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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

Searching for specific parameters for a midbass is a bit daunting. I've looked for hours trying to find one that will work within budget.

Okay, here are the parameters of what I'm looking for:

$200 or less for the pair.
8" midbass woofer design.
92db sesitivity @ [email protected]/1m
150 to 175-watts RMS
4-ohms
Have a clean, controlled output from 50Hz to 250Hz @ it's RMS rating.
Free-air design (optimal) or small sealed of .5 cuft or less, (ie something that will work with a fiberglass door panel enclosure design)

The midbass will be not have the luxury of the amp doing a highpass, so it's either going to be high-passed using a passive filter @ probably 70Hz with a 12db/octave slope, or an F-Mod type RCA device in-line.

Does anyone with good knowledge of products know of a "fit"? I've honestly looked today and didn't want to ask but both google and here I've hit a dead-end many times.
 

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I know of a perfect midbass for you, but as it turns out the somabitch can only handle 149 watts and will only play in large pacifist-designed box (hates the violence of that bass air.) But best of luck with your search Ditt's beet farm ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What the **** does [email protected]/1m mean?

Why are you so hung up on sensitivity and power ratings, when you clearly don't understand them?
I'm just trying to match up a midbass to my other drivers. It won't hurt to have them matching. I'm just paranoid that at different volumes they are not going to sound correct together. Sensitivity is an indication of how efficient the driver is with each watt. It seems logical to me that if two speakers have unmatched sensitivity they may have radically different behavior when running the same wattage.

For instance, you get two speakers with similar design but unmatched sensitivity by 3db. Put one on your right channel and the other on your left channel. You might have them sounding decent together with a balance adjustment at volume 20, but when you crank it to volume 35 they need to be re-balanced again. See where I'm going with this? THAT is what I'm worried about when selecting a matching speaker.

So sue me for being paranoid. :cool:
 

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You know you can level match through gains right? I mean this is if you are running active and not mismatching components to a passive crossover
 

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I'm just trying to match up a midbass to my other drivers. It won't hurt to have them matching. I'm just paranoid that at different volumes they are not going to sound correct together. Sensitivity is an indication of how efficient the driver is with each watt. It seems logical to me that if two speakers have unmatched sensitivity they may have radically different behavior when running the same wattage.

For instance, you get two speakers with similar design but unmatched sensitivity by 3db. Put one on your right channel and the other on your left channel. You might have them sounding decent together with a balance adjustment at volume 20, but when you crank it to volume 35 they need to be re-balanced again. See where I'm going with this? THAT is what I'm worried about when selecting a matching speaker.

So sue me for being paranoid. :cool:
Doesn't work that way. If it did, horns could only be mated to 18" woofers.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
An 8" driver that will handle 150w at 50hz free-air........not gonna happen.
Cool. So, I need to build an enclosure then? Hmm. This at gives me a limitation factor I didn't expect and makes me weigh things differently. Perhaps then a midbass won't be necessary and I should just stick with my comps set at 120Hz highpass from the amp and try to get my subs to do the duty. Problem with that is, I don't know why, but I like having a little bass from the doors. Call me kooky, but having that seems to make it sound better, even if it's just a tactile or 'feel' effect. :(
 

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Elemental Designs 9kv.2 in a small sealed enclosure.

I HATE when subs try to play midbass. Get some proper midbass drivers or cross your components lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Doesn't work that way. If it did, horns could only be mated to 18" woofers.
I just seems to have it stuck in my head that if the sensitivity doesn't match, it will not sound right. I know I can use the amp gain to match them up but I can't help but to think at different volumes/wattage points they will lose sync in their output at some point. It just seems to make sense, I mean, if one driver behaves differently in relation to power input, why would you match it with another driver that outputs more efficiently per watt? Call me confused if that isn't the case. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Elemental Designs 9kv.2 in a small sealed enclosure.

I HATE when subs try to play midbass. Get some proper midbass drivers or cross your components lower.
Isn't this considered a 'sub' though? So, are you recommending it or not?
 

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You know you can level match through gains right? I mean this is if you are running active and not mismatching components to a passive crossover
x2

this is the benefit of having an active setup. it's essentially what the original members of this site founded the site on.


tspence, have you considered going active and ditching your quest to stay passive? no matter your reasons to not go active, I'm pretty sure you're going to solve a lot of your 'problems' if you allow yourself to drive each speaker with it's own dedicated channel of power.


summary: go active. though you may learn a lot, you seem to be running in circles. from your posts I get the gist that you're not so much up for doing what you say you want to do (ie: build a passive). save yourself the headache and at least try an active setup. the ability to mix and match drivers with much less effort will suit you VERY well.
 

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OK, her skin color doesn't matter , nor her height weight ,etc..,

Now take your pants off and get yer bean snapped !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
x2

this is the benefit of having an active setup. it's essentially what the original members of this site founded the site on.


tspence, have you considered going active and ditching your quest to stay passive? no matter your reasons to not go active, I'm pretty sure you're going to solve a lot of your 'problems' if you allow yourself to drive each speaker with it's own dedicated channel of power.


summary: go active. though you may learn a lot, you seem to be running in circles. from your posts I get the gist that you're not so much up for doing what you say you want to do (ie: build a passive). save yourself the headache and at least try an active setup. the ability to mix and match drivers with much less effort will suit you VERY well.
Maybe you've missed my point in all this. I DO want to go active but still want to match sensitivity because it just seems 'wrong' not to. I would like some more information about how different speakers can not match in sensitivity and stay at similar volume as more wattage is applied. I just want to be sure. :cool:
 

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I just seems to have it stuck in my head that if the sensitivity doesn't match, it will not sound right. I know I can use the amp gain to match them up but I can't help but to think at different volumes/wattage points they will lose sync in their output at some point. It just seems to make sense, I mean, if one driver behaves differently in relation to power input, why would you match it with another driver that outputs more efficiently per watt? Call me confused if that isn't the case. :confused:
When you lower the output of the louder driver you are giving it less power. After that, whatever gain you add to each is equal for both so output raises equally as well.
 
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