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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I have a Honda CR-Z with a premium audio package so it has a subwoofer but the subwoofer does not have a separate channel as it receives signals from the front speakers.

I replaced the factory HU with a Chinese Android HU(top of the line from the options). The Android HU uses a ty,pical Kenwood 16pin harness and I used a Honda Metra harness for my CR-Z.
The installation was successful but I keep hearing white/grey static noise all the time, and it gets louder as I turn on the volume.
Even if I turn off the music or any kind of sound, then it stops temporarily but will get triggered again as I turn on any sound.

Also, the volume increases too sensitively. The max volume is 30 and it's difficult for me to go beyond 7 or 8 of 30 with the android HU.
The loudness is equal to probably 13-14 of the factory HU. A Youtube video I watched explained this exact symptom/phenomenon due to the aftermarket HU pumping amplified signal to the factory amp.

I saw a video of a similar issue with a similar or identical sound system (Honda Civic premium audio), and he suggested using RCA pre-outs because the factory HU sends weak signals to the factory amp to let the amp send amplified signals to power the speakers. Using the 16 PIN directly from the android HU will feed amplified signals to the amp hence the amp would freak out and cause static noise.

However, I saw a member from the CR-Z forum who followed that method by using RCA pre-outputs and used a Honda METRA with RCA inputs. He complained that he could hear static noise when the headlight was on or the engine was on.

I'm wondering if I should buy some cheap line-out converters to convert the amplified HU signals to weaker voltage via RCA and then feed that RCA to the factory amp instead by using the Honda Metra harness with RCA input due to the android HU RCA outputs causing static noise.

Audio equipment Finger Motor vehicle Automotive tire Electrical wiring
 

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It almost sounds like you are sending speaker-level outputs from the head-unit to line-level inputs on the amp.

Are you using line-level outputs on the head-unit? Or are you using speaker-level outputs?

EDIT: Disregard - I can't read - there is no amp involved here.

EDIT2: wait - actually, it sounds like there IS an amp - it's just a factory amp. I just want to make sure that you are not sending speaker-level outputs to a line-level input - because that sure sounds like what is occurring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It almost sounds like you are sending speaker-level outputs from the head-unit to line-level inputs on the amp.

Are you using line-level outputs on the head-unit? Or are you using speaker-level outputs?

EDIT: Disregard - I can't read - there is no amp involved here.

EDIT2: wait - actually, it sounds like there IS an amp - it's just a factory amp. I just want to make sure that you are not sending speaker-level outputs to a line-level input - because that sure sounds like what is occurring.
Hi jtrosky,
thanks for the reply.

I do not know but if I have to use an example.
Output device Font Gadget Audio equipment Computer monitor accessory


I have this very same unit and that "power harness" is connected to the factory amp. As you know, the factory amp does not have RCA and it uses Honda's own harness.
So the factory amp is getting fed by the android HU's power harness.
I don't know the term if that is the speaker-level output or line-level output but I assume it is the speaker level output.
 

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I guess it all boils down to whether the factory amp is setup to accept line-level or speaker-level signals.

Line-level = signal before amplification
Speaker-level = signal after application

The Android head-unit has its own amp built in as well. So if it's amplifying the signal in the head-unit and you are then sending that already-amplified signal to the factory amp, that may be your issue.

However, that radio is supposed to be a plug-and-play unit for that specific car, correct? Is it definitely compatible with amplified factory systems (as opposed to factory systems with just a head-unit and no amp)? Some of those radios don't work with amplified factory systems - or may require a different harness to work with factory amplified systems.

Check the radio specs to make sure it works with an amplified factory system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I guess it all boils down to whether the factory amp is setup to accept line-level or speaker-level signals.

Line-level = signal before amplification
Speaker-level = signal after application

The Android head-unit has its own amp built in as well. So if it's amplifying the signal in the head-unit and you are then sending that already-amplified signal to the factory amp, that may be your issue.

However, that radio is supposed to be a plug-and-play unit for that specific car, correct? Is it definitely compatible with amplified factory systems (as opposed to factory systems with just a head-unit and no amp)? Some of those radios don't work with amplified factory systems - or may require a different harness to work with factory amplified systems.

Check the radio specs to make sure it works with an amplified factory system.
I think it's speaker-level then since the android has a built-in amp like you mentioned to power the speakers directly.
However, the pre-out (RCA) of the android is causing static noise not as dramatic as mine according to other member but still is causing the static noise issue.

Do you think I should get LOC for each channel and let it filter the surging power to feed the factory amp weak signals? Or does LOC not do this?
 

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So you’re saying you’ve tried hooking up the rca preouts to the factory harness and tried using the high level out? Both ways had static? Is there an amp bypass available for the factory amp?
 

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You can check the HU's factory settings to see if it has volume controls built in. On mine, I can raise or lower the dbs.

If you have spare speakers lying around, you can try hooking them up directly to the HU and listen to check if there's static noise to determine if you have line or speaker level outputs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So you’re saying you’ve tried hooking up the rca preouts to the factory harness and tried using the high level out? Both ways had static? Is there an amp bypass available for the factory amp?
I haven't personally tested the RCA preouts but another who owns the same as my car and owns the same head unit tried the RCA preouts and reported about the static noise issue.
That member thought maybe the RCA pre-outs are no good so I tried the other option, but nope, same result, maybe even worse.

I think it is speaker level output since like any typical aftermarket head unit, it has a built-in amp to power speakers.
 

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I haven't personally tested the RCA preouts but another who owns the same as my car and owns the same head unit tried the RCA preouts and reported about the static noise issue.
That member thought maybe the RCA pre-outs are no good so I tried the other option, but nope, same result, maybe even worse.

I think it is speaker level output since like any typical aftermarket head unit, it has a built-in amp to power speakers.
Well, I have a feeling that the other users "static noise" will be a LOT lower than yours (if you are, in fact, sending speaker-level signals to line-level inputs).

I would definitely try switching over to the RCA outputs and see where you stand.

Sent from my ASUS Chromebook Flip C302 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I have a feeling that the other users "static noise" will be a LOT lower than yours (if you are, in fact, sending speaker-level signals to line-level inputs).

I would definitely try switching over to the RCA outputs and see where you stand.

Sent from my ASUS Chromebook Flip C302 using Tapatalk

Yes, but as I saw other member saying the RCA pre-outs were causing static noises, I was thinking of what to do.

Do you think I should buy some cheap LOCs per channel and connect them with speaker-level outputs to convert them into RCA outputs?

Would the LOCs stabilize the static noise?
 

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I have used many chinese head units and fought noise problems with every single one. I never achieved the result I was looking for even after trying chokes, ground loop isolators, rerouting wiring and interconnects, shielding and moving amps. It is my belief that they just have poor quality analog devices and or the circuitry is poorly designed. I purchased a joying because it has digital audio outputs. I went digital and I now have no noise issues, plus I'm getting the highest quality signal to my dsp. Go digital and never look back, it's worth it entirely.
 
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