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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone

I have been a keen follower of DIYMA and finally decided to make an account to share my setup and the upgrades here. :)

So it started from this beauty which I bought a year ago. Its a Suzuki Swift in Pearl Blue color. Its a pretty decent hatchback with good acoustic environment and powerful engine. The color is my favorite and an eye-candy for detailers ;)


Suzuki Swift DLX by Yawar Masood, on Flickr​

So I will be sharing my build log and entire setup along with upgrades here.

This is the list to equipment I have tested and installed in my ride. It all has been a pleasure experience. Since there is unavailability of high-end components where I live, to me this has been pretty much Kick-Ass but I wish to improve further..

Setup (SQ)

Source
- Kenwood KDC-X7013U (24bit DSP & DTA)

Front Stage
- Morel Elate 6 3-ways
- Harman Kardon Infinity Reference 6030cs [Replaced]

Amplification
- Adcom GFA-4402 (Class A)
- Pioneer GM-6500F (Class A/B)
- Pioneer GM-3500T (Class A/B) [Replaced]

Sub Driver
- Pioneer TS-WX22A Active Subwoofer

Wiring
- Stinger 4awg wires (Power+Ground)
- Stinger 4awg fuse holder
- Stinger 150amp fuse
- Xscorpion QSP18 Interconnect
- Xscorpion QS15 Interconnect
- Xscorpion 16awg Hyper Twist speaker wire
- Zamix 8awg + speaker wiring [Replaced]

Sound Dampening
- Peel & Seal (DIY)
- Jumbolon (DIY)

Feel free to check it out and leave a comment on how I can improve it further.. :rolleyes:

- Yawar
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Beginning

So I basically started off with a pair of Infinity components powered by a Pioneer 2ch amplifier and some normal 8g amplifier wiring kit. The head unit was a built in one so had to get is replaced by installing a proper fascia and then putting in a 1-din HU with good active capabilities.

I was interested in getting a good sound system in my previous car but by the time I had enough budget to put one in it, its time to go had come. So I bid farewell to that until Swift came and with special assistance of a friend I got some audio goodies for Swift.

The front stock speakers were replaced by components and they were then run on an amplifier.

The purchase consisted of

- Infinity Reference 6030cs6-3/4" component speaker system
- Pioneer GM-3500T - 400 Watts
- Zamix 8AWG Wiring kit

So my setup in the beginning looked like this...

Alpine build in dashboard stock HU for Swift


Infinity Components 6030cs (best 2ways for budget I've ever listened!)

Kick-ass midbass!


The balanced tweets


Pioneer amplifier Gm-3500T (running Infinity passive)


After this setup, the sound was crisp and awesome. The mid-bass had some serious power and the tweeters were excellent performers for highs. I had the option of Pioneer D1720C but after a lot of consultation from Audio Gurus and personal testing I went for Infinity. Amazing vocals and unlike the Pioneer, which to me were very very bright, these were too balanced.

Till now they have worked perfectly and I have been enjoying my trips with the great quality music flowing from these speakers which are a treat to the ears.

However Swift's doors are not that awesome in deadening and hence upon increasing the volume with bass high they tend to vibrate. So my next move was to deaden them.


my passion for photography...

 

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Like the color of the car and your photography. Post the installation pics

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sound Deadening

This setup was pretty much kickass for a beginner like me. The sound very natural and smooth with no shrills or over thumping bass. The vocals were clear on Infinity Reference as anything, being powered by the Pioneer amplifier and source being the Alpine HU.
Then I had to head to a different segment and perhaps the most important part of an Audio build...Deadening. Since the branded Dynamat and other sound deadening materials were expensive as anything, I decided to give a try to the cheaper alternative. They were a tad lesser effective as the might dynamat or roadkill but did a pretty decent job.

So initially this DIY is divided into 2 sections. The first one being the Jumbolon one and the second one would be the Peel and Seal one. ;)

The First one with Jumbolon was carried out today. Pictures shortly with details.

I got around 24 sq. ft. of Jumbolon for Swift's front doors but by the time I reached home I realized I had bought too much. 24 sq. ft. is enough to do the front doors + back doors + boot lid and still some piece would be left.

After a long discussion with an audiophile friend and upon his suggestion I decided to deaden the inner skin of the door with Jumbolon while the outer skin or the frame with Peel and Seal. My components: Infinity Reference 6030c used to make the door rattle like a piece of paper and I had to set the equalizer to flat for normal listening, so deadening them properly and efficiently was my utmost priority.
So according to him, I also has followed the same procedure like many other audiophiles, who suggested me the same.

Reason of this combination is that Jumbolon being of a foam type material would absorb all the distorted frequencies produced by the mid-bass and hence make the mid-bass more strong and accurate. Peel and Seal would do the the job of the actual sound deadener which will act as a wall to keep the outside noise out and the cabin audio noise in. It would also make the frame more rigid especially the area on which the mid-bass is attached to and hence remove the rattle and all the extra noise.

So today was the day on which Jumbolon was attached to the inner skin using Cementex (Samadbond type adhesive).

Tools used:
- Jumbolon itself (10mm thickness)
- Cementex Adhesive (small can)
- Chartpaper (for measuring the area)
- Scissors
- Cutter
- Degreaser (liquid)
- Clean cloth
- Pair of screwdrivers
- Pair of gloves (if youre afraid of getting hand dirty and nasty cuts)

Process:
1. The door trim was opened by removing 2 screws and many clips (I can guide Swift users for their ease in this step)
2. The plastic sheet was removed
3. Remove the speaker
4. Inner wall cleaned with Degreaser and clean cloth
5. Measurement taken by chartpaper in area that has to be attached with Jumbolon
6. Cutting Jumbolon according to the chartpaper's dimensions
7. Putting the adhesive solution on the back of the piece and then attaching it slowly
8. Doing it for all the parts
9. Voila

Note: Do not put back the door trim or the plastic sheet for at least a full day (preferably: 2 days). The smell of the adhesive needs to be ventilated well, keep the doors open and the windows down. Put the speaker only after 48 hours of applying Jumbolon and keeping the car in some ventilated place. Or else the speakers if attached immediately would be corroded by the chemicals released in the air by the fresh adhesive.

Enough of the talking, now pictures. :cool:


















Apologies for the low quality pictures, since my phone's camera back then was pretty sucky. :(
 

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Re: Pocket Rocket - Swift Build SQ

Ha!

I'd love to drive one of those cars. Everything here is big. I have the luxury of borrowing a Nissan Juke occasionally, and I have a lot of fun in it. That swift looks to be even lighter from what I've read.

Are you sure about using particle board for those speaker rings? If it's humid, those will fall apart in months.

Damn, also the adhesive. I don't thinks that's a good idea. Can someone chime in if he's gonna poison himself?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Pocket Rocket - Swift Build SQ

Ha!

I'd love to drive one of those cars. Everything here is big. I have the luxury of borrowing a Nissan Juke occasionally, and I have a lot of fun in it. That swift looks to be even lighter from what I've read.

Are you sure about using particle board for those speaker rings? If it's humid, those will fall apart in months.

Damn, also the adhesive. I don't thinks that's a good idea. Can someone chime in if he's gonna poison himself?
Hey
Yes its a pretty compact car for within city driving :)

Those were the previous spacers (speaker rings) I was using with Infinity. Those were used for about 6 months or so and lasted well enough, later you will find out what addition things I did with them to make them tougher and denser :)
And the current ones are MDF and painted over to make them more dense and waterproof :)

Yes adhesive is NOT a good idea but it was the only available option I had to use to make those sheets stick. So once I installed those sheets with the adhesive, I let the doors kept open for around 2-3 days with proper air ventilation to let all the fumes exhaust. After the 3rd day there wasn't any smell of the adhesive.
Yes I know its dangerous for the speaker coil as well as the human, but that was properly taken car off.. :)

More people can shed light on this...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sound Deadening - Boot

So this was the unexpected Stage 1.5 of my Sound Deadening DIY

I had spare Jumbolon lying around, so I thought why not sound deaden the boot. Initially I planned to only stick Jumbolon on the inner skin after removing the boot trim but then I had another idea and then put another layer for more deadeness

So the Jumbolon would let only some sound pass from the car, bikes and rickshaws honking behind me plus it would also improve the acoustics of the audio in side the car and make the cabin more quieter

So today only I decide to carry out this DIY and completed it in about 1.5 hrs or so.

Tools used:
- Jumbolon itself (10mm thickness)
- Cementex Adhesive (small can)
- Chartpaper (for measuring the area)
- Scissors
- Cutter
- Degreaser (liquid)
- Clean cloth
- Pair of screwdrivers
- Pair of gloves (if youre afraid of getting hand dirty and nasty cuts)

Process:
1. The boot trim was opened by removing 1 screw and many clips (I can guide Swift users for their ease in this step)
2. Inner wall cleaned with Degreaser and clean cloth
3. Measurement taken by chartpaper in area that has to be attached with Jumbolon
4. Cutting Jumbolon according to the chartpaper's dimensions in very small pieces are there is not much space given for hand to pass while sticking
5. Putting the adhesive solution on the back of the piece and then attaching it slowly
6. Doing it for all the parts
7. Voila

Note: Do not put back the boot trim for at least a full day (preferably: 2 days). The smell of the adhesive needs to be ventilated well, keep the doors open and the windows down.

Pictures time. ;)

The boot frame (5th door as they call it) after cleaning with degreaser



The First patch applied



One side is done



Completion of the other side



Working area



The boot lid. Existing pieces of foam were removed and pieces of Jumbolon were applied for better grip







All foam pieces covered with Jumbolon



Another big piece of Jumbolon cut out in the shape of the boot trim and will act as a cushion between the frame and the boot lid. Won't be sticking one as it would be firmly held between the tiny space, so need for any adhesive.




Boot trim prepared and will be put back in place after a day or two, when all the fumes from the boot frame have been exhausted.




Took 1.5 hours and the boot upon closing gave a big BOOM and released quite an air pressure. So means that there is some progess.

Fingers crossed for 2 more days till when the project would be completed
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sound Deadening - Front doors

So finally on the 3rd day of the project, 'Sound deadening my Doors', I completed the project and was very much satisfied with the results. The results are awesome and the mid-bass is just showing its wonders. Infinity really produces some lovely music. The mid-bass is more responsive now and the cabin acoustics have improved significantly. The deadening is keeping the outside noise out, while making the cabin more comfortable with clear music filling it. I'm just afraid I might doze off sometime while driving it just kidding

So this time the Stage 2 of the DIY project nearly took over 6 hours, yes 6 damned hours. My hands are scratched and my fingers hurt badly, I have developed severe pain in my legs and I am just dead tired, but the results of this DIY give me a big smile of satisfaction. There is no more satisfaction than doing you own work with your own bare hands with full dedication and attention while at the same time learning the most out of it.
Also the doors now gives the noise of a BOOM (sonic boom wala, not Afridi) instead of the THUD when slammed closed
Enough of the talking I'll now explain the process

Tools used:
- Peel and Seal (around 1ft x 16-18ft roll, about 2ft still left)
- Chart paper (for measuring the area)
- A small roller (picture, I couldn't find it so used balls)
- Pair of balls (1 hard ball and 1 tennis ball, to use in case of unavailability of roller)
- Heat gun (not a compulsion, cheaper alternative is listed too)
- Hair Dryer (alternative to the heat gun)
- Scissors
- Cutter
- De-greaser (liquid)
- Clean cloth
- Pair of screwdrivers
- Pair of gloves (if you are afraid of getting hand dirty and nasty cuts)

That is it I guess, Now the process itself...

Process
1. I cleaned the outer frame again with a de-greaser and a clean cloth
2. Took measurements with a newspaper (I suggest chart paper) and then cut up the pieces for one door
3. Then copy the cut out part on other piece, like mirror copy, for the other door
4. After that the wooden frame for the mid-bass needs to be removed
5. Cleaned that area and applied bigger piece than the circular shape over there
6 First just pasted it with fingers and rubbed it with the tennis ball for grip
7. then used a hair dryer to make a bit soft and then rubbed it again with the hard ball (remember this step and the above one as they were applied each time a piece of Peel and Seal was used, REMEMBER IT)
8. Pierced a small hole and then folded the rest of the Peel and Seal sheet inside. This gave the door frame a more rigid structure to handle against the mid-bass.
9. Applied another piece, just as the size of the wooden frame and applied it for the better grip of the wooden frame.
10. placed the wooden frame and fixed it there with its screws
11. cut out another shape, as the same as of the wooden frame, and applied if on the base to make it stronger. (See the pictures for better understanding)
12. First just pasted it with fingers and rubbed it with the tennis ball for grip
13. make sure to avoid holes that carry the door panel's clips
14. applied it all over the door in different pieces as per the wire adjustments (as I wanted to keep them out) and how are your door holes geographically located
15. applied the hairdryer all over the Peel and Seal applied area on the door and then used the hard ball to flatten out any discrepancies
16. attached the plastic sheet back on the door
17. attached the door panel back to the frame and secured it by its clips and screws
18. Voila!

Also! The boot lid housing was also attached back to the boot lid and it secured perfectly, except 1 stupid clip about which I will investigate later. Was too tired, but TOTALLY worth it!

Picture time

wood baffle removed


Hairdryer used in the process


Cutter used to cut out the shape. Scissor was also used


Hair dryer used to soften up the sheet so that it sticky easily


hard ball used to smoothen out and strengthen the hold


the middle part was cut and folder inside for more rigidity


The final result of 1 sheet


The second door being done the same exact way


The final result after the wooden baffle was put back. Total of 3 layers were applied, 2 between the baffle and door and 1 between the baffle and mid-bass


The other one being done


The first sheet attached to half of the door. measuring it was a pain in the behind


how the door looked


hairdryer being used to make it soft for more easy applicability


pieces were cut in a way so that the wires comes out from the inside of the door frame could easily move about, while the pieces that were cut were bonded by another piece of Peel and Seal


The left door completely done, mid-bass left to being fixed


The door completely done and the plastic sheet attached



Sorry for the poor camera quality again, although the phone's camera is 5mp it sucks big time

After that, gave a demo and the performance was Amazing. The mid-bass was performing as if it had been given a new life into it, the highs sounded more clear in the silent and compact cabin.
So for the demo, I did 2 tests. I will explain the results as much as I can for now. For those more eager listen to it, can listen it on the Karachi GTG on Sunday Its NO Focal so keep your expectations a but low. Was too lazy to carry my DSLR for covering this but in future will post some videos and pictures from it

Note: these tests and project was according to my knowledge and preferences, which can be easily countered but since I'm just learning, constructive criticism is acceptable which will help me to learn

Test 1 - SQL test (SPL with SQ in it)
- Tried bass tracks like; Like a G6, Lollipop, What Goes Around Comes Around - All at 320kbps in MP3 format
- Turned the bass to +4 (goes up to 8) while everything was flat (at 0, which includes treble, balance and fader)
- The doors started acting like an enclosure!
- The door did NOT rattle at all and instead the door showed 'serious' flexing from the outside!
- The highs were clear, while the mid-bass was doing its magic perfectly.
- Door mirrors were vibrating as well as the rear-view mirror ( felt proud )

Test 2 - SQ tracks (pure SQ)
- Tried quality music tracks with instruments and clear vocals like; Everything I Do (Bryan Adams), Far Away (Nickelback) and few Indian tracks - All at 320kbps in MP3 format
- Turned everything to flat (at 0 which included bass, treble, fader, balance)
- The doors just acted liked closed space and a hall like feeling with instruments playing all around me
- There was absolutely no sound except of the music from the doors as compared to the rattle previously heard (w/o deadening)
- The highs were crystal clear (less air pressure level because of less bass) with the mid-bass giving a perfect tune to all the tones. Performance from the mid-bass was HIGHLY commendable
- Nothing vibrated except my heart for the awesome feeling. SQ SQ SQ SQ

* might have missed something, will update if I remember.
** i talk a lot and write even more, hence the length essay type descriptions
*** sorry for the above two points. Just kidding, Who cares, I am loving my music even more now Hell yeah

Special thanks to 2 friends for guiding me in every aspect..
I hope I did justice to the DIY of 'Sound Deadening my car'

Feel free to leave your comments and constructive criticism
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Discussion Starter #14
HU upgrade, Alpine to Kenwood

Then came the HU upgrade, shifted from the factory Alpine to the much customizable Kenwood HU with active support and built in DSP.

Kenwood KDC-X7013U

Features:
-Maximum Output Power : 50W x 4 (MOSFET Power IC)
-Built In Amp Mute Function
-4V 3 Preouts
-Built-in DSP and DTA
-Subwoofer Level & Low Pass Filter Adjustable
-System E's(HPF & LPF)
-24bit D/A Converter
-iPod 1 wire Direct Connection

A daylight picture of my recent Audio upgrade


Kenwood KDC-X7013U by Yawar Masood, on Flickr


3 RCA Output by Yawar Masood, on Flickr

The Control lighting matching with the console and button's back-lighting while the screen set according to my preference


Kenwood KDC-X7013U by Yawar Masood, on Flickr
 

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Re: Pocket Rocket: Swift SQ Build - Morel, Adcom, Pioneer, Kenwood, Stinger

Nice work!

I've just bought one of these cars so the title of your thread got my attention. Hopefully I'll be able to post up my own build log soon, just as soon as I decide which way I want to go with it (currently thinking of a minimalist install although something more exotic might just be on the cards). In the mean time I'm subscribing to this thread for some inspiration.
 

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Re: Pocket Rocket: Swift SQ Build - Morel, Adcom, Pioneer, Kenwood, Stinger

Those particular Infinity's make massive bass in my Fiesta - zero sound deadening. They sound great, too... almost so go I half decided not to put a further system into it!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Re: Pocket Rocket: Swift SQ Build - Morel, Adcom, Pioneer, Kenwood, Stinger

Dig the use of the cricket ball- inswinger right? :laugh:
Exactly! ;)

Nice work!

I've just bought one of these cars so the title of your thread got my attention. Hopefully I'll be able to post up my own build log soon, just as soon as I decide which way I want to go with it (currently thinking of a minimalist install although something more exotic might just be on the cards). In the mean time I'm subscribing to this thread for some inspiration.
Thankyou. Waiting for your thread as well :)
Yep a lot more to come here...

Those particular Infinity's make massive bass in my Fiesta - zero sound deadening. They sound great, too... almost so go I half decided not to put a further system into it!
I have replaced them now with something even greater, but I still miss their kick, it was right in the heart. Amazing bass potential by the mid bass and the tweeters were as balanced as anything. At 2ohm, loved their power handling! :D

Do check out the JBL MS-62c. Its a pretty great comp and im assuming better than this Infinity...a decent upgrade IMO :)
 

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Re: Pocket Rocket: Swift SQ Build - Morel, Adcom, Pioneer, Kenwood, Stinger

interesting that you both like the 6030cs set, those are what i originally put in my 98 civic and they're what brought me to diyma, lol. i couldn't get them out soon enough. tweeters were awful on-axis in the kicks and the mids had awful midbass, even compared to the jl tr coaxials that were in the car when i bought it.

different cars, different acoustics :) i've been curious what they would sound like mounted to solid baffles instead of on the door card like stock and with a deadened/sealed door, but it'd be a pain to get them out of the truck they went into and i sold the civic. they do sound a lot better and far more smooth in the truck they're in, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Re: Pocket Rocket: Swift SQ Build - Morel, Adcom, Pioneer, Kenwood, Stinger

interesting that you both like the 6030cs set, those are what i originally put in my 98 civic and they're what brought me to diyma, lol. i couldn't get them out soon enough. tweeters were awful on-axis in the kicks and the mids had awful midbass, even compared to the jl tr coaxials that were in the car when i bought it.

different cars, different acoustics :) i've been curious what they would sound like mounted to solid baffles instead of on the door card like stock and with a deadened/sealed door, but it'd be a pain to get them out of the truck they went into and i sold the civic. they do sound a lot better and far more smooth in the truck they're in, though.
Mine were installed on solid baffles and the door was turned into an enclosure by the deadening material inside out. By the time I had Infinity 6030cs, I had already auditioned Focal PS165 and Focal V30 Anniversary Ed. and to me these Infinity though were not par to them but were decent components ignoring the debate of natural vs. bright output. They give tough competition to the Access line up of Focal and to me they were great.

My tweets were firing at opposite site headrests and the midbass performed beautifully. Yep prolly, different car, different acoustics :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Default Addtion of Xscorpion Interconnect RCA cables

Xscorpion Quad Shield RCA Interconnect Cables

The Xscorpion Quad Shield RCA Interconnect Cables deliver serious high quality audio and extreme durability. As with all Xscorpion products, you can be assured that these QS Series RCA Interconnects are manufactured for flawless, immaculate performance and innovative technology. These RCA's are available from 6 feet to 18 feet in length and will definitely enhance the audio quality of your sound system.

The Xscorpion QS18 is the 18-foot version in this series and features 8-cut turbine male connectors. The platinum spiral twisted conductors eliminate unwanted noise interference while the gold-plated connectors provide ultimate conductivity and corrosion resistance. This durable interconnect cable also features integral strain reliefs, clear protective jacket, and color coded connectors for easy installation.


Product Features
  • Quad Shield Platinum RCA Interconnect Cable
  • Oxygen-free copper conductors ensure the highest quality of signal transfer
  • Quad shielded design for ultimate noise rejection
  • Color-coded channel identification
  • Integral strain reliefs provide excellent durability
  • Split-Tip connector allows better signal transfer
  • Gold-Plated connectors for excellent signal transfer
  • Clear protective jacket looks great and minimizes friction for easy install
  • Directional twisted-pair construction provides protection against interference
  • Delivers full dynamic sound stage
8-Cut Turbine connectors maximize surface area and creates higher contact mass for precision signal transfer

So got 2 sets of these

Xscorpion QSP18 - 18 Ft Quad Shield Platinum RCA Interconnect Cable
Xscorpion QS 15 - 15 Ft Quad Shield Platinum RCA Interconnect Cable


Pictures:


Xscorpion QSP18 by Yawar Masood, on Flickr


Xscorpion QSP18 by Yawar Masood, on Flickr


Xscorpion QSP18 by Yawar Masood, on Flickr


Xscorpion QSP18 by Yawar Masood, on Flickr


Xscorpion QSP18 by Yawar Masood, on Flickr
 
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