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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm about halfway done with the installation in my '04 Tahoe, and I'm having second thoughts about my front stage.
I'm currently using a 3-way setup consisting of an a/d/s/ 336is 6.5", an a/d/s/ 344is 4", and an a/d/s/ PX tweeter on each side. Passively crossed over with Diamond Audio M5X3/24X3 midbass crossovers first which split between the 6.5s and the rest, and a/d/s/ 335PX crossovers between the 4" and tweet. Playing around with the amp's highpass still but it's around 70hz I'd guess.

I LOVE the old a/d/s/ stuff, the PX line was my all time favorite. I've had excellent luck with it back in the day, mainly with McIntosh and Zapco for amplification.
The 6.5" is smooth, musical, and what I'd consider accurate. I just want more snap/attack/impact up front than what I think these can safely provide.

What I'd like to do is get rid of my 4s in favor of a/d/s/ 5.25s, and also get a beefier more dedicated 6.5" midbass driver up front. I plan to go active between the midbass and separates in the near future, but my current amplifier isn't allowing that option due to a lowpass that tops out at 150hz (MB Quart DSC480). I plan to replace the MB Quart amp with a 6-channel to run fronts, midbass, and rears (it's an SUV, 3-row, I do have rear passengers sometimes). Another option may be using a 6-channel to run my whole front active and keep the MB Quart ror rear duties- 5.25" in the rear doors and 3.5" in the D pillars). That's if I can find a spot to tuck the MB Quart amp since I'm going stealth with this one. Considering a Diamond D7056 as the 6-channel because of its flexible crossover and previous good results with their old D7 line.

Longer story shorter, I'm considering the Kicker SSMB6 as front midbass, or maybe the Image Dynamics OEM 6.5. Those both seem to be within my budget. I considered doing an 8" instead but I've got all 3 drivers behind the factory door grilles on each side and I'd like to keep it that way. What other drivers should I be considering that will give me more impact up front than my current setup is offering?

Basic system rundown:

2004 Tahoe Z71
250 amp alternator with overdrive pulley (for better charging at idle).
Two 1000CCA batteries up front.
Big 4 in 1/0.
Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD head unit
MB Quart DSC480 (4-channel, 80wpc RMS).
Hifonics Brutus BXI1610D (1600 watt mono).
Front: a/d/s/ 336is 6.5, a/d/s/ 344is 4, a/d/s/ PX tweeter.
a/d/s/ 335PX crossovers, Diamond Audio M5X3 crossovers.
Rear: Powerbass 5.25" 2-way in rear doors, Powerbass 3.5" 2-way in rear pillars (just fill, they were super inexpensive and I was surprised that they really don't sound bad).
Subs: (2) RE SE12D4s, 3.2 cube ported enclosure tuned to 34hz, behind 3rd row seat.
I have 1/0 running to the Brutus, and 4ga running to the MB Quart. Each have their own breaker up front.
Front doors are pretty dead, no other sound/vibration damping done yet.


Thanks in advance for any advice/input/help/criticism/ridicule you can offer!
:)
 

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Im a big fan of the Kicker RMB-8's & the infinity uniplane 80lf/6.5lf's.. all are the shallow mount midbasses....

Sure there are other "standard depth" speakers that might work better...

It just seems to me like your set up is very scattered.. or "scatter-brained"... great products but no focus, no direction. The complaints & solutions don't add up

What is your core complaint/disappointment with the current system? Why didyou/are you mix-matching passive networks & speakers?

I think before you throw more $ or speakers at the vehicle... define a set of clear-cut goals & then go for it...

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Im a big fan of the Kicker RMB-8's & the infinity uniplane 80lf/6.5lf's.. all are the shallow mount midbasses....

Sure there are other "standard depth" speakers that might work better...

It just seems to me like your set up is very scattered.. or "scatter-brained"... great products but no focus, no direction. The complaints & solutions don't add up

What is your core complaint/disappointment with the current system? Why didyou/are you mix-matching passive networks & speakers?

I think before you throw more $ or speakers at the vehicle... define a set of clear-cut goals & then go for it...

Rob
Your analysis sounds correct. I have multiple complaints about the setup but I can't seem to put my finger on exactly what they are.. I want more clarity at higher volume. I want accurate reproduction of acoustic music while still having the ability to crank electronic music up to irresponsible levels occasionally. I want the entire system other than the head unit hidden from view. I want more impact in my front midbass. I WANT THE GOOSEBUMPS THAT I USED TO GET when I could just listen to the music and forget about the "system".

The reasoning for the mismatched crossovers, is a/d/s/ never made a 3-way passive set for the PX line. They made a 3-way passive set for the 641is but they're not easy to find.
This was originally supposed to be a very basic install, and I got carried away. I started out just doing the 6.5 and tweeter up front with the PX crossover because I had them from my last car. Then I figured I'd add the 4" to take some upper midrange duties off of the 6.5. That's when I realized my 4X80w 4-channel is only suited to be a temporary amp, that I'm going to need more power.

My last car was a 2005 Cadillac DTS, with a/d/s/ 336is and 335is mids with PX crossovers & PX tweeters front and rear. I had a 25-to-life Power 1000 running those 4 corners and a Fi Q15 in a 2.5 cube sealed box firing through the stock sub opening. I really liked it, but I always want more. I swore I was going to leave the Tahoe stock, but here I am.....
 

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Your analysis sounds correct. I have multiple complaints about the setup but I can't seem to put my finger on exactly what they are.. I want more clarity at higher volume. I want accurate reproduction of acoustic music while still having the ability to crank electronic music up to irresponsible levels occasionally. I want the entire system other than the head unit hidden from view. I want more impact in my front midbass. I WANT THE GOOSEBUMPS THAT I USED TO GET when I could just listen to the music and forget about the "system".

The reasoning for the mismatched crossovers, is a/d/s/ never made a 3-way passive set for the PX line. They made a 3-way passive set for the 641is but they're not easy to find.
This was originally supposed to be a very basic install, and I got carried away. I started out just doing the 6.5 and tweeter up front with the PX crossover because I had them from my last car. Then I figured I'd add the 4" to take some upper midrange duties off of the 6.5. That's when I realized my 4X80w 4-channel is only suited to be a temporary amp, that I'm going to need more power.

My last car was a 2005 Cadillac DTS, with a/d/s/ 336is and 335is mids with PX crossovers & PX tweeters front and rear. I had a 25-to-life Power 1000 running those 4 corners and a Fi Q15 in a 2.5 cube sealed box firing through the stock sub opening. I really liked it, but I always want more. I swore I was going to leave the Tahoe stock, but here I am.....
Im thinking doing an active setup with what you have would be the best upgrade.
 

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Dayton 7's would be a good add on, and fairly priced.
 

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I just swapped out my SSMB8 for the id OEM's. The image dynamics handle the low end some much more than the kicker's did. No more bottoming out to early. It was nite and day.
 

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SSmb's seem to have that dull thud to them. Could just be that My ear don't like them - I am The KICKER man, and i have my choices -

personally

I don't think they should have changed from the RMB's

RMB6 are great if that's all you have room for But That Texas Dude up there is right about the RMB8's.

They are KILLER.
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I have other opinions as well though. Wouldn't it be freaking awesome if KICKER would do a Retro Line ? Bring back my s8d's and the whole solo round line up. and How bout the F65c - F69c4 <-- The best one way 6x9 sub ever created. and F8c - F12C and F15c.
If They didn't want to come back with the whole ZR line up they could at least do a ZX460 - That amp is wicked.

I saved me out some s8d's In every ohm available :O) Ever see some Chromed solo baric round 2 Ohm subs? I swear its like holding a Brand new Hand gun. Ya Gotta Digg'em. why did they ever quit I wonder. :confused:
 

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Damn I'm reactionary. I saw a pair of new RMB6s on ebay and offered on them. Now I have a set coming... Talk about jumping early
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm still debating between the ID OEMs, the Peerless drivers posted above, and the Kicker SSMB6...
 

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I have OEMs up front and they do have quite a bit of low end extension when sealed and powered well. I have no tuning on them yet so there's more potential left to gain, but I'm a fan.
 

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It just seems to me like your set up is very scattered.. or "scatter-brained"... great products but no focus, no direction. The complaints & solutions don't add up

What is your core complaint/disappointment with the current system? Why didyou/are you mix-matching passive networks & speakers?

I think before you throw more $ or speakers at the vehicle... define a set of clear-cut goals & then go for it...

Rob

Ditto ditto ditto..
 

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I used to have RMB8s and loved them for their sheer output.

As such it truly is one of the very few drivers that is marketed as a true midbass. I found it sounded better crossed at 200 than 250....really not meant to play a whole lot higher.

For midbass reinforcement I'd say the RMB6 would be a good driver. Being smaller than the 8", it probably sounds a little tighter and could probably mate well with a 4" playing down to 150-200 hz.
 

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There's a deal on ebay for those Adire Extremi M-pyre things right now too. It's in the hot deals forum. You may want to check those out as well. Supposedly they're decent midbass drivers and they're in your price range.
 

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i think i just messed up and posted these specs in a personal message instead of on the board.

here they are again. sorry - i keep goofing up here - seems weird that all these buttons mean different things. LOL why can't they just all do what I want when i want it? Bajajajaaaaa!

R19 - Model

silk - Dome

90 watts/ch. - max power

91 - dB ( 1w/1m)

4 Ohms -Impedance

4.5-21 kHz -frequencey Response

1-5/8” - (42mm)

5/8” - (16mm)
 
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