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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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Looking back to see how many suggested sealed box. :)
✋️ I suggested a sealed box, multiple times. 2 SQLs have so much potential in a sealed box it's ridiculous. It's not going to win him SPL lane competitions but if that's what he wants, there's other subs for that. I got them from reading daloudin's post and praise on them. I really appreciate his input. I believe he once said that the SQLs are "SQ first, loud second". I have zero regrets with them. Only regret I have is taking them out to save a little space, but if I put them back in I won't want to take them out to have a proper box made for them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 · (Edited)
I tossed my options around and im giving up on the spl idea comps wise and im going to go 1.10 net sealed each where i am currently running one in .85 net and then im going to run my 3 k amp at half ohm where its stable. Good enough spl wise will have to be good enough. At least it will sound good doing it and the biggest thing is ill have plenty of room for my two 40 ah lithium batteries and my supercap bank. Thanks so much to those who helped me with this project.

ps... im going to have the installer build me a custom box out of birch and doing it custom ill be able to maximize efficient use of trunk space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
I decided to look online and see what i could find sealed enclosure wise and found a dual 12 box with a 1 inch front baffle that has 1.20 cf per chamber so 1.05 net per chamber after the subs and the dimensions are exactly what i needed to maximize space. So i saved some money too.
 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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I've used alot of sealed pre fab boxes as testers. Most of those boxes leak at the terminals. I've had one terminal melt. So there may be some prep work to properly seal it and I end up putting binding post isnted of using the cheap terminal cups.
 

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I decided to look online and see what i could find sealed enclosure wise and found a dual 12 box with a 1 inch front baffle that has 1.20 cf per chamber so 1.05 net per chamber after the subs and the dimensions are exactly what i needed to maximize space. So i saved some money too.

I've got one of these in the 1.0 cuft size - they are beastly and the bracing in the 1 cuft had to be "massaged" to make room for the basket and voice coil vent but you can't beat the price "IF" you've got the clamps and glue.
 

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I've got one of these in the 1.0 cuft size - they are beastly and the bracing in the 1 cuft had to be "massaged" to make room for the basket and voice coil vent but you can't beat the price "IF" you've got the clamps and glue.
for my dual 12 box i used somethign similar. PE sells the "kit" version too. Its all the bracing plus the double baffle. This gave me the ability to buy 2 of them, and then also custom cut everything to the box specs.
 

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What if i doubled up the walls on the enclosure would that work as well to make a strong box? Or fiberglass the inside of the prefab box i bought?
A layer or two of fiberglass will not substantially reduce panel flex, whereas doubling panel walls will. However, nothing reduces panel flex as much as proper cross-bracing.
 

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What if i doubled up the walls on the enclosure would that work as well to make a strong box? Or fiberglass the inside of the prefab box i bought?
I have used Line-X Bedliner spray to coat the inside of prefab boxes to keep from blowing them apart but you have to know someone who makes the "real" stuff and not the kind you buy in a can.

The problem with bracing most prefab boxes is you can't really install full width skeletonized braces without taking the baffle off so you end up putting in triangle braces or multi-piece braces and if not done correctly they can rattle loose. Some of the boxes that I've been asked to "fix" had so many holes in them from drywall screws that were used to try and salvage a blown out corner or securing an angle brace and missed that it was easier to take the box apart and glue a new piece of MDF on in place of the damaged panel.

Doubling up the walls is the best idea but you have to take off whatever they put on the outside (carpet, vinyl, paint, etc.) and sand it down to the MDF so you can glue the panels you add to the existing enclosure. Gluing the entire mating surface so they become laminated together is what creates the strength. But if you have the tools to make the panels for doubling then you can make your own enclosure and do the internal bracing correctly. You don't have to Dado every mating edge to make a strong joint (it does help because it makes more glue surface and stabilizes the joint so it is easier to make that joint straight) just realize that it takes multiple days to glue up one enclosure as you wait for the glue to cure before proceeding to the next panel.
 

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for my dual 12 box i used somethign similar. PE sells the "kit" version too. Its all the bracing plus the double baffle. This gave me the ability to buy 2 of them, and then also custom cut everything to the box specs.
...and they sell blank baffle versions as well so if you need the 15" size knock-down for a 12" driver you can cut your own cutout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Ok im trying here what about threaded rod across the front and sides of the prefab with a thick washer to draw it in. If this cant work i will have a box built just trying all my options.

This is the enclosure i bought.

 

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Ok im trying here what about threaded rod across the front and sides of the prefab with a thick washer to draw it in. If this cant work i will have a box built just trying all my options.

This is the enclosure i bought.

I have that same box as a single though. It seemed to be well made box but like it was mentioned above a beastly sub requires a beastly box. I didn't do too much to it besides adding binding post to it and using weather strips to seal the sub I also put weather strips around the inside of the terminal cup. Don't know if that helped any but the terminal cup wasn't leaking air. Had to shave off some of the mounting hole to make the sub fit too. But it was a tester box so I wasn't going to go all out on it.
 

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Ok im trying here what about threaded rod across the front and sides of the prefab with a thick washer to draw it in. If this cant work i will have a box built just trying all my options.

This is the enclosure i bought.

Not that putting spreader turnbuckles or threaded rod and self locking nuts wouldn't help but you really want to be able to spread the bracing out over a large area and triangulation from perpendicular sides is what really solidifies the enclosure.

You "can" brace that enclosure but it's complicated. First you have to have spreader clamps so you can push out on the braces and force them into the sides. You cut braces that are the same depth as the box and thick enough to match the cutout hole. One at each midpoint of all 4 sides on each side. Then you cut cross braces that will fit between these side braces very tightly and cut slots in both of them so they interlock then glue them in all the way at the back. Hopefully that makes sense?

You'll also want to cut full depth 45⁰ braces for the corners as well to reinforce those glue joints.

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I managed to run 13 hrs of free air break in and re-measured on Dats V3 .
Here are the before and after results in one post .

 
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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
I got my stereo integrity sql 12's installed now in the new 1.05 cf per sub and i have to say i do like the bigger box they are in now better than the .85 net per sub they were in before. I also have my taramps smart 3 bass at .50 ohms in there now but i cant turn it up much because im still on the stock 110 amp alternator. It already bumps pretty good now.
 

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I got my stereo integrity sql 12's installed now in the new 1.05 cf per sub and i have to say i do like the bigger box they are in now better than the .85 net per sub they were in before. I also have my taramps smart 3 bass at .50 ohms in there now but i cant turn it up much because im still on the stock 110 amp alternator. It already bumps pretty good now.
That's why I kept saying sealed. I can only speak from experience. And my experience with them is nothing but positive exclusively in a sealed box. Both together can handle your 3k all day everyday and smile. I'm glad your happy
 
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