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Toyota Tundra components to beat girlfriend's Harman Kardon in her Volvo.

3575 Views 46 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Esscueonly
I need help guys! My girlfriend has a premium Harman Kardon audio system in her car. We both love it. She is teasing me about my Tundra's crappy stock sound system all the time. Yes, it is not amazing for sure. I also LOVE clear real sounding music, opera, classical music and hip hop.

My plan is to build an amazing sound system in my Tundra which equals or sounds better than the all around rich, detailed sound of her Volvo.

So HELP ME!!! I am desperate.

My Tundra is a non JBL system, no amplifier and no subwoofer. It has 6 speakers. (2 front, 2 rear and 2 on the instrument panel. no tweeters. )

I would like to replace the stock radio. (Android audio wouldbe great and reverse camera input, the rest I don't care. I just wan to have crystal clear sound...)

Budget: under $1000 or maybe $1500? I am willing to buy used amplifiers, speakers, etc!

Please help a Toyota owner to impress his girlfriend!!!! :)

I am going to do the installation myself!!!
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What year is your Tundra? Double Cab, Crewmax, etc.?

I've been experimenting with my '08 Double Cab for a couple years now. I could share some tips.



Edit: I see you have a 2010 Double Cab from your other thread.
Yes, please!!!
I'd recommend going with an active 3-way setup for the front stage and finding a good shallow sub depending on where you can locate the subwoofer according to your other thread. I wouldn't worry about the rear speakers.

I'd try to find a used Stereo Integrity BM mkIII, mkIV, or mkV ($250-$500). They're no longer in production, but sometimes you can find some used ones. They're not cheap either. JL Audio TW3's ($430-$480) are also a good option, but expensive as well. I'd stay away from the Pioneer shallow's. I was not very impressed. Hopefully others can chime in on a good budget sub options that can meet your depth requirements.

For midbass, I'd try and stay with the OEM 6x9 size. The Audiofrog GS690 ($380) is a popular option. You could try and find a decent budget 6x9 component set and add a 2.5" midrange driver. Alpine, Focal, Infinity, etc. has some decent sets. CDT might have a decent 6x9 that'll work, but keep in mind that you'll only have 3" of mounting depth to work with. You could also go the 6.5" midbass route with an adapter. A lot more options available if you want to downsize.

For the dash speakers, you could go with the Audiofrog GS25 ($270) or Morel CCWR254 ($189). You'll have to get some mounting adaptors for the Morels. You could also go with some 3.5" midrange drivers, but have to do some major mods to the dash and grille. Both the Audiofrog and Morel are "wideband" drivers that will play higher frequencies, but having tweeters pointing on-axis sounds better to me than just widebands firing up into the windshield. It's an option that could work well for you.

For tweeters, you can mount them low on the A-pillars or get some replacement sail panels for a JBL equipped Tundra. Stereo Integrity M25 ($200), SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G H1396 ($85), and LPG 26NA ($100) are some good budget options that I can think of.

For a DSP, I'd go with either the Dayton Audio DSP-408 ($180) or miniDSP C-DSP 6x8 ($330).

I'd stick with either Kenwood, Sony, or Pioneer for your Head Unit. Feeding it a good quality source will be key here. I've been pleased with using Tidal with wireless Android Auto.

For amplifiers, I'd find a good class A/B amplifier for your mids/highs and a good class D for the midbass/sub. I love the Sony XM-GS4 ($250). You could also find some used old school class A/B amps for a good deal. JL Audio RD amps are good if you can find a good deal with them used. D'Amore Engineering E-Series Amplifiers seem like popular budget amps too.
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3-way will NOT fit into your budget. 3-way will require 2 additional channels of amplification and a more expensive dsp. 3-way will also require custom modification to fit tweeters. I advise a 2-way with midbass (6.5") in doors and wideband (2.5-3.5") in dash.
3-way will NOT fit into your budget. 3-way will require 2 additional channels of amplification and a more expensive dsp. 3-way will also require custom modification to fit tweeters. I advise a 2-way with midbass (6.5") in doors and wideband (2.5-3.5") in dash.

I agree that's a good strategy on a budget.

I was curious how much I have invested in my active 3-way setup in my Tundra so I made a quick list. I spent a lot of time trying to find the best deals or best bang for the buck both new and used. My largest expense was my new Mosconi AS 100.4 that I plan to swap out for a used JL XD700/5.

I was "kind of" able to put my system together for under $1500 not including cables and measuring equipment. I also know prices have increased a lot recently. Here's a list of my purchases (w/ taxes+shipping) for reference if anyone is curious.

Stereo Integrity TM65 mkI pair
$115
DIYMA Classifieds
used on 06/03/2018

Dayton Audio DSP-408 w/bluetooth adapter
$147
Parts Express
new on 12/12/2019

Sony XM-GS4 Hi-Res Amplifier
$171
Sonic Electronix
new on 12/20/2019

Stereo Integrity BM mkIII
$125
FB Sound Quality Classifieds
used on 01/12/2020

Stereo Integrity M25 pair w/pods
$150
FB Sound Quality Classifieds
new on 04/02/2020

Atrend 10SME enclosure
$36
Sonic Electronix
new on 06/08/2020

Kenwood DDX9905s
$345
eBay
used on 07/04/2020

Stereo Integrity M3 copper pair
$145
FB Stereo Integrity Owners Group
used on 09/12/2020

Mosconi AS 100.4
$532
carfeature.de

new on 11/30/2019

or

JL Audio XD700/5
$200
DIYMA Classifieds

used on 04/30/2020


$1434 w/ JL XD700/5
$1766 w/ Mosconi AS 100.4
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I agree that's a good strategy on a budget.

I was curious how much I have invested in my active 3-way setup in my Tundra so I made a quick list. I spent a lot of time trying to find the best deals or best bang for the buck both new and used. My largest expense was my new Mosconi AS 100.4 that I plan to swap out for a used JL XD700/5.

I was "kind of" able to put my system together for under $1500 not including cables and measuring equipment. I also know prices have increased a lot recently. Here's a list of my purchases (w/ taxes+shipping) for reference if anyone is curious.

Stereo Integrity TM65 mkI pair
$115
DIYMA Classifieds
used on 06/3/2018

Dayton Audio DSP-408 w/bluetooth adapter
$147
Parts Express
new on 12/12/2019

Sony XM-GS4 Hi-Res Amplifier
$171
Sonic Electronix
new on 12/20/2019

Stereo Integrity BM mkIII
$125
FB Sound Quality Classifieds
used on 01/12/2020

Stereo Integrity M25 pair w/pods
$150
FB Sound Quality Classifieds
new on 04/02/2020

Atrend 10SME enclosure
$36
Sonic Electronix
new on 06/08/2020

Kenwood DDX9905s
$345
eBay
used on 07/04/2020

Stereo Integrity M3 copper pair
$145
FB Stereo Integrity Owners Group
new on 09/12/2020

Mosconi AS 100.4
$532
carfeature.de

new on 11/30/2019

or

JL Audio XD700/5
$200
DIYMA Classifieds

used on 04/30/2020


$1434 w/ JL XD700/5
$1766 w/ Mosconi AS 100.4
Yes, careful buying of used gear can result in meeting the number. Throw in sound deadening, power/ground/distribution, rca's and speaker baffles and you're pushing $2k. $36 for a sub enclosure? Is it made out of cardboard? :LOL:
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Yes, careful buying of used gear can result in meeting the number. Throw in sound deadening, power/ground/distribution, rca's and speaker baffles and you're pushing $2k. $36 for a sub enclosure? Is it made out of cardboard? :LOL:
I know! I had to double check my invoice. I got that for $36 shipped! It's double the price now.

Atrend makes some pretty nice enclosures for pre-fabs. I did have to cut the opening bigger to fit a 12 in it and also made some feet for downfiring it. Also replaced the terminal cup.


Camera accessory Film camera Wood Metal Composite material
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in my opinion, i would consider a set of these with a pair of Stevens Audio mb8 installed, then add a pair of tweeters that will work. i am not familiar with factory speaker location on that truck. you can paint the pods with the SEM Color Coat that matches your interior. also find some speaker grills that fit. i ordered a pair of 8" speaker grills from parts-express for my mb8 and they fit perfect.


here is a possible possible tweeter option. some prefer the silk:

my $0.02.

i am by no means a professional.
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Look, let's be realistic here, the OP is driving around in a 12 year out-dated beast and wants an AMAZING stereo for under $1k that is going to impress his GF, who has a BRAND NEW Volvo with an upgraded stereo, does anyone see the bigger problem here?

OK, I'm gonna take off my Car Stereo hat for a minute and put on my Dr. Phil hat and apply some tough love...

There is no way in hell, you are going to get an under $1k stereo, that impresses this woman. And looking at your vehicles, she is WAY out of your league...

So, as I see it you have two options:
1) BORROW $2,500 from this woman and add it to your $1k-$1.5k and MAYBE you can get a stereo that sounds as nice as hers...OR
2) Dump her and find a GF with a crappy old car (at least older than 2010) with a crappier stereo than you now have and SAVE yourself fifteen hundred dollars and the future humiliation of her dumping you down the road...

Next...
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With that budget you might not kill the Volvo's system, but you can definitely narrow the gap and possibly be able to match or very slightly best it. They're not bass heavy systems, so a concession can be made there. You'll have to skimp on some features and go with more average components. Assuming you can do the work yourself and can do some minor fab work (speaker adapter/mounting brackets - Option I & II), I'd probably try it this way:

Option IOption IIOption III
Radio:Kenwood DDX376BT
Best Buy: New ($299.99) | Open Box Excellent ($245.99)
Kenwood DDX376BT
Best Buy: New ($299.99) | Open Box Excellent ($245.99)
Kenwood DDX376BT
Best Buy: New ($299.99) | Open Box Excellent ($245.99)
DSP:headunit's DTA/EQ settingsheadunit's DTA/EQ settingsheadunit's DTA/EQ settings
Amp:Kenwood KAC-314
Best Buy: New ($199.99) | Open Box Excellent ($179.99)
Kenwood KAC-314
Best Buy: New ($199.99) | Open Box Excellent ($179.99)

Kenwood KAC-511
Best Buy: New ($199.99) | Open Box Excellent ($163.99)
Kenwood KAC-314
Best Buy: New ($199.99) | Open Box Excellent ($179.99)
Front Channel:Dayton Audio DC28F-8
Parts Express: ($45.00) [2 x $22.50]

Dayton Audio RS180-4
Parts Express: ($130.00) [2 x $62.98]
Dayton Audio DC28F-8
Parts Express: ($45.00) [2 x $22.50]

Dayton Audio RS180-4
Parts Express: ($130.00) [2 x $62.98]
JBL Club 605CSQ
Crutchfield: New ($259.95) | Open-Box ($220.96)
Rear Channel:stockstockstock
Sub:Kicker 46HS10 *
Crutchfield: New ($332.96) | Open-Box ($316.31)
Kicker 48CDF124
Crutchfield: New ($179.99)
Kicker 46HS10 *
Crutchfield: New ($332.96) | Open-Box ($316.31)
Misc:2 x 15uF 100V Electrolytic Non-Polarized Capacitor
Parts Express: ($2.12) [2 x $1.06]

Rockville RWK4CU 4AWG Gauge 100% Copper Amp Kit
Amazon: ($59.95)

2x Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener Bulk Pack with Installation Kit, 50sq.ft.
Amazon: ($169.52) [2 x $84.76]

Misc Parts & Supplies
various: ($45)
2 x 15uF 100V Electrolytic Non-Polarized Capacitor
Parts Express: ($2.12) [2 x $1.06]

Rockville RWK4CU 4AWG Gauge 100% Copper Amp Kit
Amazon: ($59.95)

Rockville RTR174 17 Foot 4 Channel Twisted Pair RCA
Amazon: ($14.95)

InstallGear Distribution Block 1x 0/4GA in | 2x 4/8GA out
Amazon: ($9.99)

2x Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener Bulk Pack with Installation Kit, 50sq.ft.
Amazon: ($169.52) [2 x $84.76]

Misc Parts & Supplies
various: ($65)
Rockville RWK4CU 4AWG Gauge 100% Copper Amp Kit
Amazon: ($59.95)

2x Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener Bulk Pack with Installation Kit, 50sq.ft.
Amazon: ($169.52) [2 x $84.76]

Misc Parts & Supplies
various: ($45)
EST Total:~ $1157 — $1285~ $1267 — $1377~ $1238 — $1368

* Yes, that is a powered hideaway sub if options I and III. Given the budget, it'll do the job for now and can always be replaced/sold in the future. Since a hideaway is akin to heresy for some, option II exists.

If you want a DSP, figure another $180 for the Dayton Audio DSP-408 or $305 for the miniDSP 6x8. That can always be added to the system at a later date if needed. Just keep in mind that adding the DSP means you'll need a decent calibrated USB microphone like the MiniDSP UMIK-1 or the Dayton UMM-6 to use with software like REW.

While the DTA/EQ setting in the aftermarket Kenwood head units will never beat a true DSP setup, it's amazing how well they can fake it. Especially if the time is put into tuning/setting up all the system components correctly.
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Look, let's be realistic here, the OP is driving around in a 12 year out-dated beast and wants an AMAZING stereo for under $1k that is going to impress his GF, who has a BRAND NEW Volvo with an upgraded stereo, does anyone see the bigger problem here?

OK, I'm gonna take off my Car Stereo hat for a minute and put on my Dr. Phil hat and apply some tough love...

There is no way in hell, you are going to get an under $1k stereo, that impresses this woman. And looking at your vehicles, she is WAY out of your league...

So, as I see it you have two options:
1) BORROW $2,500 from this woman and add it to your $1k-$1.5k and MAYBE you can get a stereo that sounds as nice as hers...OR
2) Dump her and find a GF with a crappy old car (at least older than 2010) with a crappier stereo than you now have and SAVE yourself fifteen hundred dollars and the future humiliation of her dumping you down the road...

Next...
Finally a voice of reason. I've been down this road many times. Do yourself a favor and slow the F down. A $1000 won't buy much these days. Use that $1000 and start with sound deadening at least the doors. You have now made your truck sound twice as nice. Next year buy a $1000 two way componentent speaker system. Keep adding slowly if you have to. You will never out do a brand new Volvo unless you spend at least $3000 and do your own install.
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Look, let's be realistic here, the OP is driving around in a 12 year out-dated beast and wants an AMAZING stereo for under $1k that is going to impress his GF, who has a BRAND NEW Volvo with an upgraded stereo, does anyone see the bigger problem here?

OK, I'm gonna take off my Car Stereo hat for a minute and put on my Dr. Phil hat and apply some tough love...

There is no way in hell, you are going to get an under $1k stereo, that impresses this woman. And looking at your vehicles, she is WAY out of your league...

So, as I see it you have two options:
1) BORROW $2,500 from this woman and add it to your $1k-$1.5k and MAYBE you can get a stereo that sounds as nice as hers...OR
2) Dump her and find a GF with a crappy old car (at least older than 2010) with a crappier stereo than you now have and SAVE yourself fifteen hundred dollars and the future humiliation of her dumping you down the road...

Next...
You options are the easiest way to deal with the situation! LOL :) I like challenges! We all like challenges here that is why we are here!!! I am going to build something amazing!
You options are the easiest way to deal with the situation! LOL :) I like challenges! We all like challenges here that is why we are here!!! I am going to build something amazing!

Seems like you knew I my comments were - tongue-in-cheek and I do wish you the best, and building in stages is the best advice...!

Cheers
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I did a quick google and it looks like the hard-coded processing in the non-jbl tundra is in the factory amp under the driver’s seat, so you should have full range high level signal going into the factory amp you can tie into. If true, that’s a good thing- you may not need a new head unit, just an amp or dsp that takes high level inputs, or an loc to connect rcas.

You could consider just starting small and adding a sub to the stock system.

These kits look interesting- probably won’t knock your socks off but cheap ($230), better than whatever cardboard sub Harmon used in your gf’s car and it’s custom made for your vehicle:

2007-2013 Toyota Tundra Double Cab Truck Harmony R104 Dual 10" Sub Box Enclosure - HA-SUB-PACKAGE301
They also sell the box by itself or with a couple of other sub options.

this amp would drive it and has high level inputs. That would leave $500 for the front stage and accessories…

do you have any more info on the stock speakers? Do you have dash speakers, tweeters in pillars, etc?
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My 2009 non-JBL double cab Tundra has no factory amplifier under seat. Factory head unit has 4 pairs of speaker wires. The dash tweeter has a 3.3 uF capacitor and is wired in parallel with the front door 6x9 to the front speaker wires. The other 2 pair of speaker wires go to the rear door 6.5” speakers. The factory head unit speaker outs have factory equalization applied and are not flat.
2
I've experienced the same with my 2008 non-JBL Double Cab. Here is a copy of the wiring diagram straight from the 2010 service manual.

Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Technology
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Pattern
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I did a quick google and it looks like the hard-coded processing in the non-jbl tundra is in the factory amp under the driver’s seat, so you should have full range high level signal going into the factory amp you can tie into. If true, that’s a good thing- you may not need a new head unit, just an amp or dsp that takes high level inputs, or an loc to connect rcas.

You could consider just starting small and adding a sub to the stock system.

These kits look interesting- probably won’t knock your socks off but cheap ($230), better than whatever cardboard sub Harmon used in your gf’s car and it’s custom made for your vehicle:

2007-2013 Toyota Tundra Double Cab Truck Harmony R104 Dual 10" Sub Box Enclosure - HA-SUB-PACKAGE301
They also sell the box by itself or with a couple of other sub options.

this amp would drive it and has high level inputs. That would leave $500 for the front stage and accessories…

do you have any more info on the stock speakers? Do you have dash speakers, tweeters in pillars, etc?
1. You are the best!!!! So you mean I already have the wiring from the head unit to the area under the seat even if they didn't install the factory amplifier in my truck in the factory? Can I see that link? I would like to find out which wiring and how to identify it...

2. I have 6.5 in 3 in deep speakers. 4 in the 4 doors and 2 smaller one in the dash. No tweeters. Somebody makes covering for the Tundra for a set of new tweeters in the door. I can get 2 of them.
Sorry, thought I linked it. Post #4 says amp is under passenger seat not driver seat as I incorrectly translated…

I've experienced the same with my 2008 non-JBL Double Cab. Here is a copy of the wiring diagram straight from the 2010 service manual.
ugh, that might complicate things. I guess the article I linked was talking about newer trucks. Sorry, I should have paid closer attention…

You still might be able to use the built-in amp output with an loc…
2. I have 6.5 in 3 in deep speakers. 4 in the 4 doors and 2 smaller one in the dash. No tweeters. Somebody makes covering for the Tundra for a set of new tweeters in the door. I can get 2 of them.
Your Tundra should have come with factory 6x9's in the front doors. Previous owner must have swapped them out to 6.5's? Dash speakers are 2.5".

This must be an older article, but gives you a good reference. Plenty of 6x9 adapters for aftermarket 6x9's. I've even seen some Tundra adapters for 8" midbass driver's for the front doors.

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