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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Decided to try the Morel CCWR254 in my door card. Quite happy so far with the SI M3 in Valicar pods, but this setup is more stealth, places the mids wider and nearly in-line vertically with the sail tweeters. If I'm blown away by the Morels I'll keep them in place and sell the M3/pods, although this may also be a test run for placing the M3 in the card. Picked up a pair of extra door cards from an auto wrecker, so I can mar the cards up with impunity. Covered the area in masking tape to avoid the having the (I guess vinyl) outer wrap from tearing, and used three increasingly larger drill bits to create a guide hole for a 2 1/4" hole saw. Slowly ran the hole saw in reverse with low pressure and it worked great. My plan for now is to simply have the back wave dissipate into the space between the card and the door surface, although I'm open to making some sort of sealed chamber behind the card if that seems warranted. Pretty much perfect fit as far as the diameter goes - the problem is that the surface has a curve to it, so the driver doesn't sit flush to the surface, as seen in the last photo. Unsure of the best way to get that gap filled and sealed. I'm OK with screwing the driver directly to the card. I can also make a cutting board ring, although that wouldn't solve the issue. The current angle wouldn't be too bad, but also open to a solution that would get the driver more on-axis on the driver side. The passenger side I think would be pretty much on-axis from the driver's seat. I'm thinking perhaps some rubber weatherstripping cut to compensate for the gaps? Any advice on what material/technique would be appropriate?

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You could also either wrap the driver in aluminum foil, or make a template of the driver, and then make a bondo milkshake and mount the template while the stuff is wet and squish it out. Then sand down and paint.

But that is a lot of work. the weather strip idea is fine and since the dash piece is plastic, you might be able to put a couple of small pieces of wood behind the driver and screw into those, and use the wood and driver frame’s rigidity to locally bend the dash around the driver to be flat.
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! Perhaps an HDPE ring on both sides of the door card, to squeeze it between them? I wonder if using a heat gun to warm up the door card would make it more pliable?
 

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If you're going to do the heat gun way. Be careful of the temps so you dont put sags / wrinkles and or stretch the plastic
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you're going to do the heat gun way. Be careful of the temps so you dont put sags / wrinkles and or stretch the plastic
If I try it, I will be careful. Tensioning delicate Mylar membranes of my electrostatic home speakers has taught me a light touch with the heat gun!
 
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I like adhesive, closed cell EVA foam. They sell in double-sided-sticky or single. I prefer single. It will conform to the shape of the curve, yet allow you to (gently) screw the speaker down until air tight.

I've used this foam as a spacer in several builds with odd baffle shapes, cuts etc.

No wet bondo. No stinky fiberglass resin. No dry time. It's the bee's knees.

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I like adhesive, closed cell EVA foam. They sell in double-sided-sticky or single. I prefer single. It will conform to the shale of the curve, yet allow you to (gently) screw the speaker down until air tight.

I've used this foam as a spacer in several builds with odd baffle shapes, cuts etc.

No wet bondo. No stinky fiberglass resin. No dry time. It's the bee's knees.
Is that the entire square (with lopped off corner) that the speaker is mounted to?
 

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Is that the entire square (with lopped off corner) that the speaker is mounted to?
Yes, there were pegs and ripples in the plastic below that, and a few holes I wanted to seal up and even out. (I used JB weld for the holes and let that dry 1st.)

The odd little foam rectangle with the blue DH Labs speaker wire hanging out actually has another piece of foam below it, with the slit on the opposite side.

The oversized foam piece on the baffle also helps mitigate vibration, and reduces reflections from the wooden inner door panel, which sits approx 2 inches above the speaker.

Those 5.25s are crossed LOW in my car, at around 70Hz. They don't rattle, buzz or clip with a 24dB slope and a buttload of damping mat on the ABS enclosures. Each door gets around 80 watts to the mids, and sounds quite nice on all types of music.

I'm doing 6.5s in the rear doors, which will only play between 60 and 180Hz or so, and be time aligned via DSP.
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you, sir! I'm leaning towards making an HDPE ring to mount the Morel straight to the door card - this looks like good material to put between the ring & the card. That gap is about 1/4". I'm guessing 3/8" thick material would be sufficient? How much does it bulge sideways when compressed? I would guess cutting the EVA a little narrower than the ring would allow it to squish to match the diameter of the ring. And that at the ends where it would compress more, a bit narrower than the less compressed areas? Since I picked up a pair of spare door cards at the auto wrecker, I'm also going to play with using a piece of PVC pipe to get the driver aimed more on-axis (which the EVA could be equally useful for), as well as trying a small fiberglass enclosure to accomplish the same thing. I will say I'm kinda hoping that angling the mid doesn't provide any sonic benefit, as I think the more flush mount will look better - and it would definitely be more stealth.
 
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It hardly moves at all. You can cut maybe 1/16 under, and it should work great. I also like this for making tweeter mounts behind door cards in tight spaces (like BMWs) where the mount needs to be screwed in. It's actually sturdy enough to hold in with screw holes drilled.

Just be sure to get closed cell, so it won't leak...

3/8 should work for your application. Good luck and post your result!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It hardly moves at all. You can cut maybe 1/16 under, and it should work great. I also like this for making tweeter mounts behind door cards in tight spaces (like BMWs) where the mount needs to be screwed in. It's actually sturdy enough to hold in with screw holes drilled.

Just be sure to get closed cell, so it won't leak...

3/8 should work for your application. Good luck and post your result!
Cool to hear about that. Where do you source the material? I'll definitely be posting my results with all of these attempts.
 

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Cool to hear about that. Where do you source the material? I'll definitely be posting my results with all of these attempts.
Amazon. "Xcel" neoprene foam adhesive backed. Multiple thicknesses. Ensure it's closed-cell.

Lots of thicknesses and even available in rolls or squares.

Can also use "adhesive backed EVA" closed cell boat decking, but it's more $.
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did a search for closed cell EVA and neoprene came up. The old surfer in me was like, wetsuit material?? It is! :ROFLMAO: But that does make sense, and is something I'm familiar with, but didn't make the connection in my head. Cool, I'll procure some. Thanks!
 
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I did a search for closed cell EVA and neoprene came up. The old surfer in me was like, wetsuit material?? It is! :ROFLMAO: But that does make sense, and is something I'm familiar with, but didn't make the connection in my head. Cool, I'll procure some. Thanks!
Yep. But it's a bit more dense than a wetsuit. The EVA is a slightly different compound, I believe (??) but is almost identical to the neoprene. Good luck.
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, I'm seeing there are different stiffness ratings - wetsuits require softer, more flexible, but it appears to be generally the same stuff. I'll be sure to get the firmer type. Whenever I feel like I'm starting to have some well-rounded knowledge of car audio parts/materials, I discover how little I know! The learning is part of the fun.
 
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Is it too large that some butyl rope wouldn't work? Or would that be too ugly and visible? Maybe mount the midrange to the backside of the panel and use a grille to sandwich the mounting area flat?
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is it too large that some butyl rope wouldn't work? Or would that be too ugly and visible? Maybe mount the midrange to the backside of the panel and use a grille to sandwich the mounting area flat?
Interesting thought. I'm not sure I have enough clearance behind the card to bottom mount, nor do I have grills - I got an email response from Morel that they should be in stock in a few weeks. But I will investigate that mounting option. I've never used butyl rope - I've assumed it is rather sticky and it probably wouldn't look great. Thanks for the ideas!
 

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Interesting thought. I'm not sure I have enough clearance behind the card to bottom mount, nor do I have grills - I got an email response from Morel that they should be in stock in a few weeks. But I will investigate that mounting option. I've never used butyl rope - I've assumed it is rather sticky and it probably wouldn't look great. Thanks for the ideas!
The CCWR is realy good sounding.. you will not be disappointed. Be careful since it has a kind of thin stamped frame it could bend. I would get a plastic spacer ring... and bondo, filler putty, etc.. cleanly and carefully fill the gap between the plastic spacer ring and the door card with the bondo or filler being careful not to get any on the door card.. probably tape the door card and the spacer so you only get it in the gap not on the door card or spacer... then paint the filler with black paint and try to texture it to match the door card with some kind of tool or use rustoleum black textured paint.. to paint the small gap of filler you added... then mount the speaker to the plastic spacer.
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got impatient while waiting for supplies to arrive, so I mounted the Morels directly into the door cards & just used weather stripping I had laying around to seal them. Looks completely ridiculous, but is really just for testing purposes. I disconnected the SI M3s/pods at the amp, but I'll probably be removing them and putting them up for sale. Tonally & dynamically, the M3 sound great, but the the CCWR254s in the door card is working better for me. The more laid-back sound of the Morels work better with my 55 year old ears, but I also think having them more or less vertical with the tweeters and being wider placed have helped make the imaging tighter and more precise, and soundstaging is a bit wider and more centered. Next up will be trying both PVC and fiberglass mounts - I'm preparing to build a fiberglass sub in the trunk, and I figure making smaller mid pods will be good practice for working with fiberglass, which I've never done. I may also try a fiberglass enclosure with the M3s in the same door card location for a more apples to apples comparison with the Morels, but since the existing Valicar pods are made for the M3, I can't really see keeping the drivers. But the reality is that what I'm hearing from the Morels isn't making me want to look elsewhere. So glad I got spare door cards, A-pillars, and sail panels to mess with!

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