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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

I just picked up a JL Audio 10W3 subwoofer and a Slash 250/1 amp to go with the sub. Since i have -999 woodworking skills, i am thinking about going with either a prefabricated box, or just taking it to a place to have them build/set me up with a box and install everything at the same time.

there is a car audio place near me that will build me a box to spec for $175 :eek:
or they also have something pretty close to my spec they say for $100. :eek:
the JL Audio box spec for the sub is .625 ft^3. and WxHxD of 18x11x9.
they also want $200 for an install on top of that, including cables.

the closest prefab box i found was dirt cheap on parts express, $23 for a goldwood. i did a search before i posted this and people said good things about the build quality of goldwoods in general and especially for the price! even though the box itself is $23, i'm aware im gonna have to get the polyfill, screws, endcaps and wires, and pay shipping so it will probably end up being around $50.
Parts-Express.com:Goldwood TR10F 10" Single Truck Box | speaker cabinet subwoofer box sub cabinet vented cabinet speaker box woofer box ventbox123008 Boxes030209
which is .7 ft^3 , 19x15x7.25

it's a 10.7% difference in volume from the spec, how much difference in sound would this make?

and also out of curiosity, how much of a difference do the dimensions make when building a sub box? in my example things are pretty close, but what if there was a situation where the dimensions were radically different but volume was still close to the spec, what kind of effect would that have on the sound coming from the sub?

my goals are to get the most out of this sub SQ wise. i don't really play my stuff too loud and i just need something to fill the low end of my setup.

I'm running a kenwood kdc-x993 head unit, a PDX 4.150 amp and focal access 165 A1 front components.

if you guys can help me out that would be great. also if you guys have any recommendations about my front sound stage i would appreciate it too, but imo i think it sounds pretty good w/ the head unit's built in time alignment. i think i just need some bass!
 

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Sealed boxes are forgiving, I don't think you'll hear much difference between those 2 volumes. But, since the prefab is bigger, you could always attach some wood on the inside to reduce the volume. The dimensions don't matter, as long as the sub fits and the volume is right. You can make it tall and skinny, short and fat, whatever as long as the volume is close. If your box is already too big the polyfill is an unnecessary step in the wrong direction. Stuffing a sealed box is done when the box is too small and you're trying to compensate. Adding something solid like pieces of 2x4 does the opposite, it takes a big box and reduced the internal volume to match what you're looking for.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sealed boxes are forgiving, I don't think you'll hear much difference between those 2 volumes. But, since the prefab is bigger, you could always attach some wood on the inside to reduce the volume. The dimensions don't matter, as long as the sub fits and the volume is right. You can make it tall and skinny, short and fat, whatever as long as the volume is close. If your box is already too big the polyfill is an unnecessary step in the wrong direction. Stuffing a sealed box is done when the box is too small and you're trying to compensate. Adding something solid like pieces of 2x4 does the opposite, it takes a big box and reduced the internal volume to match what you're looking for.

Hope that helps.
great information :beerchug: thanks alot!

i guess that makes me lean more towards the partsexpress goldwood box and maybe put some wood squares inside to reduce the volume just a tad bit. i still would probably want someone to do the install for me. i dont know how happy the place would be if i brough all my stuff to them to get it installed. i guess i'd be getting the wires and from them.
 

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I'm not a fan of particle board boxes... if they are fabbed out of MDF, i'd say go for it.. Looks like the GW box is MDF...

I used to build pre-fabs, and believe me, they aren't all the same.. lol.. but they all don't cost the same either...

I believe you'd be just fine with it, as long as it's close to required size.. You can also play with it's tuning a little if you liked...

If it seems to "tight" like you aren't getting good lower extension from the sub... adding polyfill (pillow stuffing) can trick the sub into thinking it's in a slightly larger enclosure..

If it seems to "flabby" and lose.. like you get a lot of low, but without much control, you can remove volume with something as simple as 2x4 cut-offs (small sections, secured inside the box)
 

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Box size is very important! I went from a 1 cubic foot box to 1.25 and all of a sudden, the bass sounded much deeper and lower.
That's what'll happen with a bigger box, power handling also decreases.

Sealed boxes are much more forgiving than a ported box, but you did increase the box size by 25%, that big of a change will make a noticeable difference in the sound.
 

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That's what'll happen with a bigger box, power handling also decreases.

Sealed boxes are much more forgiving than a ported box, but you did increase the box size by 25%, that big of a change will make a noticeable difference in the sound.
Probably more from less compression then from the change in tuning that the box brings though.
 

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Also, on JL's woofers, I find they ALWAYS sound better in 25%+ larger sealed boxes than they recommend. They also handle far more power than rated.

Note: My experience is with 10 year old drivers. The newer stuff may NOT have the same qualities my old stuff did.
 

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Going bigger in a sealed box does usually increase lower frequency extension. There is a limit to that though. Increasing size of a sealed box does DECREASE power handling. The increase in air volume decreases the "spring" effect that the air in the box causes. As an added benefit, another side effect of going to a larger enclosure is that the speaker usually will play louder with the same power.
 

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And glue and screw a couple of 1x2 pieces of wood on the rear and front interior panels. Plus one more, perpendicular to and in between the 2 in the rear. It'll look like an H when you look inside the box.
 

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Sorry to but in OP, but anyone know how to figure tuned frequency on those Goldwood prefabbed boxes? They show port dimensions, but not the tuning frequency.

Also, if the frequency is higher than you want (seems like a common thing among prefabbed ported boxes), would polyfill lower the tuning?
 

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Sorry to but in OP, but anyone know how to figure tuned frequency on those Goldwood prefabbed boxes? They show port dimensions, but not the tuning frequency.

Also, if the frequency is higher than you want (seems like a common thing among prefabbed ported boxes), would polyfill lower the tuning?
A box needs to be designed for whichever subwoofer to have a chance of making it sound good;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also, on JL's woofers, I find they ALWAYS sound better in 25%+ larger sealed boxes than they recommend. They also handle far more power than rated.

Note: My experience is with 10 year old drivers. The newer stuff may NOT have the same qualities my old stuff did.
this is my first experience with subs in a car in general. the goldwood box is about 12% bigger than what JL recommends. hopefully it will sound just as good :)
 
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