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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm about to completely rebuild my truck. Converting it from a crew cab to a single cab, shortening the frame, adding more power, etc.
The stereo build is a major factor in this build
Since it will be a single cab now no rear fill will be used. I will be using my current equipment so it'll be my DRZ9255, Focal KRX3 front stage, a-pillar mids and tweets, mid bass in the lower doors, JL 10W7 in a front firing center console and the amps along the back wall...all run active.
That's easy enough but everyone always asks so there's the parts list.

My question is more along the lines of prep work.
If you had a clean slate...and I mean a 100% stripped cab, dash and all...where would you start.
Deadener ? Cover it 100% or just hit the larger flat and problem seas?
Ensolite ? Everywhere including the roof ?
MLV ? 100% coverage or other?
Expandable foam really worth the effort ?
What about outer firewall treatments ?
Any viable treatments for under the cab ? Some sort of spray on deadener?
Any other tips or tricks I should be considering ?

I'll be able to cover all of the sheetmetal including the firewall up to the windshield.
I also plan to insert surgical tubing into the doors weatherstripping...that's a trick the Super Duty guys have been doing for years and seems to work well with wind noise.

Anyway...any tips or tricks to have the quietest cab I can even though it's jut gonna be a weekend toy and show truck are appreciated.
 

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Ah i hate to see your truck torn apart. Its really a piece of art.Good luck ive got 90% of the interiorout of mine deadening it. ? y not just buy a single cab and build another truck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I already have another crew cab truck...my 2009 Chevy with a Duramax....and I don't need another toy. Plus I already bought the cab and won't have to do another motor swap. It'll be super easy to put in my new cam and new ported head with the cab off too.

I'm completely stripping the new cab so I can have the firewall and door jambs painted before I drop it on the frame so this is the perfect time to apply any and all sound deadener and stuff.
 

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In my opinion, and what I'm doing on my build......

If its stripped down, deadener everywhere, 2 layers on the trouble spots. Ensolite or other ccf in between all rattle spots, and between deadener and mlv. MLV has to be 100% coverage to work best, any gaps will let a lot of noise through.

Yes, its a little into diminishing returns, but if the trucks that far apart, isnt it best to do it a little overboard, than wish later that you had.


I know some people are going to say 25% coverage is ideal, and I believe that, for road noise reduction. But most times, 25% coverage isnt enough for audio improvement, especially seeing things like a 10w7 in the center console.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The whole truck is overkill and has been for years....no sense in stopping now.
Guess I need to start measuring square footage and get ready to order up some raw materials.

What about ensolite and MLV on the roof though? Does it even accomplish anything ? Does that much road noise come in from the top ?
 

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The whole truck is overkill and has been for years....no sense in stopping now.
Guess I need to start measuring square footage and get ready to order up some raw materials.

What about ensolite and MLV on the roof though? Does it even accomplish anything ? Does that much road noise come in from the top ?
Ensolite on the roof does help insulate the truck. Being in Texas, I would definately put ensolite up there... Doesn't take much time and will help keep you cool!
 

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You might as well go all-out & do 100% coverage on all three layers top to bottom. :) Because if you're anything like me, it would drive me crazy if I thought there would've been any audible differences if I wouldn't have skimped out on something the first go around.

Something else you may add, which I'm going to myself, is multiple layers of that rubberized spray coating on the wheel wells, trunk, etc., underneath the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bump for the weekday crowd's input.
 

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Ill second using something like spectrum underneath, if your trucks anything like my truck was, the bottom was just paint, no undercoat of any kind. Plus I really think that sandwiching the metal between 2 layers of deadening is the most solid approach.
 

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leave your current truck alone, buy a beater/different vehicle to work on.

un-doing all the effort and work and $$ you have in your current truck makes zero sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nothing about my truck makes sense. LOL
It's a toy and it's time to make it fun again. Hell...I might drive it twice a month IF I'm even in Texas. I'm in Pa now then Mi then Il till December. My girl and I have 2 teenage kids and 3 crew cab trucks between us. I bought the Ford new when my kid was much younger and had to be in the back seat...those days are long gone and I've always planned to cut it up. Its been in 3 magazines, calendars, catalog covers, Ford's official website and tons of other little things but it's never been on a magazine cover...and that's what I'm building it for this time. I'm doing a whole color change too.

Anyway...I think it's gonna be a whole lot more fun to drive at 2000 lbs lighter than now and I've already bought everything to do it including the new cab.

I do want the sound system to be top notch though...I think I'm gonna try my hand at competing in some local stuff. That's why I want to do everything possible, the right way from the very start. We don't get blank canvases to work with very often.
 

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Hell yea, sounds like a crazy project! May as well do full coverage deadening, CCF, and MLV. You gonna build a custom dash too, where you could mount your midbass speakers up on top right next to your pillars? THAT would be sweet!
 

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Do everything but work extra hard on the stuff in front of you ie. the kickpanels, firewall, a-pillars, and (obviously) front doors. Do the firewall from both sides. Cover the fender well, transmission tunnel and underbody with Second Skin Spectrum Sludge.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What about something like one of Cascade's liquid products instead of standard Dynamat type products on the inside ?
 

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What about something like one of Cascade's liquid products instead of standard Dynamat type products on the inside ?
Hell, do the liquid, then the CLD!
 

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Actually, do the cld, then liquid. I've read several times and places that the cld will be almost worthless if applied over spectrum/cascades stuff, while the other way works quite well

Hmmm... that's interesting to know. Do you recall why it was said CLD doesn't work too well over the liquid deadener?
 
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