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Discussion Starter #1
I built a 1.24 cu.ft. sealed box for my Mazda 3 that sits over the spare tire. The plan is to mount a sub inverted so the magnet protrudes into the space left by the spare tire.

I had originally intended to install an Image Dynamics IDQ10 sub and that's basically what the box was designed for.

But, I'm remembering some of my old raw driver days and wondering if there's a cheaper alternative.

In looking for an alternative I found this:


The product details say it's optimized for a 0.3 cu.ft. sealed box. Another noted 0.12!

Are these numbers accurate?? It has me questioning if I even know how to calculate cu.ft. properly LOL

Or maybe these are just not designed for sealed enclosures?

On a secondary note, if anyone has a recommendation for a lower cost sub that should do just as well in a 1.24 cu.ft. box, feel free to recommend :)
 

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I ran one Dayton HO-4 in a .35 sealed box. Liked it so much now I have 2 in a .70 sealed box. I have them behind the seat in a double cab truck. Not sure how they do in a trunk.
Bayboy has alot of knowledge about the Daytons and I suspect he will reply to the thread
 

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Thanks Petererc. .

I see P.E. has changed their box suggestion back to the original size. They suggested bigger at one time, but the single 4 ohm doesn't need a big box to perform. It measures a Qtc around .7 in that size.... boxes that would seem only an 8" would work in. Many obsess over the fairly high F3, but in real world applications it dovetails nicely with most average standard size & under trucks and hatchbacks.


I also agree with Petererc, I wouldn't run this sub in a trunk unless you have multiples and can also fire it straight into the rear seat, essentially cutting off the trunk. It's not an output beast so application must be paid attention to.

Highly impressive sub when you have decent power behind it. Very clean and linear, but not for everyone. If you don't mind using a bigger box, there's other subs that will give more output. The HO-4 suits those needing small as possible that still digs deep with low distortion. Not much else compares especially for the price.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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Plenty of good 12” subs would do nicely in 1.24 cu ft...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure I have the depth for a 12. But I'd love to research any recommendations you have!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Port it and use the Dayton? Or the IDQ10..

I had an IDQ10v1 in a 1.1 cu ft box, ported at ~32hz per Eric at ID, it was very good sounding and had good output for a single 10 on 400 watts..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's too thin to port :/

It's only 3" clear interior height, so it's below the recommended port diameter. I'm assuming because there would be a lot of port noise.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Port it and use the Dayton? Or the IDQ10..

I had an IDQ10v1 in a 1.1 cu ft box, ported at ~32hz per Eric at ID, it was very good sounding and had good output for a single 10 on 400 watts..
As a general response to the original poster... there is always a pay off for a small enclosure, efficiency or low end

pick two of the three and then pick your sub to suit

as for a ported sub, generally for sq if you tune higher you then tend to lose a fair bit on the low end, if you tune low they can become a little low end dominant (but you can to some extent control the latter with a dsp)

sealed makes sense for most people as it’s slow roll off tends to then become a nice steady rise when you take cabin gain into account

I will also say I’m a fan of 12” or bigger subs for sq, while tens can do ok in multiples something always seems to be missing from the low end for me, sure there are doubtless one or ten very special tens that can dig low and sound very controlled while doing it (a hertz Mille ten I heard Last year was some of the most defined, articulate low end I’ve ever heard)

there is no replacement for displacement applys in sq as much as any other discipline for me
 

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I don’t know if this will help, but here’s how I got good bass from a small space..

I don’t have any pictures of my old ported 10 box, but I’ll describe it best I can. It was a wedge shaped box behind the drivers side back seat of a first gen Toyota Tacoma, I used 2” diameter pvc pipes for external ports, two of them, about 16” long each if memory is correct. I heated and formed the ports around the obstacles behind the seat (jack, lug wrench, etc). So picture a wedge box with twin pipes sticking out the side. Looked really goofy out of the truck, but installed it fit beautifully.

Agree about more displacement, I always thought of porting as effectively increasing the displacement.
 

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I tried a single 2” port first and it had some noise for sure, there was a faint honking sort of thing going on. When I went to two ports they had to be a lot longer but the noise was gone and it sounded better in every way, it was just more work to get them fit in. In the end it was totally worth the work, I had a ported 10 in the space my local installers said would barely fit a sealed 8. In fact I started with a sealed JL 8, the ported 10 I ended up having was way better in every way.
 

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I'm not sure I have the depth for a 12. But I'd love to research any recommendations you have!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
What kind of depth are we working with?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I believe about 5.75". Maybe 6" max clear, but that puts the magnet right on the spare tire wheel metal.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
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