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13av.2 will do it for under $400. so will the AE 15. and a pair of JBL gto15's. also a dayton ho 10. some e3.8's would sound good and they're only 65 each.

i hope you see the error here... we need more information.

space? do you have an enclosure? sealed, ported or IB?
 

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I am looking for a subwoofer for SQ
what do you recommend?
my budget is $ 400
"SQ" of a sub has more to do with building the proper box for whatever you choose more than anything else IMHO. Knowing what the rest of your system consists of, what kind of acoustic treatments you plan to use, what kind of power you have available, and what vehicle it's going in will get you a more detailed answer.
 

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What type of vehicle, how big can it ( the sub enclosure) be. What type of music, "SQ" can mean many things to many people. how much power will you have to work with? what other speakers is it complementing?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I apologize for not giving many details, but I speak little English.
the subwoofer is of 1000 RMS , to hear a variety of music, opera, classical, rock, pop etc.
sealed in a box
 

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If you have the midbass to go with it, a 15" will dig as deep as you need it to, otherwise a good 12 would do great, like the peerless xxls 12
 

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I really don't think the cone diameter has anything to do with the depth of the response... In fact, I know there are several threads about that very topic.

That having been said, I saw a review of a HAT 6.5" woofer in a custom built box that reportedly produced similar output to 2 10" subwoofers. That woofer was getting around 200W RMS IIRC.

The JBL GTI is a very popular choice.

I was going to go with a 12" JL W6. Just because you have 1500W RMS doesn't mean that you have to use it all.
 

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I really don't think the cone diameter has anything to do with the depth of the response... In fact, I know there are several threads about that very topic.

That having been said, I saw a review of a HAT 6.5" woofer in a custom built box that reportedly produced similar output to 2 10" subwoofers. That woofer was getting around 200W RMS IIRC.

The JBL GTI is a very popular choice.

I was going to go with a 12" JL W6. Just because you have 1500W RMS doesn't mean that you have to use it all.
That is why I said enclosure was more important than the speaker. That being said, displacement is the key to output. A 15" sub in the right box is hard to beat.

To the OP, I really like the JBL GTi subs if you can handle the depth.
 

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That is why I said enclosure was more important than the speaker. That being said, displacement is the key to output. A 15" sub in the right box is hard to beat.
I just want to clarify that my comment wasn't directed at you.

Bass is all about moving air, so I agree with displacement being key for output. But from my understanding, the frequency response doesn't depend on the cone size.

I wish that I had more capability to experiment with box design and that I actually understood how to use WinISD. I would love to be able to build the perfect box for a sub.
 

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But from my understanding, the frequency response doesn't depend on the cone size.
It definitely helps with the quality of the reproduction. If that was the case we could run 1" tweeters all over the car for 20-20kHz..
 

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It definitely helps with the quality of the reproduction. If that was the case we could run 1" tweeters all over the car for 20-20kHz..
Understood. I guess that I'll have to do a bit more research on it and improve my understanding. I'm interested to know the extent to which other factors play a role.

Last off topic post from me, I promise. :)
 

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It definitely helps with the quality of the reproduction. If that was the case we could run 1" tweeters all over the car for 20-20kHz..
Understood. I guess that I'll have to do a bit more research on it and improve my understanding. I'm interested to know the extent to which other factors play a role.

Last off topic post from me, I promise. :)
A tweeter will produce 20 hertz just fine just like a 18" sub will produce 20000 hertz just fine. Just remember that the tweeter will have issues producing the spl required to hear that 20 hertz unless you are wearing that tweeter. Think of headphones. Some of them have amazing frequency response and use 1" voice coil or less.

The sub reference producing the high end comes down to cone breakup and Inductance lowering the output to inaudible levels. Still vibrating 20000 time a second.
 

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A tweeter will produce 20 hertz just fine just like a 18" sub will produce 20000 hertz just fine. Just remember that the tweeter will have issues producing the spl required to hear that 20 hertz unless you are wearing that tweeter. Think of headphones. Some of them have amazing frequency response and use 1" voice coil or less.

The sub reference producing the high end comes down to cone breakup and Inductance lowering the output to inaudible levels. Still vibrating 20000 time a second.
At the risk of breaking my promise...

It's all about the amount of air that the sound wave has to travel in, is what I'm gathering. In the case of headphones, low frequency reproduction does not require a large-coned driver because there aren't many air molecules in the ear canal upon which to impart energy.

That statement, however, does not negate the importance of a larger cone area in a car type setting. There is significantly more air to energize in a car than in an ear canal, and a larger cone area facilitates this process (larger as in larger than a tweeter).

The question then becomes the efficiency of the driver-- that is to say how much air the driver can energize considering how much power is given to it. Does that have to do with cone size all of the time, or are there other factors? I would imagine that some 10" drivers can impart more energy than some 15" drivers, so there must be more to it than how much air you can move.

Also, I understand that the enclosure plays a huge part-- often a bigger part than the driver (ie. my HAT 6.5" driver example).

And we're back on topic... kinda.
 
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