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Discussion Starter #1
So I want to glass in my tweets in the A-Pilar.. problem is that I just cannot make the tweeter rings. The idea is to use a smaller hole drill bit and a larger hole drill bit to make the inner and outter cuts, thus making a ring.

The problem is that regardless of what wood I use (tried particle board, MDF, Plywood) the ring would just fall apart during the drilling process.

This is really kicking my butt, and has been the hardest part of my whole stereo install.

how do you guys make your small tweeter rings?
 

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what are you using to cut? hole saw? paddle bit? try and make sure the board you are cutting has a firm backing so you cut all the way through and dont just blow out the back when its close to cutting through. should save you the headache :)
 

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Use hole saw bits and clamp the piece of wood tightly to a solid surface you can drill straight into. Drill biggest first , reclamp , drill smaller hole, using same pilot hole from the holesaw.
 

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Drill press helps, but I know that most people don't have access to one. Also as opposed to clamping, you can screw the piece to a scrap using the mounting holes locations of the tweeters. And if you have an air compressor you can keep the hole saw cleaner and cooler as you drill with a constant blast of air.

Goodluck!
 

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I've not tried this with something as small as a tweeter ring (I've used it to hold much large pieces) but a really simple way to hold your piece is double sided carpet tape. It's very thin and you just tape your piece to a sacrificial board like a sheet of MFD (nice flat smooth surface for the tape to grip to). Make sure it's free of dirt and dust.
 

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Buy some cutting boards - and use the plastic
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think most of my problem was that I was attempting to make the inside portion of the ring big enough to fit the tweeter into, an makeing the outside portion of the ring just large enough to match the outter diameter of the tweeter. This combination made the difference in the two diameters about 1/4 of an inch, and that is just too small of a diameter to stand up to the torque the drill bits put on the wood.

I was using hole cutting bits not paddle ones. But still there is a lot of torque. I was using a scrap backing so I could drill all the way through without a punch through kind of effect.

I am trying an outter diameter that is larger than the outter diameter of the tweeter by a good 1/2 inch.. so that should make it more do-able. Also I will try to use some left over plastic cutting board from when I made the baffles for my door speakers.
 

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Buy the good bimetal hole saws. Ditto the clamping comments. Go slow and let the drill slowly cut the wood. Use harder wood, like poplar or something. Soft wood you will have some tear out no matter how hard you try. Another trick, sandwich a thin layer of wood on top to stop top splintering.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk
 

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If you are using hole saws...cut the larger one first and don't go all the way through the material. then cut the smaller one all the way through and go back and finish the larger one. The saw should be self steadying at that point and you won't need the pilot hole.

I have had good luck with a circle jig to cut the outer diameter ring and forster bit for the inner; but I have a cheapo drill press. You can use a circle jig for both, but your pilot hole and pin will need to run all the way into your waste board so it is consistent through the process- I'd do the inner circle first, then the outer with the baffle board clamped to the waste board.
 

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Another option is to use PVC. Take your tweeter to your local Lowe's or Home Depot, fit it up into PVC. Look for one where the OD of the tweeter closely matches the PVC. You may have to slightly sand the ID to get it to fit, but it's no big deal. It is MUCH more solid than any wood ring and you can attach the tweeter using a hot glue gun. If you don't have one and only need it for this, you can get them for less than $5 at Walmart. I personally LOVE using hot glue and plan to get a good gun in the future.

If you're having a hard time picturing this, here are some pictures from my Maxima build: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1100547-post109.html
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Another option is to use PVC. Take your tweeter to your local Lowe's or Home Depot, fit it up into PVC. Look for one where the OD of the tweeter closely matches the PVC. You may have to slightly sand the ID to get it to fit, but it's no big deal. It is MUCH more solid than any wood ring and you can attach the tweeter using a hot glue gun. If you don't have one and only need it for this, you can get them for less than $5 at Walmart. I personally LOVE using hot glue and plan to get a good gun in the future.

If you're having a hard time picturing this, here are some pictures from my Maxima build: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1100547-post109.html
That is really nice.. Funny you shoudl say that because I had started with some PVC, cut it at the correct angle and was in the process of hot gluing it when I decided I really wanted the tweets kinda in-set with a ridge that comes around and is even with the tweeter falange, to make it look good. I dont know if I am explaining it well but think of the a sub and how they flush mount a sub.

I did manage to get one ring made, without the in-set ridge though. I am thinking of using some 1/4 MDF to make an outter falange and glue that to my mdf ring... i will try to post some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you are using hole saws...cut the larger one first and don't go all the way through the material. then cut the smaller one all the way through and go back and finish the larger one. The saw should be self steadying at that point and you won't need the pilot hole.
that is the method I was using. I did get it to work if I used a larger outter ring making the ring thicker. But that doesn't solve my "make a ridge so it is in-set issue". Read above for more.
I have had good luck with a circle jig to cut the outer diameter ring and forster bit for the inner; but I have a cheapo drill press. You can use a circle jig for both, but your pilot hole and pin will need to run all the way into your waste board so it is consistent through the process- I'd do the inner circle first, then the outer with the baffle board clamped to the waste board.
I had thought of a router but I guessed the diameters were too small for a router.. hearing you had success I will try it though, thanks for the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Buy the good bimetal hole saws. Ditto the clamping comments. Go slow and let the drill slowly cut the wood. Use harder wood, like poplar or something. Soft wood you will have some tear out no matter how hard you try. Another trick, sandwich a thin layer of wood on top to stop top splintering.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk
All good ideas. I was using MDF and that is real soft.. I will try something a bit harder next time and the idea of using a cutting board was a good one too. I used a cutting board on my last rings and they turned out well - though too small for these tweets.. but that was hours of sitting with a dremmel and making the little Rabit edge.
 

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that is the method I was using. I did get it to work if I used a larger outter ring making the ring thicker. But that doesn't solve my "make a ridge so it is in-set issue". Read above for more.
Ahhh, new constraints ;)

router with circle jig if you can get it to work that small- I don't see where you listed the actual sizes you were going for- ID/overall OD/recess OD.

Then my advice would fall back on tooling that I have available- a drill press and forstner bit set. :blush::(
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I thought I would show a few pics of what I am doing and what my challanges are....

Some pics of my previous rings, and one of the carnage left behind by the fabricating process.


Based on some of your comments I decide to go pack to the PCV rout, but people on this forum are harsh if your tweeters are not in-set to the pillars so I had to come up with a way of insetting them.

First a one of the cut PCV.



to in-set it I needed a lip of some sort. So I took my PVC wrapped it in duct tape until the edge was slightly larger than the tweeter, then I wrapped that with some cardboard and taped it all together.. then I glued it.



It is currently drying with the cardboard wraped around it. I expect to stiffen it all up with a layer of resin then do the pods like any other tweeter pods on the a-pilar. here is the pod wrapped in card board, notice the lip created.
 

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Heres a tip for the lip.

Hey that rhymed. :D

Instead of using the cardboard and resin....which a waste and mis-use of materials.....since resin on cardboard give you no structural integrity....

..... use the plastic from the For Sale /For Rent/Beware Of Dog signs.

A few bucks at any Outlet type store.

Use 2 layers with staggered seams..... staple or brad nail them in and now you a have a thin lip and you didn't waste any resin which is VERY expensive these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Heres a tip for the lip.

Hey that rhymed. :D

Instead of using the cardboard and resin....which a waste and mis-use of materials.....since resin on cardboard give you no structural integrity....

..... use the plastic from the For Sale /For Rent/Beware Of Dog signs.

A few bucks at any Outlet type store.

Use 2 layers with staggered seams..... staple or brad nail them in and now you a have a thin lip and you didn't waste any resin which is VERY expensive these days.
My HOPE is that the layers of FG on and around the rings will be enough structure and the cardboard will just kinda be there once all is glassed. That idea forthe signs is awesome... whish I had read your post before getting so deep into the whole cardboard thing. I will definately try it next time though.

I will post pics when I get a bit further along. Currently I have used silicone glue to glue the rings in place and am evaluating how it looks/sounds with how they are aimed. Initial thoughts are that I need to angle it more. I can totally see how the shop got it all wrong. It looks good until you put the panels in the car then it looks totally wrong.
 

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Here is a pic of one of the rings I made for my pillar build. You can either use pvc or abs from home depot. I made the mdf rings fit snuggly inside the abs then super glued around the underside edges. VERY sturdy and worked great. The same process can be used for tweeters to recess them.





 

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Discussion Starter #20
what materials can I use to makethe initial cover of the pods once I have glued the rings in place? I see someone used speaker grill cloth, but other than that waht else can I use? IT is a holiday weekend so I cannot get to a store easily. Can I use a tshirt cut up, or is that too coarse for the a-pillar area? With subs I see a lotof poeple used many things like felt blankets, shirts, one guy even used some hideous spandex.
 
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