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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I was going to try out a pair of Mpyre 6.5s in my setup, but while configuring for fronts only I ran into a REALLY strange issue.

As I switched all the rest of the speakers off in my setup (one of the big advantages of having a completely active setup), I found out the passenger front tweeter is *almost* blown. What I mean by that is that the output from it is almost non-existent, but it does have output. While the other side has 'normal' volume, the bad side has 1/20th the volume.

Now, I not only swapped leads on the amplifier to verify that there was nothing pre-tweeter that could be bad (and yes, the both amp channels work great), but I also took an ohm-meter to the wires going to the tweeters, and this is where it is wierd, but I got 3.1 ohm for BOTH front tweeters (both the good one and the bad one). How is that possible?

I figured if a tweeter went bad, it would have no output (burned out voicecoil), or if it was "compromised" it would show a way off ohm-reading. I guess what I am asking, is, what else could be the deal with the tweeter with low-output?

I'll be pulling that driver to make sure the magnet didn't become disconnected or anything, but still am perplexed by what is going on. It is a Seas Neo Aluminum (model H1397) for reference.

If I don't find anything by monday I guess I have no choice but to order a pair of replacements. It is just that uninstalling and re-installing it is a PITA the way it is in.

Bad thing is it is holding up my testing of the Mpyre 6.5s... Hard to tell how good a driver is without a tweeter to match it...
 

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Hey guys, I was going to try out a pair of Mpyre 6.5s in my setup, but while configuring for fronts only I ran into a REALLY strange issue.

As I switched all the rest of the speakers off in my setup (one of the big advantages of having a completely active setup), I found out the passenger front tweeter is *almost* blown. What I mean by that is that the output from it is almost non-existent, but it does have output. While the other side has 'normal' volume, the bad side has 1/20th the volume.

Now, I not only swapped leads on the amplifier to verify that there was nothing pre-tweeter that could be bad (and yes, the both amp channels work great), but I also took an ohm-meter to the wires going to the tweeters, and this is where it is wierd, but I got 3.1 ohm for BOTH front tweeters (both the good one and the bad one). How is that possible?

I figured if a tweeter went bad, it would have no output (burned out voicecoil), or if it was "compromised" it would show a way off ohm-reading. I guess what I am asking, is, what else could be the deal with the tweeter with low-output?

I'll be pulling that driver to make sure the magnet didn't become disconnected or anything, but still am perplexed by what is going on. It is a Seas Neo Aluminum (model H1397) for reference.

If I don't find anything by monday I guess I have no choice but to order a pair of replacements. It is just that uninstalling and re-installing it is a PITA the way it is in.

Bad thing is it is holding up my testing of the Mpyre 6.5s... Hard to tell how good a driver is without a tweeter to match it...
I`m having the same problem with my seas neo alums, I guest I`ll have to order one.
 

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I'm wondering if the magnet has not shifted, that would really suck, especially since it's showing up with two of them...... wonder if the adhesive for the magnet is not breaking down with heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually, I am almost positive the tweeter was working last fall. I am wondering if it isn't because of freezing in winter?

Also, in remembering how the Seas Neo Al tweeters are constructed, I don't think the magnet can shift...

Hmm, I do know you can pry back the tabs and remove the magnet from the frame... Maybe I'll do that tomorrow before ordering a new one on monday... Who knows, maybe the ferro-fluid gets dried out/thick over time?
 

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so did you measured the ohm for the 2 tweeters all the way from the amp or did you disconnected it and measured the ohm from the leads? i would try to take both tweeters out and run short wires to both of them. i noticed the longer the wire, it will lower the power going to the speaker. this happened to me when i was testing out my tru hammer into a sub. it was really weak. when i tried with an alpine mono block it was knocking alot harder. then i decided to cut off some of the wires because it was way too long. and that fixxed the problem. what guage wires are you running to that tweeter? the longer you are running them the lower guage you need. iono if this helps but it's something you can give a try at. goodluck.. steven.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wiring is fine. It is 16 gauge, which should be fine for tweeters...

Yeah, I measured them from the wires once I disconnected the wires from the amp.

When I pull the a-pillar I'll double-check it from the tweeter terminals itself.
 
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