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Total set up overhaul?

1228 Views 8 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  I800C0LLECT
First let's start with my equipment in my 99 Tahoe, and hopefully one you guys can help with my delima (sp):

Alp CDA 9813 (decent processing, i.e. eq and time correction)
Alp X ref 6.5 in factory locations x over at 50hz 24db oct(two layers of dynamat)
Xtant 2200i for Alps
MTX amp (not sure the model, but runs 250w 2ohm stereo)
Two RF HE 10's in down firing box. .75 3ft per side

Keep in mind, I put the "thrift" in "thrifty". I have been collecting this equipment for 11 years and haven't gone over 1k yet.


1. Even with the time correction, the subs sound too localized in the rear
2. Subs are very loud, and that is it. No SQ here
3. Components lack low end power and sound a little muddy/nasal

I was wondering if I can just replace the mid ranges and get something with a little more clarity and umph in the lower region. I would like for it to sound like have have a couple of eights in the doors and pull the bass up front. (wishfull thinking i know). Also, what can I do about the sub situation. I have about 500 watts to work with and would like something smaller, just as loud, but more sq, and not so much of the localization.

I am sure this isn't enough info to solve my problem, so bring on the questions.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Wow...first thing I can say is those mids might be crossed a bit low :eek: Maybe try 100hz or 120hz @12db?


1) Probably localized due to vibrations.
2) Is that a problem? you like it?
3) Crossed too low. Try a 12db slope around 120hz or something.

If you had a little bit of delay to the subs and LP them higher it might help them couple better with the mids. Otherwise, did you treat your doors properly? You don't have to have a sub up front for your sub to compliment the stage. I tried exactly what you did at first and found that all it did was cause my doors to rattle a lot more. My sub sounds like it's in the windshield with the mid crossed at 100hz; just moving the HP on the mid changes my ability to localize the sub...sometimes we just need to bounce ideas and "see" what works.

EDIT: I don't know why this didn't pop into my head either you really expect a couple of mids to keep up with some 10's? You really need to work on those x-over points and power output.
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Changing the crossover points helped bring the bass upfront.

The subs don't like playing up to 100k. Any good replacements/ suggestions?

After reading that thread, should I invest in a three way set, or a midbass add on kit? Suggestions there?
Hrmmm. Subs don't like playing 100hz?...or 1000hz? Try a 24db slope on your subs if you're crossing at 100hz. You might even want to try reversing your polarity on top of that. Personally, unless you want VERY loud music you can probably make a 2-way work.

In my setup I used a 6.5" driver bandpassed from [email protected] slope to [email protected] The tweeter has an HP [email protected] To add, I made sure the tweeters were mounted on the same vertical axis as my mids. That allows me to time correct them as a single channel. I'm sure it's not perfect due to reflections but car audio is all about mitigating compromise in your installation.

What are you willing to give up in order to gain? Tuning a 3-way component setup is pretty rough. If I were you I'd stick with the 2-way for now. I have a feeling your subs are probably over-powering the components too.
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Mids 100hz at 12db
Subs 100hz at 24db

I will keep playing with it.

What setup are you running right now?
a/d/s/ 346is mids, 320is tweeters, DIYMA R12 subs, and bandpassed+attenuated rear fill that is time aligned for drivers seat.
Still playing with the Sub amp crossover, getting better as we go. Reversed the polarity of the subs, which helped bring it up front. Imaging, which I thought was good before, is becoming great. Soundstage is high and upfront, now the subs aren't localized, very up front.

Now, the subs still do not like playing up to 100 hz. Get a funny resonance from them. The box is well built, a little is front the floor of the Tahoe I believe, but mostly from the subs.

Any suggestions for upgrading the RF paper weights? One 12? Brands?

Remember, working with 500 watts, and def. do not want to go over 1.5 3ft. would love to stay around 1 3ft.
500 is really all you need in a tahoe. How about try an LP of [email protected] on the subs? At this point you're probably running into issues with panel resonance. That's where the DIY forum really takes off and comes into it's own because there's so much information about installation and how it effects speaker response.

I have a feeling you like to play loud. I've seen some installers go as far as playing test tones just to track down vibrations and kill them at the source. They would do some fairly wide sweeps too.

I've crossed my mids as high as 160hz @12db slope to keep vibrations down and minimize actual install since I'm using my stock door locations. My mid-range sounds phenomenal when I do that too. The mids sound great with my R12's crossed that high but if I want to keep my back seats up as a DD, some of the music doesn't play as well. If I keep the seats down, I lose my backseat but my response is VERY good.

Car Audio is give and take :) Without a lot of time and effort, it can be very difficult to get it perfect.
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