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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I want to install an alarm/remote starter/ keyless unit in a 2011 Mazda CX-7. I have an Autopage 860 LCD w/ AP data link port for the unit. I also have an ADS-AL CA for the bypass module.

I went to a local install shop (not a chain, but a "mom and pop" shop where the installer seemed to know what he was talking about and wasn't a 17 year old kid just interested in bass) and spoke with the installer for a while about the install. He mentioned that in most 2011 Mazda's, the key might be an 80bit key instead of a 40bit key, and that there was no way to tell except by removing the steering column and testing a wire. He said that you can't tell by the key, by the VIN, by anything. Of course, if it is an 80bit key it requires a special part that is more expensive. DOes this sound familiar to anyone here? Can anyone expand on this in a technical sense?

Question #2) This installer also mentioned that the keyless probably isn't a done via the data wire, but is done through a since wire/ varied resistance system. According to him, this would also require an additional $10 part. Once again, anyone familiar with this/ can explain it to me better?

Question #3) This installer mentioned that he does not install the hood pin. He said he stopped using hood pins 15 years ago (based on high failure rates and the low probablility that anyone works on their engine with their remote in their pocket) and relies on an anternative method. I thought he said brake or neutral, but I can't be sure. Also, neither of those make any sense to me, since you wouldn't be on the brake when you remote started the vechicle, and since the car will always be in park when it is remote started. Again, I can't be sure of what other method he is using. Does this sound right to anyone here- to not use the hood pin?

Lastly- is there anything about this vechicle or this unti that I should be aware of prior to the install?

Thanks for the help,
DJ SPANKY
 

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Missouri? What shop are you going to?
 

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I can think of a few that he couuld be at. I haven't done a 2011 mazda so no idea. and hood pins are prone to failure (except factory ones. I used mercury switches. it was 7 bucks extra I think.
 

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you can tell if its a 40 or 80 bit key very easily.... there should be an "SA" stamped on the key. you can also test the PATS wire if you really want to know. the ads-ca does work for both 40 and 80bit keys, just that 80bit keys require a little more programming.

the bypass for ford/mazda cars only does a transponder bypass, no door locks, lights, etc. the door locks are through a 1-wire system, which requires a 1kohm resistor for lock and a straight negative feed for unlock.

as for the hood pin, i never installed them, but its all to the installer to see if they want to install it or not.
personally i havent installed one on a cx-7 but i've installed on tons of mazdas, preety straightforward.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you can tell if its a 40 or 80 bit key very easily.... there should be an "SA" stamped on the key. you can also test the PATS wire if you really want to know. the ads-ca does work for both 40 and 80bit keys, just that 80bit keys require a little more programming.

the bypass for ford/mazda cars only does a transponder bypass, no door locks, lights, etc. the door locks are through a 1-wire system, which requires a 1kohm resistor for lock and a straight negative feed for unlock.

as for the hood pin, i never installed them, but its all to the installer to see if they want to install it or not.
personally i havent installed one on a cx-7 but i've installed on tons of mazdas, preety straightforward.
Thanks for the info.

I looked at my key and I didn't see "SA" anywhere on it. Would it be on the metal part of the key or on the plastic key fob part? My mazda key is a switchblade type key with the keyless remote built in. I took it apart and this is what was pritned on the remote half:
C9905
ETC094LPD0396
02567 POSTEL 2005
IC: 662F-SKE12501
FCC ID: BGBX1T478SKE12501-01
MITSUBISHI ELECTRIC

and stamped (in the plastic) on the key half:
>PA GF50<

Also- any idea where I can get the wiring sheet for this vechicle?
Thanks again
 

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It should say SA in the metal shaft of the key, close to the close to they key fob, I will try to take a picture of my cousins 80 bit ford key to explain.

Bulldogsecurity.com will be the best place for the wiring sheet
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It should say SA in the metal shaft of the key, close to the close to they key fob, I will try to take a picture of my cousins 80 bit ford key to explain.

Bulldogsecurity.com will be the best place for the wiring sheet
Thanks for the info. Those pics would be great
 

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I don't remember the flip keys being 80 bit compatible yet... I could be wrong but I'm pretty damn sure.

If he's too lazy to install a hood pin, walk away. I've seen too many cars crank without hood pins after being jumped off. And if he's cutting corners there.... Where else is he cutting at??
PATS and SPATS are not resistance based btw. So he's full of ****. Find someone else.
 

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I am a Mazda tech, we install remote starters right in our dealership. Mazda has not used 80 bit keys yet. 40 bit only, I use the Fortin KEY-OVERIDE-ALL for immobilizer bypass on every single new Mazda. If its regular key or flip key, or smart key, doesn't matter.

Lock wires are not data, as previously mentioned you need a resistor, piece of cake though.

Hood pin, I ALWAYS use them, I am the one that's usually under the hood working on it, I don't want my hands wrapped in some pulleys. A lot of Mazda's have a factory hood switch built into the hood latch, its normally open though.
 

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How to test for 40 bit key or 80 bit key:

The 80 bit ford key have "SA" stamped on the metal shaft of the key.
The 80bit keys are also 40bit compatible, so because a key has SA or HA stamped on it does not guarantee that the vehicle uses an 80 bit system. Thankfully there is a very easy way to tell what we are dealing with

Meter the 12v line at the PATS module.

If the 12v Line test as Ignition = 40 bit system
If the 12v Line test as Key sense = 80 bit system
 

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SiB911, dman- thanks for the excellent information
no problem sir.. GL on your venture..

Oh, and as far as hood pin, i use mercury ones, more reliable in my opinion, but thats just my preference.
 
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