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I haven't tried them yet. I'm in the process of installing the stereo now. Then there is tuning. It could be a month before I'm ready to do an evaluation between these and the Dyns...

Thanks about the install work. I try

Ge0
Yeah thats what I thought that it needed to be installed, but thought maybe u heard them already...

Okay I'll search a bit online.... I could buy a pair last week but saw they are sold already...

Good luck with the build!
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Fish tape torture and other dastardly things....

Running the tweeter wires was an absolute nightmare. Hours of work trying to get the fish tape to find the right line / hole. Cutting and gouging my hands up. Then trying to get all the trim pieces to snap back in place properly. But, I was determined to do this myself vs. pay an installer. Reminds me of the good ole days when I was a poor college kid who couldn't afford help.


It was not 100% necessary to completely remove the drivers side door sill / kick panel trim. It was easy enough to fish the wire up this piece of plastic.



Tie down wire along factory harness for security. Don't want it getting pinched somewhere...



Fishing the wire up from the kick panel and behind the fuse box was an hour of swearing and nearly giving up. The wire just could not find a right path.



Pushing the wire further up from the top of the fuse block to the tweeter hole was another test of my religion. Is there really a God? If so, why is he doing this to me?



Wire snugged up and out of the way so trim pieces don't pinch it.



For the final stretch I was able to pull the wire the rest of the way through the tweeter hole. This onloy took 20 minutes. We are on a roll!!!



I pulled about 3 extra feet of wire through the tweeter hole and stashed it in the trim. I didn't want to risk it sliding back down. The tweeter also helped hold it. Yes, at this point there is sweat, blood, and dust all over the dash and wind shield. I'll clean that up later



While I was at it I put my door trim back on. My fix for the broken connector cam lock worked
.



Wrestling the door trim back in place and making it seat properly was another hour long cussing session. I ended up removing the entire B-Pillar to make the job easier.




In the end everything snapped back into place properly. I hope I never have to go through this mess again in this vehicle.

Now its time to move on to the cargo area and start dressing wires and preparing to install the amps.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Power distribution.

Sub floor with temporary rats nest of wires for sub amp.



Flip back the carpet:



Hmm. I thought there would be more to this. Just a cheap plastic cover?


Temporary sub amp power tap with bullet style fuse holder



Fuse holder would go great here but no potential mounting points.



Or is there?



Yank out the plastic cover:



Bare sheet metal battery well. The fact that Porsche placed sound dampener on these surfaces makes me think the metal faces exterior on the other side. So, ain't just going to go drilling...



Battery cover:



Testing a concept on scrap material:



It's difficult to bend thicker plastic but can be done.



To be continued.

Ge0
 
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Discussion Starter #205
OK stay with me here and let me know if this is a stupid idea.

Mark off material I think I will need:



Cut it to size:





Stick it to sacrificial board with double sided Tesa tape:



WTF is this guy up to?



Melt it into submission;



The bricks were a "fly by the seat of youyr pants" experiment but worked:



Let the plastic cool. Bricks absorb heat well. Unfortunately the plastic did not cool evenly. Left some weird creases. But the structure is still solid as a rock.



Square as Steve:


To be continued

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #206 (Edited)
Ok. Not a complete work but will reveal my idea:

1/4" HDPE is thick enough to tap for light duty loads. I plan to bolt the fuse holder in like this:



Use small self taping screws to fix fuse bracket to this plastic battery well cover. The lid still closes with a 1/4" sheet inserted:



This is what the assembly would look like prior to putting back into palce in the car.



My concern is that only plastic and a few screws would be holding a high amperage fuse holder in place. It should be strong enough. But, I would feel much better about a stronger mechanical bond. However, I don't think I can just screw into sheet metal here. Any other solution allowing me to secure into sheet metal would be much further from the battery. Then I would have a longer unprotected / unfused run of power wire leading from the battery.

The best solution would be to tack weld a bracket for the fuse holder close to the battery if possible. Right around the same area I plan to mount it to plastic. But, I don't have that skill.

Advice? If none I will just go the plastic route tomorrow to have "something" in place.

Ge0
 

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Ok. Not a complete work but will reveal my idea:

1/4" HDPE is thick enough to tap for light duty loads. I plan to bolt the fuse holder in like this:



Use small self taping screws to fix fuse bracket to this plastic battery well cover. The lid still closes with a 1/4" sheet inserted:



This is what the assembly would look like prior to putting back into palce in the car.



My concern is that only plastic and a few screws would be holding a high amperage fuse holder in place. It should be strong enough. But, I would feel much better about a stronger mechanical bond. However, I don't think I can just screw into sheet metal here. Any other solution allowing me to secure into sheet metal would be much further from the battery. Then I would have a longer unprotected / unfused run of power wire leading from the battery.

The best solution would be to tack weld a bracket for the fuse holder close to the battery if possible. Right around the same area I plan to mount it to plastic. But, I don't have that skill.

Advice? If none I will just go the plastic route tomorrow to have "something" in place.

Ge0
Maybe on the final version you should score the underside with a razor along your fold line. Also heat it a little slower. Do you think quenching it in water after would help with the cooling deformity? Have you consider 3m double side tape and just attaching it to the wall in the battery well? Some of that stuff is unbelievably strong! Just some thoughts. Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #208 (Edited)
So I did a little more work today:

I applied some random goop and took some measurements. The Bose amp is still installed and it's EQ active. The only difference in measurements you see is due to treatments applied to the center channel 3-1/2" loudspeaker.

Before any treatments applied:





274671


Apply some CLD:







You will see small reductions in frequency response here and there after dampening the center channels baffle. The changes you see are not actually due to reduction in musical signal output. They are reductions in panel vibrations that show up as distortion in your overall measurement. Sometimes this is a good thing. RED trace is before. Blue trace is after...




Now replace the plastic trim piece and throw everything out of whack...





The plastic trim panel has it's own significant influence on frequency response of the full range center channel. Most notably between 2KHz and 5KHz... RED trace before. GREEN trace afterwards.




The only purpose for this exercise was to show you the influence of adding changes to a system. Adding the CLD made some difference. However, placing a plastic cover over the center channel made a much larger difference. Mostly for the bad as it caused an attenuation along a large portion of the midrange response.

Ge0
 

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GREAT thread!
 
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Discussion Starter #210
I made a little more progress after work and chores today. Ran power feeds for both amplifiers:

Start with this rats nest:





Temporary power feed for sub amp:



Looking to mount double fuse holder around here:



I selected a new ground point for sub amp which is about 2ft away. It was grounded to the battery retention strap. While a very short ground wire run and convenient I didn't feel 100% confident in this solution. A mechanic monkeying with the car could mess it up. Now I don't need to worry about technicians reconnecting my ground wire after servicing the battery:







Now prepare the power distribution block. I am second guessing the use of cheap ferrules here. Will they hold?




To be continued...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #211 (Edited)
Keep stringing wire and tying it down:


Two power feeds for two amps.



Tiding up wiring by following factory wire runs.


Power, ground, remote turn on, and signal run for sub amp:




Must run Power, Remote turn on, and signal from sub amp to main amp:



Extra cable slop[ for now. But, all signals run.





Main amp ground wire:
274796


274811



Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #212
So I screwed around some more today. Worked on my sub amp mounting scheme:

Bought some U channel aluminum extrusion to help hold my subwoofer amp.









The idea is to JB Weld the aluminum U Channel to the floor. The sub amp mounting board would rest in it. Hmm, what's that in the center?









Crap! It's a rubber access plug. Better not move forward until I understand what this is.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #213 (Edited)
So, I am impatient:


Don't know what the rubber plug is work around it:



This stuff should be good for light duty:



Scuff up the surfaces so the epoxy sticks better:
274882



I'm a little worried about misalignment of the 2 pieces. I'll need to create a crude fixture to hold stuff in place while the epoxy cures.
274883


Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #214
One more quick task before sunset. Gotta make use of longer days while I have them...


The factory amplifier is grounded here (Brown wire). This must be a decent grounding point for my aftermarket amplifier.



After using sandpaper for 10 minutes I determined this method of removing paint was futile:



Grab a tool more suited for the job:



5 minutes later the sheet metal around this stud is clear of paint. Side note. Watch that grey factory wool when using a high speed rotary tool. The wire wheel will suck it in...









Primary amp ground in an 11" run...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #215
Here's one for Cueball

I use wire ferrules to keep my wire ends from fraying when bolted into an amp.



I was reminded that it is good practice to heat shrink the ferrule to the wire so the two don't separate.



Ge0
 
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Discussion Starter #217
You are suppose to crimp the ferrules before connecting them... ;)


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Not in all circumstances. Watch this video from Mark at CAF. He does not recommend crimping power wires due to the type of terminal used.

BTW. I already own that crimping tool :)
274920


Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #218
Only had about 30 minutes tonight before dark:

First things first. Apply shrink tubing to my wire ferrules to keep Cueball happy











Now there is the issue of the dang fuse holder cover popping off randomly. I decided to strap it down:








VELCRO Brand - ONE-WRAP: For Cables, Wires & Cords - 8" x 1/4" Ties, 25 Ct. - Black:Amazon:Office Products


Now to settle the great debate over how to mount my fuse holder:

Industrial strength Velco from ResoNix. The stuff is supposed to survive the Apocalypse. To me it appears to be standard issue Velcro brand. We'll see...



ResoNix Vinyl-Compatible Velcro® – ResoNix Sound Solutions


Heated the adhesive up to a nice warm temperature with my heat gun then stuck and rolled into place:
274945






FCHO Car Sound Deadening Roller Metal Installation Tool 3 Pcs for Auto Noise Roller Car Sound Deadener Application Installation Tool Rolling Wheel Interior Accessories:Amazon:Home Improvement

All done for the night. All out of daylight...

Ge0
 

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How come you can't work on the car in your garage?
 

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Discussion Starter #220
How come you can't work on the car in your garage?
I have a tiny little garage that is separate from my house. It's dimly lit. In a pinch I could probably work out there.

Ge0
 
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