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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Equipment:
Replacing Nakimichi (Clarion) CD & Tape in 2002 Subaru Outback Wagon with Kenwood DMX706S, Infinity 6030s in front doors, Infinity 6532s in back doors, JL Audio RD900/5 amp and Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8" shallow mount subwoofer (to replace 6x9 sub).

Scenario:
Last night i:
  • removed door panels.
  • removed center console trim.
  • removed the Nakimichi / Clarion deck & amplifier. As i did this i found a little box plugged into antennae wire.
  • removed all door speakers.
  • Ran new speaker wire throughout.
  • Ran new power cable. As i did this i discovered an pair of 4 gauge power wires already running through firewall and using two very old barrel fuses screwed into top of fuse box in engine bay. I followed the power cables along drivers seat through B-pillar then found cut end to both near rear passenger door. The wires tested as hot. (was great to find as it saves me time from running a positive through firewall myself. was terrible to find that he had been driving for 2 years with a positive and negative exposed wire under carpet of passenger foot area)
  • Installed infinity tweeter in passengers door.

By this time it was late and we decided to finish next Saturday.
So he could drive during week I:
  • Popped door panels back on doors. (only bolted drivers door panel)
  • Reconnected power accessory control switch cluster back into drivers door didn't reconnect other doors accessory control switches.
  • Taped up ends of exposed power cables under rear drivers side passenger carpet.
To verify car was drivable i had him start engine before i left.
It started but sounded odd to me, however he said it was normal.

Since it did start and all lights worked i went home.


This morning i get a text saying it wouldn't started.
Assuming it was battery (maybe loose door panel sent AJAR single or something was left on overnight)) related i grabbed my jump pack, spare battery and tools then returned to his house.
When i get there he says it had a hard time starting this morning, ran rough at idle, died after 15 seconds then wouldn't start again.

Symptoms:
Engine turned over but would not start.
Acted like it was not getting gas.

Troubleshooting:
  • Checked fuses -all good
  • Checked for exposed wires -all good
  • Reconnected all door related electrical plugs

Still wouldn't start
  • Reconnected old stereo
  • Reconnected old amplifier
  • Reinserted barrel fuses to existing power cables that ran through firewall

still wouldn't start (now i am becoming concerned)
  • I ping my personal mechanic (and friend) with symptoms and the above mentioned activity)

Solution:
He replies with a simple: Press and hold gas pedal to floor then start engine.
After a quick sputter it starts up right away.
It sounded better than it did last night.

A few minutes later he replies:
  • "boss was next to me, sorry for quick reply but the Subaru has a FLOODED INJECTOR sensor that prevents ignition when too much fuel is detected in injectors.
    It will not start again until sensor reset. To reset sensor you hold pedal to floor and start engine. It had nothing to do with stereo work"

Not sure how it became flooded or if it was even related to what i was doing.
But we did get it running.

Just thought I would share in case someone encounters this issue and googles for a solution (when I googled the issue I couldn't find anything)
 

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By holding the gas pedal down like that you were putting the ECU in a bypass mode
so it would not see any of the sensors on the motor that’s why you were able to get it to start
You can do this with any modern car that uses a computer and fuel injectors

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
good to know!
it was explained to me that the Subaru (and maybe any modern vehicle) wont reset the Flood Sensor until it detects RPMs (which seems odd since you wont get RPMs until the motor starts).

Make me wonder how many people have had an issue like this (that could be resolved by holding the pedal down) and towed the vehicle to a mechanics shop for repairs.
The mechanic, rather than explain this solution instead fabricated an issue (your flux capacitor needed to be replaced for $1500).
 
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