DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So the title says it... I'm planning an active SPL/SQ build and would like any suggestions, tips, advice... FIRST priority for the setup is loud and low, and then as clean and clear and quality as I can get it

-2005 Altima (already own)
-a single Sundown SA-12 (already own)
-Orion HCCA D2400 Competion amp (already own)
-Precision Power PPi 900.4 (145 RMS x 4) for mids and highs (already own)
-Upgrading the H/U to something modern like a Kenwood. Something with 4V preamp output
-Dayton 408 as a DSP
-a Dayton umm6 mic to fine tune things using rew
-Oscilloscope to set gains and such
-going active, so some SB Acoustics SB17 (will have to do more research on exactly what model and what type of cone)
-Some sort of nice tweeters (haven't gotten to researching these yet)
-sound deadening and sealing front doors
-Big 3 and any other electrical upgrades
-tons of research on how to properly tune and adjust all settings (will be doing this before installing)

Looking for info on if the SB17s are a great choice and/or other mid woofer options that would work well with my SPL, while still SQ, setup?

As well as if theres anything important I'm missing from the list above? Is there another step or piece of equipment I need to buy?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Looks like fun!

You need an enclosure and a battery. Drop a decent XS Power AGM in (D3400 or two) ) and focus heavily on engine, chassis, and terminal grounding. I have cable routing pics of my 2003 Maxima with a 2014 engine if you're interested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Looks like fun!

You need an enclosure and a battery. Drop a decent XS Power AGM in (D3400 or two) ) and focus heavily on engine, chassis, and terminal grounding. I have cable routing pics of my 2003 Maxima with a 2014 engine if you're interested.
Many thanks man. I'm definitely interested in those pics. I will be building a custom ported box tuned to 31Hz. I've done a TON of research on the electrical upgrades and have heard so many options. Some people say just do battery. Some say just get HO alternator. Some say both. Some say cap, no cap and all different combinations.

Unanimous is Big 3 which I will be doing for sure. I'll follow your advice on the battery and look at your wiring. Please provide any extra ground connections and other wiring outside of the Big 3 that is needed. Also will just the battery upgrade be sufficient? And I can skip the alternator and caps?

Just fyi the sub amp will be 1 [email protected], 4 ch will be 145rms each channel for the mids. 145rms will be available for the tweets but I'm sure they wont need that much.

I dont really have any other major electrical draws besides the sound system. I'll will probably be upgraded to some LED headlights to save a few amps as well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
The below pics are enough to get you where you need to be. I made the cables from 1/0awg, tech flex, adhesive shrink tubing and copper lugs. I used the battery that came with the car to get it started and going. This was during my engine swap last year. Our engine bays will be similar enough in that they are both the same engine, tranny, and battery configuration. In these pics are grounds (3) for starter/tranny housing, engine block, and immediately below is obviously chassis/frame to battery negative post. Power cables (2) seen in the last couple pics come from alternator B+ to battery, and battery directly to starter.

20190129_114149.jpg
260615
260616
260618
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Caps are a waste of time. At the very least, make sure your alternator tests out with proper voltage, no AC ripple, clean, dry, good connections, all that jazz. If it were me, I don't care what battery is in it, at least one brand new XS Power AGM would be going into it before any other work was done, ideally an additional like-model AGM in the rear wired parallel.

Read and know Ohm's law for power needs (110 amp stock Altima alternator x 14.4V = 1584 watts output or thereabouts, factor in normal draw for car and subtract for available power, yadda yadda) and you'll be on your way.

I assumed you had the V6. Are you I4 or V6? Totally spaced that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Caps are a waste of time. At the very least, make sure your alternator tests out with proper voltage, no AC ripple, clean, dry, good connections, all that jazz. If it were me, I don't care what battery is in it, at least one brand new XS Power AGM would be going into it before any other work was done, ideally an additional like-model AGM in the rear wired parallel.

Read and know Ohm's law for power needs (110 amp stock Altima alternator x 14.4V = 1584 watts output or thereabouts, factor in normal draw for car and subtract for available power, yadda yadda) and you'll be on your way.

I assumed you had the V6. Are you I4 or V6? Totally spaced that.
Many thanks man. Those pics help out a lot! ...and I'll be replicating that. It's a V6. I'll get an AGM for sure for the front. I have an Everstart Maxx 24 with 750 cca in the front now would it make sense to put that one in the back with the AGM up front? I don't have the budget for 2 AGMs at this time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,892 Posts
You don't need a second battery. Upgrade the stock battery to the largest AGM you can fit, and the Big 3 should be plenty for your build. I wouldn't add a second battery, and I would only consider upgrading the alternator if you see you are having voltage issues after the system is in. (You can see my amplifiers listed below and all of that is on a stock '05 Scion xB alternator with an upgraded Group 34 AGM in the stock location. I haven't even done the big 3 yet.)

On the mids, I would look at other options with a higher Qts if you're going into the stock door location. Dayton RS180-4 are decent, as are the GR Research M-165X. Car audio branded drivers should also be up for consideration as they are designed to work in the automotive environment and typically have a higher Qts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
You don't need a second battery. Upgrade the stock battery to the largest AGM you can fit, and the Big 3 should be plenty for your build. I wouldn't add a second battery, and I would only consider upgrading the alternator if you see you are having voltage issues after the system is in. (You can see my amplifiers listed below and all of that is on a stock '05 Scion xB alternator with an upgraded Group 34 AGM in the stock location. I haven't even done the big 3 yet.)

On the mids, I would look at other options with a higher Qts if you're going into the stock door location. Dayton RS180-4 are decent, as are the GR Research M-165X. Car audio branded drivers should also be up for consideration as they are designed to work in the automotive environment and typically have a higher Qts.
Ok cool thanks again, yeah my plans have changed almost daily on these forums and talking with people. The plan is now to go 2-way active, bridge the 4ch and send 225rms at some Crescendo pwx8 mids and getting another undecided small 2ch amp for some massive audio ct-2 tweets. You have any thoughts on a good 2ch for the tweets?

Btw congrats on the Team Zapco win I think I seen you on FB trophied up. Someone recommended me a Zapco ST-2B, then someone came along and said that the new Zapcos werent good, but I've been running into that a lot with conflicting advice.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top