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Hi, I am thinking of adding 2nd battery and replacing stk amp with comp amp. I have a 2K10 Lincoln MKZ, the headlights currently dim, when the system is cranked up. The amps

Will adding a 2nd battery and upgrading the stk amp resolve this issue?

I have a 13W7 with JL Audio 1200 amp, Focals up front (K2/KRX2) and in the rears (K2/EC165K), powered by JL Audio HD600/4. The stk rear doors are tied to the stk radio. Dsp is Mosconi 6 to 8. I don't want to be adding hardware, if I am not gonna see/hear the difference. .Any and all suggestions are welcomed. Thanks in advance.
 

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Tbh you may see a difference in the headlight dimming, but you won't notice much (if any) difference in SQ by adding a 2nd battery. You're system isn't large enough to warrant it imho. That JL amp is class D so it's pretty efficient. As long as you're happy with the way it sounds, I wouldn't worry about it.

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How old is the current battery? With a healthy electrical system, there's no reason you should have dimming with that amp. It's class D, and isn't pulling much current. There is no reason you should need 2 batteries, one good battery is more than enough for that setup.
 

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How old is the current battery? With a healthy electrical system, there's no reason you should have dimming with that amp. It's class D, and isn't pulling much current. There is no reason you should need 2 batteries, one good battery is more than enough for that setup.
Agreed.

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The dimming is more than likely a not so great ground. I'm running 3 Mosconi AS amps in my truck with zero dimming issues but I have it grounded to the frame.
 

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Yeah, I might experiment w/ grounding the amp somewhere else & make sure it's on the frame. Also scrape the paint off to bare metal before you tighten the nut down & see where that gets you.

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Sry for being a novice, but are you talking about an 1/0 wire from amp to chassis? If not, then where should the ground be?
 

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One more thing, the installer tells me my alternator light will stay on, if I get and h/o alternator. Does this make sense? The h/o alternator mfg is Ohio Generator.
 

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If you're not seeing terrible voltage drops it might just be your headlights. Halogens are notoriously bad for flicker.
 

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One more thing, the installer tells me my alternator light will stay on, if I get and h/o alternator. Does this make sense? The h/o alternator mfg is Ohio Generator.
I would start with measuring the current load, and checking the groups as previously mentioned.
If the current load is higher than the alternator's output then a new alternator is warranted. without knowing then it is just a ol guess.
It is likely that 'they' would replace the ground and positive cable which could appear like a new alternator solved the problem, when it was just the cables all along.

You really need some good information to make a rational decision, and that starts with amperage draw measurements (IMO).

Doing some cable and ground work would not be wasted effort, if you want to approach it by actually do something other than measurements... So that is also a reasonable way to start (IMO).
 
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