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Discussion Starter #1
what you see is measurements from the left and right front stage with no sub stage in the mix. i turned the subs off on the twk 88. what do yall see? still learning. theres definetly more to car audio than speakers and fiberglass. thanx

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Are you tuning to a target curve? It looks like 100hz to 600hz is about 20db louder than the rest. That's not going to sound very accurate. Is this a 2 way or 3 way system? Is it passive or active? Much more info needs to be provided.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you tuning to a target curve? It looks like 100hz to 600hz is about 20db louder than the rest. That's not going to sound very accurate. Is this a 2 way or 3 way system? Is it passive or active? Much more info needs to be provided.
It's an active 2 way
 

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Where's the crossover set?
If somewhere between 2000Hz to 3000Hz you really need to redo the equalizing on the midbass driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Where's the crossover set?
If somewhere between 2000Hz to 3000Hz you really need to redo the equalizing on the midbass driver.
I have my crossovers for the tweeters at 2500 and the mids at 80. The EQ on the twk 88 is flat I haven't made any type of EQ adjustments only time alignment and crossovers. I have an appointment to have the system properly tuned on the 2nd of June I was just trying to learn how to tune beforehand.
 

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I have my crossovers for the tweeters at 2500 and the mids at 80. The EQ on the twk 88 is flat I haven't made any type of EQ adjustments only time alignment and crossovers. I have an appointment to have the system properly tuned on the 2nd of June I was just trying to learn how to tune beforehand.
I went active for the first time a year ago. I've done all my tuning on my own. I use Skizer's video almost every time I do some tuning. I was able to get some pretty good results. It takes some time to get familiar with REW, but its worth it.

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Are you running fully active, i.e. one amp channel for each midbass and one for each tweeter?
If yes, please post individual response measurements.
Right now your EQ is way off in the 80-600Hz region. It's way too much midbass and lower mids compared to the upper range of the spectrum.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are you running fully active, i.e. one amp channel for each midbass and one for each tweeter?
If yes, please post individual response measurements.
Right now your EQ is way off in the 80-600Hz region. It's way too much midbass and lower mids compared to the upper range of the spectrum.
No. I have the Ciare mid-range (s) bridged. They are 8 ohm drivers that are 92 DB efficient. Yes everything is fully active I have no passive crossovers in the system. All I have is an active 2 way front stage, no rear fill, and 1 stereo integrity rm15 in a sealed enclosure powered by a Memphis audio PRX 1500 .1. I have noticed that the upper mid-range sounds a little lifeless. If I'm not boosting or cutting anything on the EQ and it's flat with the twk-88 sounds to me like that's the speaker not so much the tuning, correct?


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Something with your tuning is very wrong.
You said your crossover for that midbass is set to 2500Hz, but you got a decline of almost 20db in the middle of the response of the midbass. Either that midbass is not good for a 2-way setup or something is very wrong with your tuning.
Measure each driver alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The trolls are baiting you, man. They know they'll get a rise out of you & turn another one of your threads into a shit show. Just ignore them & focus on the guys that are trying to help.
You're right
 

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I am not baiting or trolling and it really has to do with another thread but this is why a good tuner is worth $200 bucks/hour. If you can take acoustical chaos and turn it into audio bliss in three hours you deserve your pay.
I do however encourage people to learn to tune their own cars because with knowledge there is wisdom. The more you understand about the what's, why's and how's, the sooner you will be able to charge $200/hour. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am not baiting or trolling and it really has to do with another thread but this is why a good tuner is worth $200 bucks/hour. If you can take acoustical chaos and turn it into audio bliss in three hours you deserve your pay.
I do however encourage people to learn to tune their own cars because with knowledge there is wisdom. The more you understand about the what's, why's and how's, the sooner you will be able to charge $200/hour. :cool:
I've always been a pretty good installer but never truly got the grasp of tuning. It's like going to school again I straight-up feel like I'm taking some classes in college. I've got a decent mic and solid software but I'm still going to take it to a pro and get some pointers from them while they're doing it.
 

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I've always been a pretty good installer but never truly got the grasp of tuning. It's like going to school again I straight-up feel like I'm taking some classes in college. I've got a decent mic and solid software but I'm still going to take it to a pro and get some pointers from them while they're doing it.
You don't need a phd in Astrophysics to tune a stereo as some people around here would have you think; it's just not that hard to grasp. With most things in life, stick with the basics & it's all trial & error.

I've only begun to dabble in tuning myself, so I'm probably wrong, but I'd speculate that boost in the low end is due to interior reflections & the roll off in the high end is due to the tweeter being off axis. Which would lead me to think these are mounted in the stock locations.

i'm not familiar with the TWK 88, but if it's a parametric eq, focus on the peaks first; bring those down the best you can. I found that adjusting the Q of the targeted frequency can smooth out a peak or valley with minimal equalization. If you're not wanting to modify the speaker locations & depending on your preference for the high end, for me I like high end roll off, you can increase the tweeter channel output, then bring down the peaks. Avoid over boosting if you can. Once you've achieved a relatively flat response, season to taste.

Again, this shit ain't rocket science. Just get in there & mess with shit. Make a change & see how it effects the curve; rinse & repeat. At the end of the day, it only matters if YOU think it sounds good.

Good luck
 

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Start with levels before anything else, that is a must... If the midbass is too high, gain it down, etc.

Do you have a house curve you are attempting to match?
 

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Start with levels before anything else, that is a must... If the midbass is too high, gain it down, etc.

Do you have a house curve you are attempting to match?
Yeah, this is why starting with a curve is important. I use the Audio Frog curve to get levels set, just to make sure the mids and tweets are smooth. The AF curve is a bit dull, so I deviate from it, but matching it as close as possible from about 200hz to 5khz or so will help. Add more bass, or treble from there, but when you do make sure it's smooth.
 

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Problem is, that the big step in output is right in the middle of the response of the midbass drivers, so i really think it's not gains or something, but a tuning issue.
Or the drivers are just plain unsuitable in a 2-way system.
Even without any EQ my midbass drivers don't show a response like this.
 
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