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The system will pull too many amps to only run through the switch. 18 or 20awg for wiring, 4 or 8awg for relay power to system fuse block.
Oh well, I've got my head unit power run like this, accessory wire from head unit turns on everything else. Just use 2 relays.
 

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My system will not have a head unit. I'm building an isolated circuit from scratch specifically for the audio and in-car electronics.
I got that, I was just giving an example of how I did exactly what you're trying to do. Just use 2 relays, it won't be that much work. You seem to be quite capable with electronics, don't let an extra relay scare you.
 

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It's called a "Quenching" Diode. You can buy some relays that have them pre-installed, but they aren't as common.

Go to the www.bcae1.com website and use the side panel to scroll down to the "Diodes" or "Relay" icon...sections 33 or 36. Scroll down the relay page until you see info about "Quenching Diodes".

You can find "quenching diodes" that handle more current at an automotive or RV/Motorhome supply store that carries heavy-duty Trailer wiring harnesses & modules.
 

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You don't need to isolate the power circuit. You can keep your battery bank in the vehicle's charging loop full time. You just want to isolate the turn on triggers
 

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It's called a "Quenching" Diode. You can buy some relays that have them pre-installed, but they aren't as common.

Go to the www.bcae1.com website and use the side panel to scroll down to the "Relay" icon. Scroll down the relay page until you see info about "Quenching Diodes".

You can find "quenching diodes" that handle more current at an automotive or RV/Motorhome supply store that carries heavy-duty Trailer wiring harnesses & modules.
The relays with a pre installed diode will keep voltage from flowing back up the trigger when the coil opens. The problem is he wants to have two triggers connected to the same trigger pole. I still think two relays is the better solution. With the "battery" remote mounted from under the hood. There's only one wire needed to be run back to the relay for the acc turn on. All the other wires are short runs comparatively
 

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The battery is in the charging loop. And isolating the system at the dedicated audio fuse block is what you are describing, and precisely what I am doing. Didn't really want or need to get into the rest of my electrical just for a yes or no answer to my original question.
Alright cool good luck
 
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