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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I took out the factory speakers and added in some Infinity Kappa 6.5 components. The woofers sound great, and the tweeters do too, BUT, there is a hiss coming from them. When I put the factory tweeter back in, the HISS is gone, but it sounds like a wet towel is covering it.... which is the reason they were replaced.

I tried to get rid of the hiss by adding various resistors and capacitors, but none of them seem to do much to get rid of it. They do have an effect on the volume of the tweeter though.

Please help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Maybe try moving the ground. Is this running off factory power or aftermarket amp/hu?
It's running off of factory power. I just did a direct replacements of the factory speakers with the Infinity Kappa components. It does not get louder when the car is running or when I rev it up. It's there when the car is off and just running from battery power. It has to be that the aftermarket tweeters are more sensitive than the factory tweeters.

Any ideas what my next steps to get rid of it should be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Probably ground loop.
I've been doing all the tests with the car off. I turned it on and pressed the gas a few times. The hiss stayed exactly the same. It didn't get louder or quieter. That's the easiest way I know to test for a group loop.
I really think we are dealing with a sensitivity issue on the tweeter.
 

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If the tweeter is quite a bit more sensitive than the old one, I would expect it to play louder too.

You could build some L pads from resistors, there are online calculators..
 

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Yes, this is because the new tweeter is more sensitive. the noise was there before it was just below the audible threshold... just like @bnae38 said.. you need an L pad to attenuate the output before it reaches the tweeter so you will not hear the hiss when your volume is turned down.. its a PITA i do everything possible to keep my system from doing it.. i cannot stand any humm or hiss.
 

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If it is white noise and the engine is off, then priably not a ground loop??
Ground loops can still occur with car off. It's just a difference in potential between devices. Im leaning towards another cause for this but its hard to say. Question is, does the noise exist with the factory tweeter but he can't hear it? If so than the root cause isn't the tweeter, its the factory HU/amp. At the same time, factory grounds can be pretty ****. Maybe running a new power and ground to the battery would help... Otherwise the OP needs a new source/amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, this is because the new tweeter is more sensitive. the noise was there before it was just below the audible threshold... just like @bnae38 said.. you need an L pad to attenuate the output before it reaches the tweeter so you will not hear the hiss when your volume is turned down.. its a PITA i do everything possible to keep my system from doing it.. i cannot stand any humm or hiss.
Exactly what I'm thinking. I have several different resistors and capacitors (kits from Amazon).

I have tried all of the following:
  1. Adding a resistor on the positive line of values: 1.2, 2, 3.3, and 4.3 Ohms.
  2. Adding a capacitor on the positive line of values 2.2uF, 4.7uF, 10uF, 22uF, and 47uF.
The volume changed whenever I added in the resistors/caps, but the hissing remained throughout. I tried each of these 1 at a time in series on the positive line going to the tweeter.
 

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The reason why the hiss is so prominent has nothing to do with ground loops.
Sensitivity is not to blame either.
It is the factory eq in the head unit. The factory tweeters response most likely rolls off around 10k and is crossed over at 8 or 10k with a cap.
The cheapest way to get the response except able is to use a massive amount of eq all the way up to 30k hertz in some cases 15 or 20db of boost. And thats at 30k.
So when you swap in a half decent tweeter you hear the hiss. Prominently. In some cases the hiss can be louder than music at all volume levels.
Some audiocontrol units get blamed for white noise when in reality the loc simply can't knock down 20 dB of boost at 30k.
 

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Exactly what I'm thinking. I have several different resistors and capacitors (kits from Amazon).

I have tried all of the following:
  1. Adding a resistor on the positive line of values: 1.2, 2, 3.3, and 4.3 Ohms.
  2. Adding a capacitor on the positive line of values 2.2uF, 4.7uF, 10uF, 22uF, and 47uF.
The volume changed whenever I added in the resistors/caps, but the hissing remained throughout. I tried each of these 1 at a time in series on the positive line going to the tweeter.
The cap would need to go between + and -, (not inline).


So..... how do I fix it? It's a brand new 2021 VW Tiguan R-Line if that helps at all.
Turning the gain down.
Using the resister line does that to an extent… maybe a cap brethren the +/- ,Then a larger resistor to the speaker after that… or visa—versa.


... Otherwise the OP needs a new source/amp.
No Argument with the last part. But it still deserves some work to understand if it is the source/amp.
if there were RCAs from the HU, then it would make lifer easier.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The cap would need to go between + and -, (not inline).




Turning the gain down.
Using the resister line does that to an extent… maybe a cap brethren the +/- ,Then a larger resistor to the speaker after that… or visa—versa.




No Argument with the last part. But it still deserves some work to understand if it is the source/amp.
if there were RCAs from the HU, then it would make lifer easier.
Sweet! These are the answers I'm looking for. Being a noob to all this I guess I figured it needed to be in series with the woofer, not in parallel. I'll give it a try!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Without a dsp there is not much you can do.
You could add an inductor in in line and lowpass the tweeter around 20k you would need a 0.03 inductor in line with the positive wire.
If the cap across the tweeter doesn't fix it when I try it tomorrow, I'm down to move to the next step. If that's a DSP, give me a recommendation for an inexpensive yet decent one!
 

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2021 Volkswagen Tiguan R-Line
You need the dsp. The easiest way these days is a 5 channel amp dsp combo.
Jl audio vxi amps are great. They use a Bluetooth app works.
They will take care of any eq and correct any all pass filters they may be using.
Then you have a full blown dsp to play with.
They also different set up modes. 3 from beginner to pro.
Kinda pricy but I feel like you got the coin.
Do yourself a favor and put the capacitors away and don't try and reground anything.
The car is less than 6 months old. The factory grounds are still flawless.
 
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