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I have not used the resonix, but I would be using that resonix or dynamat extreme.

There is another amazon peddled product, and seeing it falling off makes me think it was not great value.
The dynamat is sticking "like _hit to a blanket". (as the Aussies like to say.)
 

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Thanks. I think I’m gonna get 36sq ft of Dynamat and do the doors the tweeters and with whatever left do the rear coaxials. Now this will cost $150. Noico would cost $60. Is Dynamat worth it or just use Noico 80mil? Or double up on Noico 80mil?
As stated above doubling of CLD does very little. CLD converts vibrations into heat. It also adds a small amount of weight and stiffness.

There was a massive forum thread called sound deadening showdown where they tested almost every cld material out at the time and the two best where Knu Koncepts kolosis CLD and from someone in the community made sound deadening tiles that ended up being the best. Unfortunately you can no longer get those tiles.
Thats where Skiz32 (Nick from Apicella Auto sound) came in and created a company called Resonix that is dedicated to sound deadening to fill the gap. There is a thread where he talks about the amount of testing that went into his Product. You should check out his Facebook and Instagram pages to understand the quality of work and high standards that come from his companies.

At the end of the day if you're trying to stick to a budget get the Noico 80mil. But if your ordering anything more expensive than that I would go with Resonix. It costs a little more than Dynamat but you are getting a much better product for the money.
 

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I'm far from an expert on this subject, but I have used Noico 80-mil and Noico Liner on my "other" car and I actually had great results with it. I did the doors (inner and outer door skins), rear-deck and even the roof (was having bass-related vibrations from the headliner). It's been on for years and i haven't had any issues whatsoever. It *really* helped with the midbass in the doors (and completely solved the headliner issues). Before I purchased, I did a lot of research and found that Noico generally had very good reviews. Haven't researched the topic since then though.

That being said, I basically chose it as a less-expensive alternative to Dynamat. Again, it's been years and maybe the products have evolved a lot since then. Just giving my personal experience with it.
 

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EDIT #2: Okay I give up, DIYMA is posting my posts in the wrong threads now. Ignore this post. ADMINS FIX YOUR DATABASE PLEASE.
 

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As stated above doubling of CLD does very little. CLD converts vibrations into heat. It also adds a small amount of weight and stiffness.

There was a massive forum thread called sound deadening showdown where they tested almost every cld material out at the time and the two best where Knu Koncepts kolosis CLD and from someone in the community made sound deadening tiles that ended up being the best. Unfortunately you can no longer get those tiles.
Thats where Skiz32 (Nick from Apicella Auto sound) came in and created a company called Resonix that is dedicated to sound deadening to fill the gap. There is a thread where he talks about the amount of testing that went into his Product. You should check out his Facebook and Instagram pages to understand the quality of work and high standards that come from his companies.

At the end of the day if you're trying to stick to a budget get the Noico 80mil. But if your ordering anything more expensive than that I would go with Resonix. It costs a little more than Dynamat but you are getting a much better product for the money.
Spot on good solid advice here and well said ^^^
 

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My advice...search the hell out of anything you're thinking about buying. There are amazing deals out there to be had. Sometimes you have to look extra hard to find them. I've purchased Dynamat Extreme at $75 for 36 sq ft (bulk pack) with free shipping. If I recall, I ordered through Walmart (sold by some other obscure online company). Since I technically ordered it through Walmart, I wasn't worried that much about the vendor ripping me off. Walmart is big enough to make it right in the event the vendor fell through.

There are other GREAT sites out there for just about everything you need. I just purchased two Hertz passive crossovers for a tweeter/mid install for $45 each (brand new from an authorized dealer)...they retail for over $200 each. Crutchfield wanted $220 each. I should have ordered two more to sell and pay for the two I kept. Be very careful on ebay...doing your due diligence will save you a headache. There are amazing deals everyday here on this site. I probably saved over $1,000 building my last install, and everything was purchased from an authorized dealer of the brand I purchased. I easily saved a $1,000.

I recently purchased some mids from an authorized dealer in Australia and saved over $250, even including $36 shipping. I had to wait a few extra days, but the savings was worth it!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks for all the help guys. For front components I’m pretty sure I want to go with the Polk Audio DB6502. I chose these because they are supposed to be warm sounding speakers. The speakers in my car sound kinda harsh at loud volumes. So I thought warm speakers would fix this. The problem is I’ve read some reviews that they sound muddy. Any warm sounding speaker suggestions under $300? Thanks again
 

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I think maybe I’m going to go with infinity kappa 60csx? What do you guys think?
Are you using the passive crossovers with a component set or going active from a DSP or HU and what size speakers?
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
On the resonix website it says:
“Attempting to reduce road noise by only doing a few areas of the car (like just the doors) is a waste of time, effort, and money”

So just cld and ccf. This gets rid of or decreases vibrations. This is basically what I want. Mlv won’t help here unless I do the whole car. Am I correct? And would you say Noico and Dynamat are just cld’s? And would cld and ccf help your audio system except reducing road noise. I though product like Dynamat help absorb sound waves that bounce off stuff and have already hit your ears so they don’t echo and hit your ear twice (sorry I don’t know how to explain it).
 

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Active from the dsp. And also I can run 6.5’s or 6x9’s. Thanks.
Audio Control D-6.1200 6 Channel DSP/AMP If you use this DSP 6 channel amplifier than run the front door woofers and tweeters off the first four channels active and bridge channels 5-6 to run the MTX subwoofers you have.
Boss Audio Systems R1100MK Amplifier Remove this and just use the AudioControl rear channels bridged for sub amplification. Don’t run rear speakers as they will mess up the stage.
Front Speakers: Polk Audio DB6502 6.5" Components If running active get AudioFrog GS60 woofers and SB Acoustics SB29 RDNC Neo tweeters. Best budget tweeters I have ever used. Nothing will touch these tweeters for the same money and even more I promise you that. If you want 6x9 than get the AudioFrog GS690. If running with passive crossovers get these but you won’t need a 6 channel amplifier then
Rear Speakers: JBL GTO629 Premium 6.5-Inch Co-Axial Speaker Delete these/keep stock but fade out when no passengers like kids in back.
Subwoofers: MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D Should work well with AudioControl bridged to them.
 

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On the resonix website it says:
“Attempting to reduce road noise by only doing a few areas of the car (like just the doors) is a waste of time, effort, and money”
True but it’s still worth it to reduce vibration and panel resonance within the door panels, which helps out a lot in making the door mounted midbass sound better. Check with Nick (owner user name SkizeR) as he is an accomplished and respected professional installer with car audio installation.

So just cld and ccf. This gets rid of or decreases vibrations. This is basically what I want. Mlv won’t help here unless I do the whole car. Am I correct? And would you say Noico and Dynamat are just cld’s?
Correct and correct.
 

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A bit out of your budget but if not than this is a fantastic DSP and amplifier in one that will run those subs and more and the DSP portion is excellent. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698632/JL-Audio-VX1000-5i.html?tp=35808. This is assuming you do not need post stock radio de-tuning otherwise you’ll need an interface that can fix that in addition to that which is more money. Don’t forget wiring, you will need decent wiring/electrical support for any amplifier with the appropriate oxygen free copper wire and size.

There are other much less expensive ways to get a DSP and amplification but not as nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
A bit out of your budget but if not than this is a fantastic DSP and amplifier in one that will run those subs and more and the DSP portion is excellent. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698632/JL-Audio-VX1000-5i.html?tp=35808. This is assuming you do not need post stock radio de-tuning otherwise you’ll need an interface that can fix that in addition to that which is more money. Don’t forget wiring, you will need decent wiring/electrical support for any amplifier with the appropriate oxygen free copper wire and size.

There are other much less expensive ways to get a DSP and amplification but not as nice.

So many have recommended that dsp to me. What does it have that the d-6.1200 doesn’t have? A parametric EQ? I’m not an audio expert so I feel I really wouldn’t benefit from a parametric EQ. My tuning will be quite simple. I feel many hate on the audio control dsp because it’s interface looks to basic and they feel it cant be good if it’s that simple. What makes the jl Audio dsp better?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Active from the dsp. And also I can run 6.5’s or 6x9’s. Thanks.
Audio Control D-6.1200 6 Channel DSP/AMP If you use this DSP 6 channel amplifier than run the front door woofers and tweeters off the first four channels active and bridge channels 5-6 to run the MTX subwoofers you have.
Boss Audio Systems R1100MK Amplifier Remove this and just use the AudioControl rear channels bridged for sub amplification. Don’t run rear speakers as they will mess up the stage.
Front Speakers: Polk Audio DB6502 6.5" Components If running active get AudioFrog GS60 woofers and SB Acoustics SB29 RDNC Neo tweeters. Best budget tweeters I have ever used. Nothing will touch these tweeters for the same money and even more I promise you that. If you want 6x9 than get the AudioFrog GS690. If running with passive crossovers get these but you won’t need a 6 channel amplifier then
Rear Speakers: JBL GTO629 Premium 6.5-Inch Co-Axial Speaker Delete these/keep stock but fade out when no passengers like kids in back.
Subwoofers: MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D Should work well with AudioControl bridged to them.

I’ve also received much advice like this. I have a specific goal in mind which has nothing to do with normal staging. But I feel with the D-6.1200 and good speakers I can get exactly what I’m looking for. My perfect audio system would be worse than stock for audio perfectionists as there would be no staging. It’s hard to explain. You can read my previous post about my goal for this system.
 

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So many have recommended that dsp to me. What does it have that the d-6.1200 doesn’t have? A parametric EQ? I’m not an audio expert so I feel I really wouldn’t benefit from a parametric EQ. My tuning will be quite simple. I feel many hate on the audio control dsp because it’s interface looks to basic and they feel it cant be good if it’s that simple. What makes the jl Audio dsp better?
There is nothing wrong with the AudioControl DSP and in fact I love AudioControl products. They make very good products with a solid reputation for qaulity. I’ve used many of their former products like the DQ61, many 2XS, and EQX crossovers and they were all great. I own two JL TwK88 DSP’s and a FIX86 which uses the same DSP tune software as their DSP amplifiers and think the JL tune software is actually more novice/user friendly than the AudioControl software. I’ve only tried the AudioControl software on my PC and didn’t think it was quite as good but still very powerful. The 10 band per channel parametric EQ in the JL software is just as or more powerful than a 30 band graphic EQ. With the JL you can start in basic mode and just use a graphic EQ, there is also an intermediate mode, and then there is the expert mode where every possible option is unlocked. As you gain experience you determine which mode you want to use so you can start out basic and move onto all out full on expert as your system and knowledge grows.

What you should do is download each brands software for yourself and try it. See which one you like best. If you are dead set on AudioControl than that DSP will be more than capable of giving you a great sounding system and no one should fault you for that.

I’ve also received much advice like this. I have a specific goal in mind which has nothing to do with normal staging. But I feel with the D-6.1200 and good speakers I can get exactly what I’m looking for. My perfect audio system would be worse than stock for audio perfectionists as there would be no staging. It’s hard to explain. You can read my previous post about my goal for this system.
I did read it so I apologize if I misunderstood you, was just trying to help you make an informed decision based on a lot of experience with this stuff. I started out like you too and eventually ended up with what I have now and it was a lot of fun learning along the way. If you want the rear speakers than I say go for it as I’m not going to fault you for that. I have rear speakers in my van for the kids when they want to watch movies or listen to the music in the back seat. I’ve also put amplifiers and DSP’s on stock speakers and made them sound better than most people could ever imagine they could sound. It’s all in the installation and tuning.

I will say however that if you plan to run two way active than selecting a low distortion tweeter that can cross very low is extremely important if you want the best possible sound. Every tweeter that I have had that came with a component set in the $300 price category uses a small format tweeter with a high fs, simple 1st or 2nd order crossover, and high crossover point. It will still sound good if used with the passive crossover as designed and tuned with the DSP properly with proper installation though so please keep that in mind as well. It’s all really subjective in the end so if you are happy with the sound than that is all that really matters.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Thanks for the help. I think the infinity kappa 60csx can cross low so that will be good for running active.

So updated setup:
D-6.1200 DSP amp
Infinity Kappa 60csx
JBL GTO629
Terminator Subs
Same crappy boss amp that will soon be upgraded.

For doors:
Resonix CLD squares
Resonix CCF
Fast rings

Sound good?
 

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It sounds exciting.

Personally I would be looking at what are the difference between head phones and a camero. One things that sticks out is that most headphones reduce noise.

The rest of the "shopping list" is just parts. None of the equipment looks like it should make the it sound more or less like headphones.

What is the goal again?

... I listen to music with headphones so I am trying to replicate that in my system(don't know if that changes anything).
What is it you prefer about headphones over speakers?


... I know the rear speakers aren't amazing and neither are the subs but I feel they'll work great. If you guys think otherwise please shoot me some advice on what to do.
How do you know they are not good?
And what makes you feel that they will work grea?



...
I feel that a DSP can do anything an interface can do so I opted out of an audio interface. Maybe I'm wrong...
What have you found?
Can the DSP do anything an interface can do?
 
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