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So true ! I don't know how many different brands / sizes of subs Ive owned in 30 years, but probably at least 20 brands, from 8"s to 18"s... and as it turns out, my current sub (somewhat of a budget brand 18"... Skar ZVX) "in its current enclosure" is the best sounding sub, I've ever owned. I swear if you could only hear it, without seeing it, I might be able to convince you, that it was four 8"s, or 10"s. Super tight, fast, and articulate. But then on really deep stuff, it can do lightweight hair tricks. Fun :)
Really? I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the performance I got out of Skar Audio’s amplifiers. Their class A/B amps sound as good as my expensive class D amp. Their class D amps are great for subs (wouldn’t use their class d on mids and highs personally) but for the price I was really took back. They are kinda big not that compact but they are made by S&I mostly... same guys that make the sundown amps. I’ve been wanting to try their subs I might give one of the ZVX as a shot… my NVX (sonic) sub has done me quite well for an excellent price so I know there are great deals out there for Bass as least
 

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Really? I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the performance I got out of Skar Audio’s amplifiers. Their class A/B amps sound as good as my expensive class D amp. Their class D amps are great for subs (wouldn’t use their class d on mids and highs personally) but for the price I was really took back. They are kinda big not that compact but they are made by S&I mostly... same guys that make the sundown amps. I’ve been wanting to try their subs I might give one of the ZVX as a shot… my NVX (sonic) sub has done me quite well for an excellent price so I know there are great deals out there for Bass as least
Ill be honest, I have not really looked into the Skar equipment as I was turned off by them at first. Locally, they only people that seemed to run Skar amps or subs were younger people looking to get loud cheap. The couple of times I heard anything used was a some car shows and the cars didnt sound good. Again, this was my initial impression and I never looked again. It sounds as it they may have a few decent things in their line up now.
 

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Yes, they to cater to the SPL crowd and a lot of people just want to get as loud as possible for as cheap as possible. But if I had to build a super cheap system that still sounded good, I sware by their class A/B amps. Or their class D for sub duty. There’s nothing for the price I’ve seen that even comes close. Everything else in the price range is like maxxsonics garbage.
I’ve never tried anything besides their amps... their speakers look questionable, subs look nice but I’m sure they favor SPL over any thought or consideration of distortion...
 

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Really? I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the performance I got out of Skar Audio’s amplifiers. Their class A/B amps sound as good as my expensive class D amp. Their class D amps are great for subs (wouldn’t use their class d on mids and highs personally) but for the price I was really took back. They are kinda big not that compact but they are made by S&I mostly... same guys that make the sundown amps. I’ve been wanting to try their subs I might give one of the ZVX as a shot… my NVX (sonic) sub has done me quite well for an excellent price so I know there are great deals out there for Bass as least
As a matter of fact, I'm also running this Skar 4 ch for my mids / highs, and mid bass drivers and love it too...

My mono amp for the sub is the Wolfram 2400.1 though. It puts out about 2630 wts for my 18" Skar sub With impedance drop and all that, it's probably closer to 1800, but that perfect for the 18" which is rated at 1600 wts RMS...
 

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So true ! I don't know how many different brands / sizes of subs Ive owned in 30 years, but probably at least 20 brands, from 8"s to 18"s... and as it turns out, my current sub (somewhat of a budget brand 18"... Skar ZVX) "in its current enclosure" is the best sounding sub, I've ever owned. I swear if you could only hear it, without seeing it, I might be able to convince you, that it was four 8"s, or 10"s. Super tight, fast, and articulate. But then on really deep stuff, it can do lightweight hair tricks. Fun :)
The tight sound comes from the midbass/upper sub bass regions not the subs alone, I’m guessing you run big midbass also, turn them off and then see how it sounds 😉

the skar svx sub an sq sub. Sorry but with the mms being over half a kg it just means you’ve not heard a proper sq sub to compare
 

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The tight sound comes from the midbass/upper sub bass regions not the subs alone, I’m guessing you run big midbass also, turn them off and then see how it sounds 😉

the skar svx sub an sq sub. Sorry but with the mms being over half a kg it just means you’ve not heard a proper sq sub to compare
I'm running four 8"s, and yes, of course they contribute greatly to a tight bass sound.
But many times when tuning and testing, I've had the mid bass drivers turned off, and that 18" is just really tight. Fast and responsive.

Maybe after building dozens of systems myself and listening to hundreds of high end systems, in the last 40 years, I don't have anything to compare to.... Wait. That's kind of rediculous.
 

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What do you guys think of the Adire Audio subs?
They look like they should fit this category, but I have not heard them.
 

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I want one so bad. I think i might go with a CSS xbl2 sub instead of a Brahma one due to the shorting rings...
 

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Im stuck between the decision of getting a nice XBL2 sub or just grabbing two of these NVX subs and calling it a day... im currently running a single one of these NVX and it honestly sounds pretty dang good but i need just a bit more output to be happy... I wonder if upgrading to a SQ sub would even net any differences in a car environment...

 

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Im stuck between the decision of getting a nice XBL2 sub or just grabbing two of these NVX subs and calling it a day... im currently running a single one of these NVX and it honestly sounds pretty dang good but i need just a bit more output to be happy... I wonder if upgrading to a SQ sub would even net any differences in a car environment...

SQ subs tend to blend more and be more "musical" while not being really known for output. They tend to be what most would call transparent and their presence felt in true lower frequencies...IDMAX may be your cup of tee if looking for loud and clear.
 

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SQ subs tend to blend more and be more "musical" while not being really known for output. They tend to be what most would call transparent and their presence felt in true lower frequencies...IDMAX may be your cup of tee if looking for loud and clear.
I definitely wouldn’t say an “SQ” sub blends any better, the ability to blend well isn’t inherent in a speaker. What most people consider an SQ sub is a low distortion sub, they aren’t necessarily any quieter than any other sub, but low distortion takes away some perceived output because low frequency distortion isn’t bothersome to us.

That’s why I say there is no real quality that classifies a sub as an “SQ” sub.
 

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I’m just reviewing an earlier chapter. Doesn’t blending pretty much boil down to similar amplitude and good phase behavior at chosen crossover points?
 

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Im stuck between the decision of getting a nice XBL2 sub or just grabbing two of these NVX subs and calling it a day... im currently running a single one of these NVX and it honestly sounds pretty dang good but i need just a bit more output to be happy... I wonder if upgrading to a SQ sub would even net any differences in a car environment...

If you end up with the CSS please post a thread, that thing is stunning. She's so pretty

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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I’m just reviewing an earlier chapter. Doesn’t blending pretty much boil down to similar amplitude and good phase behavior at chosen crossover points?
Yes, blending is accomplished by having a smooth frequency response through the sub/midbass crossover. Since the subs will need to be at least 10dB louder that the midbass (for it to sound even remotely fun), but it's important that the frequency response is smooth, and not abrupt.

This transition is really important. Most of the complaints people have about poor midbass boil down to the frequency response across this crossover point. It is really important to and and how well the levels are matched, the speakers are in phase, and how well the EQ has been used.
 

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I definitely wouldn’t say an “SQ” sub blends any better, the ability to blend well isn’t inherent in a speaker. What most people consider an SQ sub is a low distortion sub, they aren’t necessarily any quieter than any other sub, but low distortion takes away some perceived output because low frequency distortion isn’t bothersome to us.

That’s why I say there is no real quality that classifies a sub as an “SQ” sub.
I will agree with you for the most part, however, I still would consider low distortion subs as being essential for a real SQ system. If I have to eq a sub to death after I put it in it's recommended enclosure then I just choose not to use it. I guess my definition of a "SQ" sub is one the behaves properly with little or no eq.
 

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Skimmed through a bit so forgive if this has been covered. Extension and distortion aside, what happens beyond the crossover point matters as well. Somewhat related to inductance, but I've seen very few subs that were reluctant to EQ outside of the crossover point which no good sub should exhibit. The response above what is chosen is very important to blend since the mesh area is totally affected. Usually, this is the problem many experience... they don't EQ outside of the x-over point. I will EQ all the way up to 160-200hz on a sub that's crossed at 80.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

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Skimmed through a bit so forgive if this has been covered. Extension and distortion aside, what happens beyond the crossover point matters as well. Somewhat related to inductance, but I've seen very few subs that were reluctant to EQ outside of the crossover point which no good sub should exhibit. The response above what is chosen is very important to blend since the mesh area is totally affected. Usually, this is the problem many experience... they don't EQ outside of the x-over point. I will EQ all the way up to 160-200hz on a sub that's crossed at 80.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Interesting, endless things to consider.
 

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Skimmed through a bit so forgive if this has been covered. Extension and distortion aside, what happens beyond the crossover point matters as well. Somewhat related to inductance, but I've seen very few subs that were reluctant to EQ outside of the crossover point which no good sub should exhibit. The response above what is chosen is very important to blend since the mesh area is totally affected. Usually, this is the problem many experience... they don't EQ outside of the x-over point. I will EQ all the way up to 160-200hz on a sub that's crossed at 80.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Wow , I did not consider this until you brought this up... I suppose just because your slope starts at 80hz (i actually like 90hz sometimes 100hz) then at the bottom of the Xover slope there could be even higher frequencies...
 

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If you end up with the CSS please post a thread, that thing is stunning. She's so pretty

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I'm trying really hard to find a subwoofer that I can utilize my current enclosure with. Its 1.5 cu ft MDF. Sealed, but I will be adding an aero port tuned to what I deem models closest to my desired response in WinIsd..... The CSS models just beautifully... its just a bit more than i want to spend, but i might end up doing it... just concerned about my single walled baffle box being able to support the monster sub just the motor is 46 lbs.. WOW!

I also have my eyes on a Sundown SA-12 which does have a single shorting ring, but much higher inductance.... I havent decided if its worth the extra coin for a low distortion sub inside a car.... Just hate paying money for something that wont even make a difference you know...

They both have decent MMS, great linear excursion....
 

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Wow , I did not consider this until you brought this up... I suppose just because your slope starts at 80hz (i actually like 90hz sometimes 100hz) then at the bottom of the Xover slope there could be even higher frequencies...
What Bayboy said would apply to all the driver passbands or crossover points which is one thing that I think separates a good tune from a not as good tune.
 
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