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Discussion Starter #1
I currently have L6s in my doors and D3004/6020 in a-pillars. I have loved my mids but I want to try something new. The options I am considering are L6SE, 18wu, and L8SE. I have become really interested in the idea of L8SE in a 2-way. I am having a difficult time finding the TS parameters on the L8SE to see if it would work with my scans. I think the simplest swap would be the L6SE. I think they are dead sexy:D! So, long story short what do you think about the L8SE in a 2-way setup with the scans?

P.S. I just got the iPhone DIYMA app and it rocks. I recommend it to everyone. It is 2.99 but I think we should support this incredible haven and chance we can.
 

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I just asked Scott the same question about using the L8SE in a 2 way, he says "The L8SE plays easily to the 3,800 - 4,000 hz range"

Which is good news, now to make sure they'll actually fit...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't doubt that it will play easily into the 3800-4000 hz range. I am doubting that it will play the entire range as well as the L6SE. Also, how much of a benefit will it really be? Mine will be installed in the door so I am looking at the 3rd line from the top. The L6SE appears to play more flat than the L8SE. Looking at 50 hz I only see a 2 db increase from the L8 to the L6. Up at 60 hz I see no difference. I'm hoping to get a little more in the bottom end if I go to the L8SE. From these graphs I'm just not so sure that I would gain that much noticeable difference, especially for the extra price. I hope someone with more experience in reading these can chime in.

L6SE graph:


L8SE graph:
 

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I don't doubt that it will play easily into the 3800-4000 hz range. I am doubting that it will play the entire range as well as the L6SE. Also, how much of a benefit will it really be? Mine will be installed in the door so I am looking at the 3rd line from the top. The L6SE appears to play more flat than the L8SE. Looking at 50 hz I only see a 2 db increase from the L8 to the L6. Up at 60 hz I see no difference. I'm hoping to get a little more in the bottom end if I go to the L8SE. From these graphs I'm just not so sure that I would gain that much noticeable difference, especially for the extra price. I hope someone with more experience in reading these can chime in.

L6SE graph:


L8SE graph:

Well, we are pretty much in the same boat right now, hoping for more info on this as well...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I noticed your HRU.4. I just bought one on this forum. I haven't received it yet but I am excited. ONe big reason I am considering the L8SE is because I now have the extra power. How do you like yours?
 

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I noticed your HRU.4. I just bought one on this forum. I haven't received it yet but I am excited. ONe big reason I am considering the L8SE is because I now have the extra power. How do you like yours?
I love this amp! Other than the size. Id probably keep this amp forever, I like it better than my Zapcos, PPI's, TRU's, JL, DD's, Diamond, Memphis, Rockford amps that Ive owned. Dead quiet, super clean, tons o powa, and not to mention the sleek all black design...love it!

I may have to get another one though if I get the L8, currently I run the HRU.4 active to my Focal KRX2 set. The mids are 2ohm so Im probably pushing over 200 to each. I love having a ton of power on mid-bass, and I have a feeling the L8 will laugh at a mere 150w or so...(since they're 4 ohm), I realize they're more efficient, but a bridged HRU.4 to the L8s is probably what Ill end up doing:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have been running my L6s active on just under 100w so the HRU.4 is a big upgrade for me. I can only afford 1 of these monsters so I hope which ever upgrade I get will be satisfied.

Bump for anyone with an opinion on the graphs for a 2-way with L8SE vs. L6SE.
 

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Emmm.... 8" driver I won't play up till 5000Hz(without EQ).... Unless it is build meant for fullrange...
In the market, there's plenty of reputable brands, since you are having a Scan tweeter, why not just go for Scan mid? I'll looks for some raw drivers(6.5" or 8") that able to play flat till 8000Hz... Don't ask me why, but having a driver that able to play flat till certain level, it makes tuning easier....
 

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I currently have L6s in my doors and D3004/6020 in a-pillars. I have loved my mids but I want to try something new. The options I am considering are L6SE, 18wu, and L8SE. I have become really interested in the idea of L8SE in a 2-way. I am having a difficult time finding the TS parameters on the L8SE to see if it would work with my scans. I think the simplest swap would be the L6SE. I think they are dead sexy:D! So, long story short what do you think about the L8SE in a 2-way setup with the scans?

P.S. I just got the iPhone DIYMA app and it rocks. I recommend it to everyone. It is 2.99 but I think we should support this incredible haven and chance we can.
what dont you like about the L6 ?

and how much power do you have going to them? (what brand amp)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Don't get me wrong. I'm a HAT fanboy and the L6s are the most amazing car audio speakers I have ever heard. When I was tryin out many different midbasses/midranges I fell in love with these after just a few minutes of listening. I just think the SE series is dead sexy and I enjoy messin around with equipment.

I have been driving them with an old Cadence Z4000. Rated at 100rms x 4 @ 4 Ohms. It's been my first and only 4-channel for about 7 yrs so I'm real curious and excited about the HRU.4.

I'm also not 100% happy with how well the L6s blend with the scans. I'm not sure that just dropping in the SE or even 18wu would fix this. It could just be that I have no experience in tuning. Thanks for all of the feedback so far.
 

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Well, 1 brand are popular with car audio competetions while another seldom heard on car audio competetions...
When a person starts to ask such qustions, sure there's something wrong with it....
What you can do now is(since you already stated tuning skills are not at top notch?), try different crossover points, phase and slope for both the tweeter and midbass then see how it goes... As said earlier, more power to your midbass may do wonders...
Equipment does not rules on a sound system, tuning skill does rule...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, 1 brand are popular with car audio competetions while another seldom heard on car audio competetions...
When a person starts to ask such qustions, sure there's something wrong with it....
What you can do now is(since you already stated tuning skills are not at top notch?), try different crossover points, phase and slope for both the tweeter and midbass then see how it goes... As said earlier, more power to your midbass may do wonders...
Equipment does not rules on a sound system, tuning skill does rule...
You do have a good point. Even though the scans have been reviewed as such a high quality speaker and in some posts as the best driver they have ever tested, they get little use in competition. This doesn't make sense to me. Any ideas?

I agree that I need to spend countless more hours learning how to tune. Im still left with my same question regarding an L8SE as a mid in the door. What do You think about it In a 2-way? Also, do you think it would do a better job than the L6SE in the 2-way? I'm pretty much going to choose either L6SE or L8SE. I'm leaning away from the 18wu due to the previous thread comparing some of these drivers. They determined that the HAT would do better in the doors.
 

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Competetions are the best place to tilt some facts, that's what I feel after listened to some champion winning in my place... Even some China brand that before the competetions only sells for $60 can be sold at $200 after winning the competetions...
8" driver you will be need more air for it to work properly, if bass are your concern...
For 2-way front setup, you may need the midbass to work more as tweeter tends to sound harsh if you crossed them too low... But then using 8" to sing are kinda odd for me, since I prefer them to play bass duty more... Car's internal volume are quite small if were compare to your house...
If really want to change, get L6SE....
BTW, each brand's speakers do have their own sound signature....
 
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