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Discussion Starter #1
The skinny:
• Truck: 2013 1500 Express Regular Cab Short Box 2WD
• Head Unit: Stock uConnect 3.0
• Mids and Highs: Stock (possible upgrade later)
• Amp: Kicker CX1200.1 (to be purchased next week)
• Sub: 12" Eclipse Aluminum Cone (discontinued)
• Line Out (LOC): AudioControl LC2i
• Wiring: 4 gauge (brand TBD)
• Box Finish: Color Matched Carpet

The Goal:
• Clean Crisp Bass
• Stealth/Hidden as possible
• As perfect as I can afford
• Maintain as much storage space as possible
• Maintain center console function
• Maintain majority of drivers seat adjustability (comfort is 1st priority)
• Use the storage trays factory mounting points

The plan is to remove the storage tray. It will be replaced with a custom built tray that will also be carpeted to match the box/other interior.

As you may be able to tell on the attached photo, there are two false walls on the sides of the box. The false walls don't have bottoms. These are to hide the wires running from the top.

I have four main concerns:
• Mounting everything on the box. I think I'm going to devise some rubber feet/pads to use as spacers, but exactly how, I haven't figured it out yet. If anyone has suggestions, please share. Major.
• Space for the wiring on top of the box. I wont start constructing until I get all the components. That way I can do some dry fitting to be sure I have the space. Major.
• Building the tray. If the wall was flat, it would be easy, but thats clearly not the case. Keeping up with the contours and keeping it clean are going to be tough given the condition of table saw. At least the carpet will help conceal some of it. Major.
• The overall width of the box portion is 22". It should be fine, but I hope it doesn't poke out from behind my seat too much. Minor.

The dodge's that run on the sides of the front panel... well I'm not sure what those are. I added them on another version of the build (that I haven't shown). One of them was kind of needed for balance but, but now they are just there. I don't know if they will end up on the finished product or if they do, I don't know how I'll do it. Most likely something 3-D as opposed to inset.

I'm sure I'm leaving something out, but here's where I am.

The next steps:
• Order Amp
• Build 3-D Mockup of new design (overall dimensions w/o tray)
• Dry fit components
• Finalize Design
• Begin construction

Once I'm convinced the box design will suit my needs, my focus will be on a clean run of the wires. Mainly the power, but really every wire there is. I would prefer that only the few inches of wires shown on the rack (before wires go into the false walls) are the only wires that are seen unless you either move the seat up or open the hood. From what I've inspected so far, this should be a lot easier than my jetta. Fingers crossed.

Tips/Suggestions/Etc... please don't hesitate to share.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
A little update:

• kicker cx1200.1 has been ordered. Should be here by the end of the week.
• audiocontrol lc2i has arrived (yesterday).
• in the process of a slight redesign of the box. After reading a few different threads and some comments made on another forum, ive decided to add a slope to the front. Mainly to help sq but it will also allow me to narrow the box up to fit behind the seat better
• i have to finalize the cargo tray design.
• i have to get the wiring (kit?) for everything.
• i also need to build a 3-d mock up of the box to test fitment before i turn on the saws.

Thats where i stand.

...until next time, thanks for reading.
 

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Looking good man, lets see some pics of where the box is going, would help visualize. Also cardboard is a great mock up material.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hello again... Its been a little slow going the last couple days; lifes been getting in the way. However i did get amp today. As for pictures, there really isnt anything to show yet. Just to post one... Heres the key pieces.


Im going to work on the mock up tonight. I dont know if ill be able to update tonight (depends on if i have enough cardboard). If not, ill update tomorrow night.

Next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright mock up has been built and pictures taken. Im pleased with the size and design and think ill continue.

I still need to finalize the tray details and make my cut list. Then its build time. If life will stay out of the way, id like to get rolling on it this weekend.

Heres the pictures...



 

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Discussion Starter #6
More progress...

The weather was very friendly this weekend (minus the sunburn). I was able to inhale lots of saw dust and get the box portion built. It's not shown in any of the photos, but the hole for the sub has been cut and the sub mount holes drilled. I need to run the wire, seal all my seams, put the carpet on and mount the sub.

As you can see in the photos, I also got the Stinger wiring kit. I have to say this is an impressive wiring kit. I've had many over the years, but this is the best I've every owned. Although, I have owned better RCA cables before. It includes an anl fuse, nothing special, but I always wanted one of these on one of my systems, back in the days, but for some reason never got one... well, i finally got it.

Hopefully, I'll have the amp wiring finished by the end of this coming weekend. Ideally, the LOC as well so I can have some bump that following Monday, but...

...My biggest puzzle piece is the wiring for the LOC. The last stock HU that I ran an amp/sub on, I just used the amps hi level inputs. There was one other time, but a buddy of mine hooked up the LOC for me. It was his and I was borrowing it... my HU died, but we had to bump while driving around that weekend.

So, I know the inputs come from the stock speaker wires. That's were my certainty stops. I need to figure out (please don't laugh, these are probably common knowledge to most):

• Do I need to hook up both left and right inputs since I'm running a single sub? Tapping one rear speaker would be easier than having to tap both rear speakers. Trying to avoid having to pull the HU.
• Does the power wire need to constant, like the amp?
• Where do I connect the power wire? LOC behind seat and without pulling the HU
• Where do I connect the ground wire? Okay to ground at the amp ground point? Again, trying not to pull the HU

After I resolve the above, it'll be down hill.

Suggestions welcome. Otherwise... stay tuned.
 

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Looks good, I always sub'd for single cab builds.

What's with the 2 slots on either side of the box enclosure?

• Do I need to hook up both left and right inputs since I'm running a single sub? Tapping one rear speaker would be easier than having to tap both rear speakers. Trying to avoid having to pull the HU.
I can't see it being an issue, one should be fire. No harm in trying. If you ever wanted to run a fullrange amp for speakers then you would need both sides to get Left and right.

• Does the power wire need to constant, like the amp?
Yup, Same thing. Right from the battery.

• Where do I connect the power wire? LOC behind seat and without pulling the HU
Same as amp.
• Where do I connect the ground wire? Okay to ground at the amp ground point? Again, trying not to pull the HU
Same as amp.

Using a distribution block for the power & ground would probably be best in this case. It would also set you up ahead of time if you ever wanted to add a second or third amp for speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
They are false walls to hide the wiring from the amp and loc being mounted on top of the box. Once final position is determined for those items, holes will be drilled in the top to run the wires through.

Edit: Crap, i didnt even realize you gave answers to my questions. Thanks a bunch.

I had thought about a distribution block but thought i read about people tapping wires for the power too. Which i didnt really want to do. Time to find me some blocks.

Thanks for the help.
 
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