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Discussion Starter #1
New vehicle, new project! :)

I now have a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the UConnect 4C 8.4" with 6 speaker system (non Alpine, non Harmon). Looking to add a subwoofer while retaining an OEM look. For reference, the 2018 is identical to the 2017.

The no-brainer answer is a JL Stealthbox (10w3v3) powered by a mono 500watt amp. However, I have a few questions about this product:

Has anyone ever heard this sub before? Does it sound good?

Was it hard to install? I do not have the factory sub, so it will be a virgin install.

Are there any other subwoofer enclosures or do I have to run the Stealthbox?

How do I connect this to my stock head unit?

Does this audio system have amplified output from the head unit, or does it connect to an external amplifier?
 

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Discussion Starter #2

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Finally finished my audiophile system install. It's absolutely amazing! Very powerful, high quality, loud, balanced, and has an impressive range. Sounds great with all types of music and hits extremely deep with rap/dubstep. Turned up all the way actually makes my whole body tremble long after turning it back down. Here is the setup:


Front Doors:
SPR-50C - Alpine Component

Rear Doors:
SPR-50 - Alpine Coaxial
Installer tried SPR-69 first, but said they were too deep and did not fit.

Sub:
HO110-W6v3 - JL Audio 10" H.O.
All I can say is holy crap! Listening in the store does not do this sub justice.

Amp for Sub:
MRV-M500 - Alpine 500 x 1 (2 ohm)
Installed in the hidden compartment under the driver seat.

Amp for Door Speakers:
KTP-445U - Alpine 45 x 4 (4 ohm)
Installed in the dash, behind the head unit.

LOC for Sub:
LP7-2R - PAC 2 Channel with Bass Knob
Bass knob installed to the right of the headlight switch.

LOC for Door Speakers:
LP7-4 - PAC 4 Channel

Amp Wiring Kit:
Stinger 6000 4 Guage Kit

Sound Deadening:
4x M.E.S.A. Door Kits

Installed Price:
$2200


My review:
I listen to everything from Rap, Rock, Metal, Classic Rock, Country, Dubstep, and Pop. So far, no songs have disappointed me in this setup. The sound quality is absolutely spot on. Nearly every instrument is clearly reproduced when listening to a symphony. The sub does not overpower the door speakers, but instead, add impact the higher I turn up the knob. My ears are still ringing.

Pros:
Amazing sound quality. Accurate tight bass. Clear reproduction of all instruments. Stealth system; the only component visible is the subwoofer enclosure in the cargo area. Did not lose my stock equalizer (bass-mid-treble), balance, fade, or volume controls. Bluetooth, SXM, Nav are all mixed in the head unit, so I retained all of my stock controls, including steering wheel knobs.

Cons:
Turning up to an ear bleeding volume causes some crackling in the tweeters. Would prefer 6x9's in the rear doors for better mid bass. Too much treble, had to set my treble to -9 to balance the sound.


Pictures coming soon! Although everything is stealth so there's not much to show.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Attached are some pictures. I could not get pictures of the LOCs or door amp because they are behind the dash.

Now that I've "dated" this system for a few days, I'm starting to notice a major tuning issue. When I run a sweep from 20hz - 20Khz, the sound is pretty much non existant between 50hz -100hz. The door speakers take over around 100hz.

Any advice on how to get this sub to hit from 20hz - 100hz? Crossover on the amp is set to 100hz.

I noticed some other ranges drop off slightly as well. Should I swap out the LOCs for a DSP? Such as the JL FiX-86?
 

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Slowpoke
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Attached are some pictures. I could not get pictures of the LOCs or door amp because they are behind the dash.

Now that I've "dated" this system for a few days, I'm starting to notice a major tuning issue. When I run a sweep from 20hz - 20Khz, the sound is pretty much non existant between 50hz -100hz. The door speakers take over around 100hz.

Any advice on how to get this sub to hit from 20hz - 100hz? Crossover on the amp is set to 100hz.

I noticed some other ranges drop off slightly as well. Should I swap out the LOCs for a DSP? Such as the JL FiX-86?
No response between 50-100 Hz? Weird. Can you post images of the sweeps? Getting down to 20 Hz in a meaningful way with that setup isn't going to happen. It will play that low, but not loud enough to keep up with everything else.

Yeah, you could probably use a DSP. Hard to do much tuning without one.

I'd strap that enclosure down too if it's just sitting there - f=ma :rolleyes:
 

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I have a 15 wk2. The issues your dealing with are related to the 8.4 dash system. The original system is “optimized “ for the existing speakers ets with their own eq and processing built in. The eq is not a very good option outside of adjusting a few bands preprogrammed into the system. Point is a dsp is going to be the only way to straighten things out. I did not realize the power or the value of a dsp until I drank the coolaid and installed one. The difference is amazing. There is nothing wrong with your system but you simply need the processing power or a dsp but also a way to get rid of the oem processing. Not sure but I believe the processing is in the amp so it should be fine the way you have it now as long as your putting the pak before the amp.
 

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Isn't there a PAC piece that allows the complete removal of the factory amp / processing?
 

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Yep. AmpPRO 4
PART NUMBER: AP4-CH41
But this does not give any eq/ta functions.
This is actually what he needs as well as a dsp
 

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That PAC piece only works on factory amplified systems.

A FiX82+TwKD8 would be a good combo for him. Using basic LOCs on these modern cars is just not cutting it anymore. It will be an improvement over sound but leaves alot to be desired.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the replies. Been busy with the holidays so I was not able to respond sooner.

The Ampro will not work because I do not have a factory amp. The base 8.4 is 4 channel amped out the back of the radio.

I've been in contact with the installer and decided to install a JL FiX-86 in place of the LOCs. Hopefully this will fix the factory eq and give back the 50-80hz range. They are also going to open up the door speaker crossovers down to 80hz. Hopefully this resolves the missing sound issue.

I'll post results at the end of the month when I can finally get into the shop. Dang remote start season haha.

In the meantime, has anyone listened to the HO110 before? Does it have a flat enough response and hit high enough to handle kick drums in country and rock music? Frequency response is listed as 22-200. I assure you it hits the low notes great, but I am also hoping it hits high bass as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Finally had a chance to install the FiX-86 with DRC-200. It has completely restored my lost frequency range.


tl;dr - I went through several tuning methods before finding the right sound, but I finally got it right!


Full story:

Physically, it was more of a challenge than expected to install the FiX due to the limited space behind the dash. The FiX ended up wedged under the passenger dash around the heat ducts. Used an old USB-A printer cable for the configuration port and left it wound up behind the carpet by the center console for easy access.

Major issue: the radio kept shutting down when turning it up. This is a safety feature of the head unit when it detects no load (DSP has no load) from a blown speaker. To resolve this issue, an additional load sensing adapter had to be installed.

Tuning was also an issue.

After the install, there was a lot of engine noise coming through the speakers. The pitch changed with the RPMs. To resolve this, we had to reground the door amplifier and back it off from max gain. While in there, we turned off the crossovers and left the amp wide open.

At this point everything was popping and rattling. Using the Tun software, I set the crossovers for the door speakers and subwoofer at 80hz.

It sounded good, but the subwoofer kept popping at high volumes. Turns out the HO110 cannot handle frequency above 63hz. Used the Tun software again to change the sub crossover to 63hz and the popping went away.

At this point, the ear bleeding treble needed to be adjusted. I used the equalizer in the Tun software with unfortunate results. Lowering the eq made the speakers sound very distant. To resolve, I turned off the Tun EQ and adjusted my radio EQ: -2 bass, -2 mid, -4 treble.

Finally, tuned and sounding amazing! Tons of volume, tons of power.

Future Improvements: Ideally I'd like to swap in some 6x9's to restore my 60-80hz range, but I'll save that project for another day.



Alas, here is the completed system with final cost -

Front Doors:
SPR-50C - Alpine Component
Tons of volume, crystal clear, no distortion, no bass

Rear Doors:
SPR-50 - Alpine Coaxial
Tons of volume, crystal clear, no distortion, no bass

Sub:
HO110-W6v3 - JL Audio 10" H.O.
Huge output, smooth deep bass, will not hit above 63hz without popping.

Amp for Sub:
MRV-M500 - Alpine 500 x 1 (2 ohm)
Installed in the hidden compartment under the driver seat. Gain is around 75%. No crossovers set.

Amp for Door Speakers:
KTP-445U - Alpine 45 x 4 (4 ohm)
Installed in the dash, just underneath and to the side of the head unit. Gains are around 90%. No crossovers set.

DSP:
FIX-86 - JL Audio with upgraded firmware to utilize the Tun Software
DRC-200 - JL Audio w/ Bass and Volume
Works perfectly to level your sound, EQ is questionable. Tun is easy to use. DRC-200 feels cheap, but that's fine because I never adjust it. I always use the radio volume. Adding the DSP improved the SPL of the sub considerably.

Amp Wiring Kit:
Stinger 6000 4 Guage Kit

Sound Deadening:
4x M.E.S.A. Door Kits
Wish I would have installed a kit on my roof and rear hatch. With the extra output caused by the DSP, my mirrors now rattle beyond visible recognition, roof flexes enough to make a metal tingy sound, and back hatch rattles like a trunk lid.

Extra Hardware:
CL-LSA - JL Audio Load Sensing Interface Adapter
3x RCA Cables

Final Installed Price:
$3000



Everything is stealth so there are no pictures that I could provide beyond what I've already shown. I will post pics of the stock speakers with measurements that were taken out of the doors in case anyone wants to use the info as reference. Stay tuned. :)
 

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I'm wondering if that mono alpine has the guts to run that JL 110.
It may not be the woofer at fault, it could be a hard clip from the amp.
Does it sound like a " FRAPP " noise ?
If so the amp could be running out of power.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I'm wondering if that mono alpine has the guts to run that JL 110.
It may not be the woofer at fault, it could be a hard clip from the amp.
Does it sound like a " FRAPP " noise ?
If so the amp could be running out of power.
Starting to wonder this myself. Not just with the amp but also the DSP or even the head unit.

Unfortunately the popping sound returned today without changing anything. When it pops, the sub briefly shuts off. When there are multiple pops in a row, it acts as if it cannot recover without turning it down. This only happens at high volumes and seems to occur with higher bass in pop music.

The noise is not a FRAPP but more of a POP. The DSP was tuned at head unit volume 28, which is 1 under clipping.

How do I check for clipping in the signal? I do not own an oscilloscope.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I took a video of the popping noise. The mic is not the greatest but the popping is very distinct, especially when I get close to the sub toward the end.

https://youtu.be/b-sqyAfjyog

Can anyone audibly tell me what the issue could be?
 

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Ok, watched the vid :
That " sounds " like the sub is bottoming out !
Do you have a subsonic filter engaged ?
If not, set a high pass filter for the sub, start at 30 hz or so.
Try 30hz at 18db.

This sound ( hard to tell with a phone mic ) could be the amp clipping, but try
a ssf filter first and see if that helps.

Im not sure if the fix82 has the capabilty of a high pass for the sub, ive never
seen the fix82, but the alpine amp should have an adjustable subsonic filter on it.
 

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Something is wrong if the sub cannot play above 63hz. From 20-63hz the sub is working much harder than from 63hz and up. The higher the frequency, the easier it is on the sub. It sounds like you initially started with the amp gain maxed (which will almost always be wrong), so I'm wondering if you've got some other settings terribly wrong. If the sub is bottoming out at 63hz, it would be much worse below that, not above it.
 

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Something is wrong if the sub cannot play above 63hz. From 20-63hz the sub is working much harder than from 63hz and up. The higher the frequency, the easier it is on the sub. It sounds like you initially started with the amp gain maxed (which will almost always be wrong), so I'm wondering if you've got some other settings terribly wrong. If the sub is bottoming out at 63hz, it would be much worse below that, not above it.
I would agree. I’ve had the ho10 and it was probably my favorite single sub setup ever. Ran it off a RF punch1000 and. Prime r500x1d. Both made it sound great and it was ran through a Audio control lc2 loc. Any type of music sounded super. I would inspect the sub itself and if it’s ok then I would try another amp that has a clipping setting for people like me that can’t hear it easily. The punch and the jl rd amps have done great for me. Also I hear you on the treble. The type r scream.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Thanks for the responses. I've listened to other videos of subs bottoming out and they seem to rattle instead of pop. Also, the popping sound occurs more above 60hz. Below 60hz sounds great. Doesn't bottoming out only happen at low bass?

The amp gain could definitely be an issue. Going to start there by turning it down to see what happens.

Unfortunately my amp does not have a sub sonic filter.

Any other suggestions?

Does anyone have a YouTube video that sweeps from 20 to 100hz with a visual of hz onscreen that sounds true?
 

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To fine out a few things maybe try test tones at a moderate volume of course to find out what’s going on. I had a sub that that popped like that and it was bottoming out. It was the wrong box size and power. Changed both and it was fine. Changed to ported box and a bigger amp.
 
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