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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally set my gains correctly and my kenwood 10's are now hitting harder and cleaner than ever..

only downside, is that now everything rattles worse than before. Trunk lid flexes/rattles, bumper rattles, trunk in general rattles bad, rear deck rattles, and even my front doors are rattling.

I thought sound deadener was the fix for this. Apparently it is, but to an extent. I read everything I could on Sound Deadener Showdown and learned alot.. apparently sound deadener (CLD) is only used for decreasing panel resonance and not for sound proofing. Optimal coverage is only 25%.. which sounds much better than covering everything and wasting my money.

So I'm considering putting 25% of their CLD tiles on any flat panel inside my car besides the roof since its the sturdiest thing on the car for some reason. Doors, rear quarter panels, trunk, and probably my rear bumper + license plate.

But my rear deck rattles like a ***** and Im pretty sure its not even clipped in anymore. CLD wont help me here. I also want more midbass out of my polks since I can feel it resonating through the other side of the door. To block noise, I need the MLV (mass loaded vinyl) right? And for the bottomside of my rear deck, I could probably use the CCF (closed cell foam) stuff?


I know I should be asking that guy who owns the company these questions, and I will, but I wanted to hear others opinions here first. What do yall think? How much is this gonna cost me? lol. Trying to stay under 80-100 bucks.
 

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I had panels rattle in my last car, and it was where the panels attached to each other. A bit of non hardening clay crammed into the seam between the panels alleviated many of those rattles. Might be worth a shot.

I don't know what to do about rear deck rattle though. A friend of mine's deck sounds like a buzz saw on any heavy bass notes and it's obnoxious. I feel your pain.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had panels rattle in my last car, and it was where the panels attached to each other. A bit of non hardening clay crammed into the seam between the panels alleviated many of those rattles. Might be worth a shot.

I don't know what to do about rear deck rattle though. A friend of mine's deck sounds like a buzz saw on any heavy bass notes and it's obnoxious. I feel your pain.
Yeah it sucks. Im considering putting a few CLD tiles on the rear deck metal and then stuffing the foam stuff under the rear deck and then clipping it back down... it says that foam stops rattles. We will see!

I've just gotta figure out how much of the stuff I need. Ill start measuring soon but I have a more serious problem with another one of our cars Im working on. Blown rebuilt engine in a jeep..
 

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with the rear deck, try checking to see where it's actually rattling. a lot of cars have that rattle because it's slapping against the back window, put some foam or rubber back there and it'll take care of it!
 

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It sounds elementary, but it can be helpful to remember that rattles are always two or more hard objects, one or more of which is vibrating, making intermittent contact. Identifying the source of the rattle is critical. Sometimes you can stop the objects movement by tightening something. Other times you need to put something soft between them.

The perfect illustration is the rear license plate - almost always rattles in the presence of subs. The problem is usually that it is only mounted with two bolts at the top. You could add bolts to the bottom to immobilize the license plate (difficult) or you could glue a piece of closed cell foam to the back of the license plate (easy and cheap). Either will solve the problem completely. Interestingly, the most often suggested treatment for a rattling license plate is layers of vibration damper on the vehicle itself.

Rear deck rattles can be the plastic trim panel against the sheet metal shelf, the trim panel against the rear window or any of mechanisms attached to the rear deck - third brake light, lift springs, seat belt reels, etc. My standard treatment is vibration damper on the sheet metal followed by a layer of CCF between the trim panel and shelf, wrapped over the rear edge to prevent contact with the window. Almost always have to track down a few stragglers.
 

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I find that "great stuff" NON expanding foam(the window version) works great for the rear deck. Make sure you cover everything underneath the decklid so it doesnt get into the trunk(that stuff STICKS like crazy)And use it sparingly...make sure you find out where the flex/rattle is occuring and hit each individual area(not just spray the entire thing)Do not use it ANYWHERE that might get wet though. Because even though it is "waterproof" It will soak up moisture and accelerate rust.
 

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dude, that trunk rattling and flexing is just showing others that you got mad dee-beez.
bump that **** like nobody's business!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
dude, that trunk rattling and flexing is just showing others that you got mad dee-beez.
bump that **** like nobody's business!
LOL

Thats one way to look at it! But its getting to the point where I can hear the rattles inside the car instead of bass! Dont get me wrong, I hear and feel bass.. but I want just bass!! No rattles.

Im going to try the CCF between the rear deck and some of the CLD tile stuff on the actual metal of the rear deck. Im willing to be it will fix my problem.

Im going to buy a ton of that CCF.. I would love to block out some noise, especially in my doors..
 

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LOL

Thats one way to look at it! But its getting to the point where I can hear the rattles inside the car instead of bass! Dont get me wrong, I hear and feel bass.. but I want just bass!! No rattles.

Im going to try the CCF between the rear deck and some of the CLD tile stuff on the actual metal of the rear deck. Im willing to be it will fix my problem.

Im going to buy a ton of that CCF.. I would love to block out some noise, especially in my doors..
Yea man thats not what you want! Stopping all rattles are going to be very tough, I know I can't stop all mine but I have a pretty big system. But putting some on the metal of the rear deck should help you out. Goodluck!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yea man thats not what you want! Stopping all rattles are going to be very tough, I know I can't stop all mine but I have a pretty big system. But putting some on the metal of the rear deck should help you out. Goodluck!
6 18's? ****. lol

I got 2 Kenwood 10's in a pretty big sealed box. Kenwood 8105d powering them. Surprising honestly how loud they are for 10s..
 

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6 18's? ****. lol

I got 2 Kenwood 10's in a pretty big sealed box. Kenwood 8105d powering them. Surprising honestly how loud they are for 10s..
Lol that's cool man. As long as you got some bass thats what matters :) But yea I am wanting to make a build log on this forum but I can't get the pictures up because I haven't had enough post. But hopefully soon. You can check out some of my videos on youtube just search 46panel. And there will be alot of them but the newer ones have the 6 18's.
 

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Maybe you can use some towels on your rear deck as a cheaper alternative. As far as the doors seal them holes up, except the rain holes on the bottom of the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hate to bump an almost 3 month old thread..

But if I thought I had rattle back then, I was way off. I mean I did have some rattle.. but Ive now upgraded to 3 Sundown Audio SA 8s on about 2200W from a SAZ 3000 and MAN it is loud! Setting off car alarms all over... my trunk sounds like it is going to fall off. The bolts on the little wing on my car actually backed themselves out.

Ive deadened my whole trunk with AT 60mil.



I know its not the cleanest of jobs, but I figured there was no since in covering any bends.. and I covered at least 75% of everything.

Im still having some MAJOR rattles!!

I need help.

Get on my level , Trunk Flex - YouTube

Watch that for about 10 seconds, and you will hear the rattles.. thats not even full tilt. I cant run full tilt at idle cause of my stock alt. Thats at I think 36/42. That terrible rattle you hear when my trunk lid is flapping in the wind, I can hear inside the car.

However, since that video, I have flipped my box around.. so it is now subs/port firing to the rear of the car, and it sure sounds better inside the car.. not sure how my trunk is doing.




Anyway, I want to stuff my trunk lid. Ive considered expanding foam.. and its tempting, but its very irreversible. Not too big of a deal with my car since parts are readily available, but its in such great shape.. its a 95 Nissan 240sx with now almost 21k miles on it. I cant do that to it. What else can I stuff in the nooks and crannies of the trunk lid, and then put more deadening material over?
 

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That rattle is the lid making contact with the body.
Put some closed foam on the edges of the lid and where it closes to the body.
 

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Hate to bump an almost 3 month old thread..

But if I thought I had rattle back then, I was way off. I mean I did have some rattle.. but Ive now upgraded to 3 Sundown Audio SA 8s on about 2200W from a SAZ 3000 and MAN it is loud! Setting off car alarms all over... my trunk sounds like it is going to fall off. The bolts on the little wing on my car actually backed themselves out.

Ive deadened my whole trunk with AT 60mil.



I know its not the cleanest of jobs, but I figured there was no since in covering any bends.. and I covered at least 75% of everything.

Im still having some MAJOR rattles!!

I need help.

Get on my level , Trunk Flex - YouTube

Watch that for about 10 seconds, and you will hear the rattles.. thats not even full tilt. I cant run full tilt at idle cause of my stock alt. Thats at I think 36/42. That terrible rattle you hear when my trunk lid is flapping in the wind, I can hear inside the car.

However, since that video, I have flipped my box around.. so it is now subs/port firing to the rear of the car, and it sure sounds better inside the car.. not sure how my trunk is doing.




Anyway, I want to stuff my trunk lid. Ive considered expanding foam.. and its tempting, but its very irreversible. Not too big of a deal with my car since parts are readily available, but its in such great shape.. its a 95 Nissan 240sx with now almost 21k miles on it. I cant do that to it. What else can I stuff in the nooks and crannies of the trunk lid, and then put more deadening material over?

THIS
It sounds elementary, but it can be helpful to remember that rattles are always two or more hard objects, one or more of which is vibrating, making intermittent contact. Identifying the source of the rattle is critical. Sometimes you can stop the objects movement by tightening something. Other times you need to put something soft between them.

The perfect illustration is the rear license plate - almost always rattles in the presence of subs. The problem is usually that it is only mounted with two bolts at the top. You could add bolts to the bottom to immobilize the license plate (difficult) or you could glue a piece of closed cell foam to the back of the license plate (easy and cheap). Either will solve the problem completely. Interestingly, the most often suggested treatment for a rattling license plate is layers of vibration damper on the vehicle itself.

Rear deck rattles can be the plastic trim panel against the sheet metal shelf, the trim panel against the rear window or any of mechanisms attached to the rear deck - third brake light, lift springs, seat belt reels, etc. My standard treatment is vibration damper on the sheet metal followed by a layer of CCF between the trim panel and shelf, wrapped over the rear edge to prevent contact with the window. Almost always have to track down a few stragglers.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That rattle is the lid making contact with the body.
Put some closed foam on the edges of the lid and where it closes to the body.
I need to buy some of that CCF stuff. Anyone know the cheapest place to order it?

turn your subs down.
That is no fun. Im upgrading soon, again... going to stuff 4 Sundown Audio SA 10s in a ported box off of a SAZ 3000d.

Gonna upgrade my front stage too so I can still hear it.. looking at Focal 165VBs, maybe some HATs, I have no idea what to do with it but I need it to be louder.
 
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