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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all I just did an overhaul on my audio in a 2016 chevy cruze limited and that install is complete but now the techy stuff needs tinkering with.

I'm gonna try to list everything in this system so that there is no confusion and hopefully I can narrow down my issues.
Main Concerns
1. My tweeters overpower my mids and blast my ears before I can get close to my distortion number(32) on my factory headunit. Hit about number 20 and it's about the loudest I can comfortably listen but the mids are no where near how good they can get.
2. My door chimes/turn signals are now annoyingly loud and i'm not sure if there's equipment I need to install or how to bypass this.
3. I have a whining noise now that I would like to address.

I'll start by detailing the install. I disconnected my rear door speakers and am only running 2 front door woofers and 2 tweeters. They are each ran to their own channel on a compact 4 channel amp. I have an lc2i running from my factory radio and that feeds from the main output to a minidsp which then leads to the 4 channel amp that powers my front stage and then the bass output runs to a mono channel amp that powers a single 10" subwoofer. I have 4 gauge wiring that runs to a fuse block and it's grounded to the chassis of the vehicle and everything runs off of the block.

Equipment:

2016 Chevy Cruze Limited

Front stage setup
Door Speakers: Silver Flute W17RC38-04 ohm 6-1/2" Wool Cone
Pillar Tweeters: Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter
LOC: Amazon.com: AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control : Everything Else
DSP: miniDSP 2x4
DSP Isolator: miniDC Isolator
4CH amp: Amazon.com: Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier : Electronics
Fuseblock: Amazon.com: WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Included : Automotive

Bass:
Subwoofer: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P1S4102/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P1S4-10.html
Mono Amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fos...ds=rockford+fosgate+amp&qid=1632792888&sr=8-7


I tried to include everything but I'm sure I've missed something. I'll add some more install notes now.
Each door was treated with deadener and I installed custom mdf speaker ring adapters with speaker foam tape as well as silicone baffles
to help seal the door speaker to the panel and direct the rear waves into an eggcrate foam pad. This whole setup was recommended on another
forum regarding chevy cruze audio installs. This person posted their setup piece by piece and had at least 20 other cruze owners using the components
and having solid results with them. They also posted the "tuning files" that matched the speakers I'm using and the same car interior which should get me
in the ballpark of a nice sounding system. Everything was great until I started setting the gains and here's why.

I started by setting my gains on the mids in my car. I had already come to the conclusion that my headunit sends out an undistorted signal at the number 32 so that's where I'll have my volume at. I unplugged all of the other speakers and ran a -3 db 1,000hz test tone. I heard volt matching is what you want to do to get your peak performance from your equipment and be sure you're getting the most powerful clean signal from your head unit to your amps. So my 4ch amp states it accepts 0.2V-4V and so on my LC2i I turned my main output up until it was hitting close to 4V. From there I started turning my gains up on my mids until I heard distortion. Then I played some music just to check and listen for distortion and wow my door speakers were sounding amazing! I was so happy with how powerful they hit and how much rumble I was getting from my doors. It really brought the sound to life. After that I plugged my tweeters in to match them and immediately boom! They were so powerfully loud I couldn't even break number 20 on my radio without my ears screaming. So at this point Idk what to do. I start fresh and cut the Volts in half from the LC2i. Now I'm sending 2Volts to my amp and this makes me have to turn the gain up much higher on my mids channel now and it doesn't sound nearly as nice. Even at this 2 Volst setting my tweeters are still overbearingly loud with 0 gain on their channel.

I wanna mention that in between the LC2i and the 4ch amp there is a miniDSP which is supposed to set my crossover points and set latency on each individual driver so that I have a more clean sound stage. Other than loading in this persons file that had "hours" of tuning and plugging it into my system I've done zero tweaking with how this person has the crossovers set. I'm curious if I bought a rta mic and tried to tweak the system and possibly roll the high frequencies down if it would solve the insane shrill noise they seem to have on my ears when trying to enjoy a nice booming sound.

But that then leads me to my next issue. If I do Volt match again and bring the Volts back to 4 where the mids sounded amazing previously then I will have a lot more noise in my system. There is a whining noise that increases as I rev the engine. On top of that a higher output from my LC2i means that my door chimes and turn signals will be even more insanely loud then they already are at 2volts. I've got a solid ground but I haven't done the big 3 upgrade which some sources claim may solve the whining issue. I'm tempted to take my vehicle to an audio shop and see if they could possibly tweak everything right but for whatever reason I have more faith in myself to learn it and adjust it properly then to trust the shops around here to touch my stuff lol.

Anyways I think I've covered the majority of my install and issues that need resolved so I hope someone could possibly shed some light on what could be my issue. I didn't mention any bass related stuff bc it's perfect and has no issues. I volt matched to 4 on that as well and set my gains with my oscilloscope and it packs way more power then i'll ever need so I mostly keep the bass knob turned to the lowest setting for regular listening.

Thanks in advance everyone!
 

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Get a mic and free REW
Your response should be adjusted to a target curve.


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... Even at this 2 Volst setting my tweeters are still overbearingly loud with 0 gain on their channel.
...
Have you considered turning the amp gain knob for the tweeters all way the down?
 
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TLDR all of it
Did you set tweeter gains with multimeter?
Do that maybe with subs….maybe. I don’t know never bothered.
What works is setting levels per you target response.


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first you should get rid of the noise. Obviously you have issues with ground loop. Check all your grounds, check and lower your gains, check electrical wiring - how do you power your components - are all the components grounded to same spot or are you using separate power wiring for Head unit (cars original harnes to power up HU)....and the rest of the system fromdifferent ground somewhere in trunk?
When the noise will be eliminated you will be able to set system as it should be.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have you considered turning the amp gain knob for the tweeters all way the down?
Yes that's what I meant by 0 gain on their channel. The tweeters have no gain whatsoever coming from the amp and they still are very loud.

Did you set tweeter gains with multimeter?
I set my mids with an oscilloscope and then had them perfect and went to match the tweeters and the tweeters were way too loud. So I cut the output signal in half coming from
the LC2i which brought my mids way down. Then I had to up the gain on my amp to the mids and tried level matching again with tweets. Tweeters still seem too loud.

how do you power your components
I have a fuse block in my trunk.
Only thing coming from my factory HU is the signal to the LC2i everything else there is stock.
So I ran 4 gauge power wire from my battery back to the trunk to the fuse block.
Then ran a 4 gauge ground from the fuse block as short as I could to the chassis of the vehicle.
From there each component in my system gets grounded and power from the fuse block.
Lc2i, minidsp, minidc isolator, mono amp, 4ch amp.

Get a mic and free REW
I'll probably end up getting one down the road. I feel like it's the only way I'll get my custom tune I'm looking for.
 

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Turning all those controls down (LC2i, HU) and turning up the MR amp gain and minimizing the tweeter gain is as good you can do.
Throwing a power resister in-line with the speaker, or some other bandaid might help, but would not likely be optimal.

You probably need at least an iPhone app if not REW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Turning all those controls down (LC2i, HU) and turning up the MR amp gain and minimizing the tweeter gain is as good you can do.
Ok that is what I was thinking but I figured the main output would have to be set at 0 basically on the LC2i to have the tweeters at an acceptable level
and then I'd have to crank the gain up on my mids to get them to sound good. Always heard you wanted as little gain so I never went that route yet.
Is there a entry level mic I should get and an app I should look for?
 

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Ok that is what I was thinking but I figured the main output would have to be set at 0 basically on the LC2i to have the tweeters at an acceptable level
and then I'd have to crank the gain up on my mids to get them to sound good. Always heard you wanted as little gain so I never went that route yet.
Try it. The problem is balance and you need more MR… then just turn down the HU.
(it’s free to test it out)



Is there a entry level mic I should get and an app I should look for?
  • An iPhone with a free app and playing a pink noise file would be as cheap as it gets.
and/or
  • Get the UMIK and be set.
 

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Reading this OP in full now, I see you have DSP. I would not think you can rely on a copy and paste tune from someone else’s “SQ project”. Install, and many other variables at work here.

Turn down the tweeter level in the DSP so it falls near your target curve

Also, again-get a calibrated mic and free REW


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I would suggest that you scrap that preset and start over. Set the gain of the most limiting speaker pair first, and then set gains for all other channels/speakers.
I have read somewhere on this forum that some guys do have noise issues with Mini DSP.
 

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The miniDSP 2x4 in a box, as far as I know, has a jumper that can set input sensitivity to either 0.9V or 2V RMS. It cannot accept 4V RMS. On the output side, which goes to the amp, it maxes out at 0.9V. Is it possible you're saturating the inputs of the miniDSP at 4V input?
Or are you using the 2x4 HD? The HD does have 2V or V4 selectable input and 2V output.
 

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Use the DSP to lower the tweeters to a point you’re okay with, you can do that by ear, and order a mic. You’re not going to be able to lower the volume much using gain if the amp is receiving close to the max voltage it can handle. Even if the tweeters and woofers have the same sensitivity tweeters require a lot less power to produce a certain level than the woofers do and their location is usually closer to the listening position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Turn down the tweeter level in the DSP so it falls near your target curve
I've never messed with tuning at this moment and I'm unfamiliar with how to do so.
Do I just grab a mic and then use an app on my phone?
Or do I need to have a laptop running with my dsp at the same time to adjust the tweeter settings?
Also idk how to find a "target curve".
 

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I've never messed with tuning at this moment and I'm unfamiliar with how to do so.
Do I just grab a mic and then use an app on my phone?
Or do I need to have a laptop running with my dsp at the same time to adjust the tweeter settings?
Also idk how to find a "target curve".
There is no dishonour in getting some help…
  • Which DSP?
  • What town/City?
  • Is there are shop near by that does DSP tuning?
 

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That's a good question. I didn't realize there as a jumper. I'm not using the HD. So I should probably look for .9V and make sure the jumper is set to that.
I believe the default is 0.9, but I would switch it 2V since the LC2i can output that much.
 

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I have a fuse block in my trunk.
Only thing coming from my factory HU is the signal to the LC2i everything else there is stock.
So I ran 4 gauge power wire from my battery back to the trunk to the fuse block.
Then ran a 4 gauge ground from the fuse block as short as I could to the chassis of the vehicle.
From there each component in my system gets grounded and power from the fuse block.
Lc2i, minidsp, minidc isolator, mono amp, 4ch amp.
You mentioned a fuse block in the trunk. Is there a fuse at the battery under the hood?
 

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I wont start discussion about needed fuse next to battery, but I would like to ask how you have solved power for your head unit, since that might be an issue and couse for your problem with noise/ground loop...is power and ground from distribution block or it is connected to cars original
 
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