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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure where to start.. I've installed all my system but have not powered it up. I have no idea if I'm supposed to set gain on my amps and on my dsp? Or leave the amps wide open and do so only on the dsp? Or do I do both?

I realize I need to set the HZ levels for each channel in the dsp. There are so many settings I'm a bit bewildered. Not much on mosconi 8to12 Aerospace out there at all.. anyone have some insights or good links for me?

After this is when I start playing with my mic and REW? To set other values? And set distances etc.. for time delay.

Any help would be great.. first sound project ever.. learning as I go.. dont want to do pro install as I wont learn that way.. thank6
 

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You'll need to set the gains, level match, on the Mosconi and your amps. First set the input levels on the DSP to match the source. You'll need to enter the software to set channel bandwidths before you connect RCA's to your amps. Don't want o send a full range signal to your tweeters. Set the amps to match the signal output of the DSP. These adjustments are done outside of the software. Use the physical gain pots on the DSP and your amps to set gains.

Setting gains:

Time Alignment and other Tech tips:
https://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/

As for the other basic settings in the software, this is a good tutorial to get you started:

The video is for the older 6to8 but the basics apply to the Aerospace.
 

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As with any dsp you have to know what the system can do and how you need te set it all up... The sofware is not to difficult to use, but if you have no idea what you are doing it maybe ask someone near by you if they can help with the first setup to be safe not to kill anything...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, this is a good start. I don't know anyone near me that does car audio, other than shops whom wish to rather do the work than encourage a DIY noob.. ;-) I've just gotta take it slow and I guess ask here and there when I get stuck. My component speakers did come with Xovers, so for initial setup I can use those as a safety catch for tweeters and mids. Yet the goal is full 4way active with sub.
 

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Before you connect anything, you need to know the max clean volume from your headunit, everything set flat and centered.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so can i figure out the max clean volume from my HU without any fancy equipment? I have a calibrated mic, REW, some sound samples and a multimeter that's all I've got.

As far as setup goes.. android HU, 4 channels from preamp RCA running to DSP.. the dsp turns on and shows channels 4, sub, and digital producing sound waves (speakers off, yet I assume I'm getting correct signal). Next I have 4 channels (tweeters in pillars and 6.5 in front doors) RCAs from dsp to AS 100.4 amp. And RCAs for next 5 channels to a 5/30 amp. Powering 2.5 front speaker, 6.5 rear doors, and 10 sub in trunk.

These all have new 12 guage wiring and I sound dampened as best as I could considering the car I have :-(..

I've also ran all the speaker wire from the respective amps to their correct channels, being super OCD about making sure polarity was correct from dsp to amp to speakers. I have the amps hooked up except I have not co connected these to the car battery. 125 fuse from battery and 100 fuses at block.. also each unit has internal fuses 100 and 150..

That is pretty much it.

Thank you for the help
 

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If your amps have 100a and 150a fuses, the main power line from the battery should have a fuse at least 250a, as close to the battery as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok I will just buy a new fuse.. that is what came with the amp install kit I didn't alter anything, yet I knew I might have to change things up. Makes little sense having a lower power fuse up front then higher power ones down stream ;-).. I also saw a post about adding a capacitor to the tweeters positive line? If so what would my Hertz 280.3 need? & would my Audiofrog gb25 need one as well? And if so, which # for either?
 

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No need to fuse that high.... the 125a fuse is more then enough to listen music above normal listening levels! The fuse is there to protect the cable not the equipment, so fuse to the needs off the cable or lower.
 

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With those amps at full power the 125a fuse will blow but of course use the correct size power cables.
ON music you won't use anything near that power.... If you would do spl it might be the case but most off his speakers will blow earlier then the fuses....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm running Stinger 0 guage from battery to under back seats there I have a distribution block that runs 4 guage to each amp.. 100.4 has 3 feet of 4 guage from block and 5/30 has 2 feet from block. Total length of 0 guage is like 12 feet. All speaker wire is 12 guage knukonceptz stuff. Speakers are a mix of MLK mille and Audiofrog GB. I will not be doing spl stuff. Just want a commutable DD (drowned out my loud and uncomfortable car). In reality i should replace this car, yet I'd lose quite an investment.. race car gone DD. :-(..
 

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Not sure where to start.. I've installed all my system but have not powered it up. I have no idea if I'm supposed to set gain on my amps and on my dsp? Or leave the amps wide open and do so only on the dsp? Or do I do both?

I realize I need to set the HZ levels for each channel in the dsp. There are so many settings I'm a bit bewildered. Not much on mosconi 8to12 Aerospace out there at all.. anyone have some insights or good links for me?

After this is when I start playing with my mic and REW? To set other values? And set distances etc.. for time delay.

Any help would be great.. first sound project ever.. learning as I go.. dont want to do pro install as I wont learn that way.. thank6


Do two BW12 crossovers for each speaker
That will make a LR24 as the aerospace doesn’t have LR filters

Also the input can have an ADC overload petty easily and shut off the sound when deck too high of high volt deck

You have to switch to high level inputs than pretty much max out the input gain almost all the way . (It’s dumb IMO)

It’s a great sounding dsp tho. Very nice sounding filters, super low noise, good stop band rejection, once you get it you’ll love it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I found the beta has a wizard.. yet not my actual speakers, it gave me a starting point.. my difficulty is that these setups don't save nicely and I still have not set gain on my amps.. do I run the remote wire from the dsp to both amps? thanks for any input.. also there is LR 12 and 24 settings do they not work with right?
 
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