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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody - newbie here (ive been lurking)

Looking to get my first setup for my 2004 subaru forester 2.5x.

My car was recently rear-ended and I figured while it was going to be in the shop for work anyways I could go ahead and throw in some new speakers to handle my head unit. (Its nothing special, but i've been slowly deteriorating my stock ones with the wattage).

So heres the question - assuming all 4 speakers will be in the doors, and no sub will be installed - whats the best all around speakers for less than $300 for the 4.

Sorry for the college budget but I'm also going to need to get some mounts for them which will run me $45 custom made.

I was looking into alpine's SPR line last year but i never got around to doing it.

please and thanks in advance!
 

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Do you have an amp? Or will you be running them off of the OEM or a aftermarket head unit?

If you have an amp, how much power (RMS watts) do you have available?
 

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^Yeah, basically I agree.

Okay. You're going to want to look for very efficient speakers in the neighborhood of SPL=90dB+ @ 1w/1m. When you get down to the 85-87dB @ 1w/1m range you'll want to add an amp. Unfortunately, a lot of the popular car audio sets here are not very efficient and ideally need to be amplified. DIY and pro audio speakers will generally be much more efficient, but then you need to come up with DIY crossovers for proper operation, and more thought and time into the setup.

Infinity Reference Series coaxials seem to be the go-to set for high-efficiency running off of head unit power. They are mostly praised in reviews by the general public, but they're not very well liked by most experienced members on these forums. The tweeters are generally regarded as shrill or harsh and midbass is lacking. But for some they are a good upgrade from stock speakers. Here's a link, but you can find them cheaper elsewhere:

Infinity Reference X REF-6502ix 6-3/4" 2-way car speakers — also fit 6-1/2" openings at Crutchfield.com

The Polk Audio DB651 and DB651S have similar 92dB efficiency, are less expensive, and most people prefer their sound over the Infinity's. Info on Crutchfield, $75 on Amazon.


It might be easiest to go with some 6.5"-6.75" 2-way coaxial sets like above. But you have the small black plastic sail panel trim pieces on the inside of the front doors opposite the side-view mirrors, right? This would be a good spot for small-format component tweeters.

I would suggest getting a small 2-channel amp that will mount under your dash and getting better front speakers, and run the stock rear speakers off of your head unit. The most important speakers are the front set for good sound quality, and rear speakers are generally used just to satisfy the occasional rear passengers.

Using a small amp will really increase your options for a good front speaker set. Here's a great little Pioneer PRS-D800 amp that should tuck under your dash, but there are a few others that would work equally well...

Pioneer PRS-D800 300W RMS 2-Channel Class FD Car Amplifier
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its not that I dont want an amp, I just really hate doing the wiring (I'm almost sure the stock wiring would fry with that wattage). and it means another 100-200 for the amp and even more for the wiring kit.

In my apartment I have some studio monitors with a sub, and I like sound quality, but I'm on a college budget and insurance + gas takes up (most) of the car fund.
 

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Its not that I dont want an amp, I just really hate doing the wiring (I'm almost sure the stock wiring would fry with that wattage). and it means another 100-200 for the amp and even more for the wiring kit.

In my apartment I have some studio monitors with a sub, and I like sound quality, but I'm on a college budget and insurance + gas takes up (most) of the car fund.
I understand, but no pain, no gain! Just understand your limitations running off of head unit power (Max. 20 watts x 4, not the stated 50 watts).

If you go for an amp, I've got a ton of leftover 4ga. power wire, fuse holders, RCAs, and speaker wire that I'll send you for the cost of shipping a medium USPS flat rate box. Just show me the order receipt for the amp. ;)
 

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If you have access to a jig you should look into making the triangular adapters yourself. I just finished mine and sealed them, they aren't pretty but they get the job done. Used some left over 3/4" mdf, primer and paint so the cost was almost nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I know a guy who makes them custom for my car - he does great work and stands behind all his spacers, so I think the $45 is well worth it for a better seal/sound
 

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so... db501 or db521?
Definitely the db521 out of those two! It is a 5-1/4" coaxial. The db501 is a actually a 4" coaxial and will not play as low. Look at the specs on the Polk Audio website. They are listed as 5" but in the specs it says 4" cone. Look at all of the extra space the frame takes up around the perimeter compared to the db521's.

They are both 93dB efficient, so that is great.

If you can fit a 6.75" or 6.5" coaxial using your custom adapter rings, I would definitely go that route since you aren't running a subwoofer. A 6.5" can generally go much lower (better bass/midbass) than a 5.25" and are usually better-optimized for the large air space within a car door.

To get better low-end response out of a 5.25" or smaller speaker, they usually need to be in a smaller sealed or properly-sized and ported enclosure.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'll be using some quick roof to seal the doors more - and the adapter rings also attempt to seal the area a bit more.

Hoping to put 6.5's in the front and 5.25's in the rear
 

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I'll be using some quick roof to seal the doors more - and the adapter rings also attempt to seal the area a bit more.

Hoping to put 6.5's in the front and 5.25's in the rear
Beware of the Quick Roof, it is rubberized ASPHALT based product. That is fine for a roof, but not in your car. This product was designed to seal leaks and holes in roofs, and not optimized for sound deadening properties. It was also not designed to adhere to and stay put on vertical surfaces.

It may help some, but Asphalt products usually stink, and can get gooey/runny in the heat. I made this mistake years ago on my first install and used a similar asphalt-based building product. It didn't happen immediately, but eventually it became gooey and slid off of the surfaces it was once stuck to. I had tar dripping from all over onto my trim panels, carpets, and seats. :mad:

Not worth it dude. Buy only completely butyl-rubber based car audio CLD that is designed for ACOUSTIC deadening. It might look the same as Quick Roof, but it is very different in how it works! Thoroughly read www.sounddeadenershowdown.com .

Your idea to use 6.5" in front and 5.25" in the rear is perfect, though on Amazon it doesn't seem like there is too much difference in price between them. I guess it would add to the overall cost because you would have to pay for rear adapter rings as well.
 
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