductance with the coils in series if I’m not mistaken or do you think it’s 3.17mh per coil?
If it’s 3.17 in series then in theory each coil would be 1.585mh so in parallel LE would be 0.7925mh...


This is just a guess because I’ve seen other DVC subwoofers with their spec sheets listed with the coils wired in series...
 

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You have a lot of good options. I loved the old Image Dynamics that I used to have, Dayton has some great subs. To put into perspective my confidence in "entry level" subs, I am currently using a single Audio Frog G10D4. The G10D4 is 2 tiers below the GB series, and I picked one up for $99. I have it in a ported box tuned low, and I have 500 watts available for it. I wouldn't need anything more than this, the response is smooth, and needed very little EQ. I get more than enough SPL from it for music, and even enthusiastic hip-hop at 80 MPH on the highway isn't a problem.

My previous setup was a pair of Acoustic Elegance SBP 15's running IB. These subs are brilliant, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy them again, if I can run IB in the future, but the low distortion, and low inductance didn't really offer a huge advantage in my car build. Maybe if used as the low end of a pair of towers their strengths could shine, but in the car they were low passed well below what they are capable of, so that bandwidth went to waste.

Overall my point is, you don't need to spend a lot for good bass. Find 3-4 subs that meet your price point, and can handle the power you have available. Then, model them all in the enclosure size/type that you intend to use, and compare the graphs to see which one fits your goals best.
 

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Forgive me for the confusion. I wasn’t saying to go with an Eclipse sub as I did. I was merely trying to say that there are A LOT of very good subs out there that don’t get the recognition that they should. I brought up my Eclipse scenario because it was a sub I wasn’t even thinking about. It was by chance that my installer had one around that fit my application perfectly and I’m glad he pointed it out. I hope this helps!
 

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Forgive me for the confusion. I wasn’t saying to go with an Eclipse sub as I did. I was merely trying to say that there are A LOT of very good subs out there that don’t get the recognition that they should. I brought up my Eclipse scenario because it was a sub I wasn’t even thinking about. It was by chance that my installer had one around that fit my application perfectly and I’m glad he pointed it out. I hope this helps!
Also consider that loudspeaker technology hasn't changed much for 100 years. Yes we have fancy new cone materials, and some tricks to reduce distortion, and increase output, but overall speakers now aren't significantly different than they were 20 years ago. This is why there is still love for "old school" gear. Unless it's broken, an old speaker is just as good as it ever was, and plenty of old speakers can be used in the same hi-fi scenarios as a modern speaker. Considering the simplicity of a subwoofer, it's no surprise that there are plenty of great options floating around for very good prices.

As I mentioned, I would still buy another pair of SBP 15's, or some other world class subwoofers, but I will admit that most of the advantages of a speaker like that go unused in a car where the subwoofer is behind the listener, and where road noise is a much bigger issue than low frequency distortion.
 

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And here I've been satisfied with a single 10" sub and about 500W for my last two builds. I love my bass. But also like a well balanced sound as well. I'm going to throw the Sundown Audio SD4 out there as an option as well. I really dig this little sub.

Ge0
 
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Wow that would be just as good af the HF. Good enough to where I wouldn’t see it reasonable to switch my Rockford 1 ohm amp with another 2 ohm amp. I would be using two of the DVC 4+4ohm HO’s to get down to a 1 ohm final load. I believe the 3.17mh listed on the spec sheet is the inductance with the coils in series if I’m not mistaken or do you think it’s 3.17mh per coil?
If it’s 3.17 in series then in theory each coil would be 1.585mh so in parallel LE would be 0.7925mh...


This is just a guess because I’ve seen other DVC subwoofers with their spec sheets listed with the coils wired in series...
That will be in series like you say as the specs are with the coils in series

The sq team I do a lot of tuning for are just doing a build with a pair of the rss315ho-44

It’s a shame they don’t do the hf in a dual coil, I’d have been on a pair of 315hf-44 like a shot 😎
 

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2004 Rav4 JL900/5 Rss265-44HO Rockford DSR-1 Fountek FR88 RS180-4
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Dayton RSS265-44 ho has been serving me well for ~ $160. I’m currently searching for information on the perception of distortion. So far it seems like there are better places to spend then on a premium subwoofer. Anyone wanting to throw some numbers on where, frequency wise, perception of distortion begins to “matter” please do. I’ll even purpose that some like certain types of distortion when present.
 

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Dayton RSS265-44 ho has been serving me well for ~ $160. I’m currently searching for information on the perception of distortion. So far it seems like there are better places to spend then on a premium subwoofer. Anyone wanting to throw some numbers on where, frequency wise, perception of distortion begins to “matter” please do. I’ll even purpose that some like certain types of distortion when present.
Check this out:
distortion
 

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2004 Rav4 JL900/5 Rss265-44HO Rockford DSR-1 Fountek FR88 RS180-4
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People shun the aura 3” because distortion at the low end ~300hz. So we can all relax a little?
 

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Subs sub. As Gijoe stated earlier, not a whole lot of technology break throughs with subwoofers so your options are plentiful. I go with the one that plays best in my current enclosure.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Truth be told the shop I went to get my Oracle lights done also carried JL Audio subwoofers as well as Phoenix Gold, Sony, JBL and Kenwood.

Truthfully they did not excite me at all. However I may truly look into Dayton, Fi Audio Alpha, Image Dynamics IDQ and the IDMAX. However a friend of mine mention that Digital Designs has their HiDef series which DD Audio considers it their SQ lineup.

Another friend of mine suggested to me the Focal subs as well. However I hardly ever heard a Focal subwoofer playing since over here in Orlando it’s either JL Audio or some SPL subwoofer they have in their ride for example Massive Audio, Kicker, Audiopipe and others.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Me myself am the fan of JBL GTI, but had also gret results with older KEF drivers and with Focal Audiom WX27. One of best price/performance subs were TREO TSX.
 
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I have it on good advice from someone who sells Brax/helix that the Hybrid Audio Clarus in a 12 is awesome. No idea how much in the US though. If my two new Brax Matrix ML8 subs don't do the job in a large 4WD station wagon I'll be trying the clarus.
 

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Just about any sub can be an “SQ sub” if it’s in a proper box. Subs are far more forgiving than high frequency speakers, displacement is king. We barely hear distortion in low frequencies, and a lot of the distortion we do hear simply makes the sub sound louder.

Pick the sub that models best off of the power you intend to use, and the enclosure size/type you intend to use.
So true ! I don't know how many different brands / sizes of subs Ive owned in 30 years, but probably at least 20 brands, from 8"s to 18"s... and as it turns out, my current sub (somewhat of a budget brand 18"... Skar ZVX) "in its current enclosure" is the best sounding sub, I've ever owned. I swear if you could only hear it, without seeing it, I might be able to convince you, that it was four 8"s, or 10"s. Super tight, fast, and articulate. But then on really deep stuff, it can do lightweight hair tricks. Fun :)
 

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I just sold a 10 Morel Elate to my next door neighbor and we made a glass enclosure with a 3/4 baffle top with a cube of about .85 = 24liters powered with a Slash 300/2 bridged and it sounds pretty damn good. Sub was only 250 and never played so I bought it new and did not use it so even though the equipment is a bit old, still sounds pretty good. My thoughts are if you know how to tune, and do the basic wiring, this is a HUGE part of making it sound good and protect it from blowing the rest is about making your tuning job easy. Fancy equipment helps with this and yes there is advantages to high end equipment but if you don't tune it right then you lost the advantage of the better equipment and in some cases there are only marginal benefits. Same goes with sound dampening. If you skip this step you give up some advantages.
 
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