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hey guys, been a while since the last log, between getting sick, baby girl starting day care and working, its been a whirlwind. but finally slowed down for me to put up this build log.

years ago, i did a pretty big build in a hyundai genesis sedan that i called, at the time, my ultimate fake floor build, you can see the build log here:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/132098-my-ultimate-fake-floor-build-mosconi-focal-illusion-2012-genesis-sedan-600-pics.html

this particular build is sort of inspired by that one. It isn't quite as complex or crazy, but the general theme is somewhat similar, not to mention the Azera is kind of the younger sibling to the genesis.

For many of our projects, we are pretty much given carte blanche on the design and execution with very loose overall parameters, but once in a while, we do receive pretty specific instructions and we work with the customer to best satisfy those requirements. This is such a project. :) The customer, a fellow diyma member, came to us all the way from Las Vegas with some very specific ideas on how he wanted the system to look, feel and sound...and after a bit of back and forth and design idea trading, we proceeded with the construction. it was indeed he, that linked me to the genesis sedan and birthed the idea of a similar style build. :)

first the various goals:

1. achieve a nice level of sound quality tailored specifically to his listening tastes: which is a lot of speed metal at high volumes

2. maintain a relatively stealthy look in the interior with no complex curves and extruding shapes on the A pillar molds.

3. obtain a a stealthy and usable trunk design that has elements of showiness and design cues from that genesis install, namely with the amps flush mounted, and multi colored led lighting. along with the incorporation of an infinity light.

before getting started, i would like to thank Dom for letting us work on his prized new car, and mike aka lycancatt for his awesome tuning efforts...as i am not really that familiar with the esoteric properties of speed metal. :)

so, lets first take a look at the car, which is one we have not worked on before. kind of like a middle step between the sonata and the genesis, which is exactly what it is :) Joey did the work on the A pillar molding and the dsp controller mount, while i did the rest.









first up is the underhood, where i built a metal bracket to locate a two in two our midi fuse holder from stinger. its actually mounted to the stock grounding point next to the battery. i also beefed up the stock ground with an additinal 4 ga:







this is the raw finished bracket before and after painting:





and this is after it has been bolted to the car, ready for the stinger fuse holder to bolt to it:



note that a 4 gauge in addition to a zero gauge supplies power to the system.

moving onto the interior. with this car being very typical of late model hyundais with premium audio, we knew from the getgo that we would have to tap the signal AFTER the stock amp, whcih is never 100 percent ideal, so in order for the customer to be able to enjoy a great signal source, we utilized the mosconi AMAS high resolutio BT streaming device as his primary signal source. doing this requires the integration of the mosconi RC-mini dsp control, to give him master volume, plus subwoofer volume and preset changing. joey built a custom mount out of acrylic and it sits perfectly in the storage bin infront of the shifter.

here ist he picture with the bin closed:




and when you open the door, you see the curved acrylic trim, painted black, holding the mosconi dsp controller, easy to reach and blends right in:







here are some build pics from joey of the controller mount. first, a peice of acrylic was fabricated with the opening for the controller routered out:



then it was heated up and bent to create a 90 degree shape:





then it was bolted to the storage compartment and backfilled for a perfect fit:



then it was removed, sanded smooth, and the mounting mechanism for the controller built and test fitted:










then the piece was painted balck, and it was ready to go back into the car:





moving onto the front stage. the car's speakers were all audio frog. and the GB60 midbasses were installed in the factory door locations. like the genesis, this car also had no open slots in the door molex, so i did the next best thing, which was to solder new speaker wires directly onto the car side of the factory speaker wire, and then again onto the same wires as soon as it gets into the door...thus leaving as little factory wire in the chain as possible:





the outer door got plenty of blackhole tiles, while the inner door got ample amounts of GP audio composite damper:





i then fabricated a set of speaker adapters off the oem speakers, and coated them with several layers of truck bedliner to protect them against the elements:





the adapter was then bolted to the car using factory mounting points and hardware:



and the audiofrog midbass driver wired up and installed:




though hard to see since i didnt remove the factory batting, i also applied some CLD damper around the speaker grille on the factory door card:



the same process was then repeated on the passenger side:















 

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so thats it for the midbass. onto the midrange and tweeter.

as mentioned in the intro, the customer was very specific on how he wanted the a pillar molds to look. he wanted them on the same plane and as recessed as possible. so basically, they are facing 90 degree off axis and as few complex curves as possible. i was able to source a headline material that is very close to the oem cloth, and wrapped them with it. so here are the gb25 mid and the gb10 tweeter:



















onto a few build pics of the pillars. first, joey aimed and angled the mounting baffles to ensure they are on the same plane as instructed by the customer:



then, he built the shape up using filler to create the pods:



after they were sanded smooth, they looked like this:



i then took over and wrapped them in headliner cloth, and wired up and intalled the audiofrog drivers:







new speaker wires were run into the a pillar area, and then the pillars were hooked up and reinstalled:





next comes the pics showing the wiring bundles as they travel from the front side of the car to the back, ziptied top factory bundles every few inches.


























i also removed the factory subwoofer on the rear deck to allow more bass to get into the cabin, and applied more GB composite damper on the rear deck:



 

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moving onto the trunk. again the goal here is to be still stealthy and usable. so here is the look wtih everything covered up. a new full floor was built, wrapped in black carpet. with a center huge cutout, kinda similar to the genesis sedan build







pop off the center cover and here is what you see. three mosconi zero amplifiers are upfront, a zero 3 on the left powers the midbass, a zero 1 is bridged on the subs in the middle, and a zero 4 powering the mid and tweeter no the right. two audiofrog GB10 subwoofer are behind them, flanking an infinity light with the hyundai logo in between. the trim panel is wraped in graphite vinyl, and there is also a frosted plexi border in the opening of the cutout. overall, pretty simple and clean and again, similar in theme to the genesis build:









using a RF remote, we can turn on the lighting, which is RGB so it can replicate any color in the spectrum. so lets take a look at it with the lights turned on:







two shots of the infinity light all lit up:





one more of the entire trunk:



and finally, a few shots in a fully darkened garage:









 

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so onto the build pics of the trunk.

the first order of business was to tap the output wires for the front midbass, front highs and subwoofers, off the stock amp. here are the wires soldered onto thos outputs, and lead down to the back of the trunk and into the floor well area:







then i turned my attention to the trunk, first stripping the floor bare, and covering it with CLD damper:







then i taped up the area where i will be building the sub enclosure, and laid down 8 layers of mat to form the bottom side of the enclosure:





then i built the top portion of hte enclosure, which was a bit more complicated than most other enclosures. i wanted to make sure i can control the airspace to be around 1.25 raw, and i also had to make sure the box is well braced inside. in addition, i had to figure out a way to still reach the bolt that will secure the enclosure to the floor using the factory spare tire retaining spot. so i came up wtih odd looking concoction, which hopefully will make more sense as the build pics go into more detail :)





i then built the make foundation floor board with a cutout over the subenclosure, and used it to trim the top edges of the sub enclosure mold:



then basically, while everything was still in the car, i dropped in the top portion onto the floor, and mated it with the fiberglass mold with some duraglass. when that cured, i pulled it out and fully bonded the two using more duraglass and resin. after some trimming and sanding, i was left with this:





my idea was also for the subbox and the foundation floor board to interlock into each other, providing maximum strength, so i then toped the enclosure with a flange of sorts, with mounting holes for bolts drilled out at the borders:





and then i temporarily nailed on the two mounting baffles for the subs:



i also applied a layer of thin foam to the bottom of the enclosure to prevent any rattles:



and the subbox was wired up:





if you are wondering what this center cutout is, its so i can reach in and turn the bolt that will anchor the enclosure to the floor of the well, note all the threaded inserts in the lip so i can bolt in a piece that will seal up this opening:



then i finished up the foundational floor board by adding spacers upfront, and putting down a shit load of thread inserts, some will locate the subenclosure, some will locate layers above it:











and the bottom of the board also recieved a layer of foam to protect against buzzing:





then, i installed some rivet nuts onto the floor to bolt down this foundation board. there is an additional spot on the driver side for the main system ground:











then the foundation board was put in and bolted in place:



and the subenclosure droped into the slot, bonded to the main floor with a bunch of bolts and thread inserts:



and the bottom of the enclosure bolted to the oem spare tire retaining point, and the area sealed up with 3m strip caulk afterwards:





then i made the little blanking plate that will seal up the bolt access opening, and secured it to the top of the enclosure, forming a seal but still removable for access to that bolt if need be down the road:







the amps were then installed, while the top baffle for the subs were painted black and secured in place:



and then i made these two side pieces with supports, that will bolt to either side of the main floor:





next up was building the infinity light, which in this consists of 5 6 total pieces, a two way mirror on top, a border painted black as spacer, two pieces of thin acrylic, one clear one frosted with a slightly smaller opening meant for edgelighting, another black spacer, and then a one way mirror at the bottom:



the hyundai logo vinyl is applied from the underside of the middle clear acylic piece, a nd then all the pieces were stacked together, total height is only juts over 1""



tesa two way clear mounting tape was laid down, and a strip of RGB led light was glued in. followed by some black ducttape to prevent light from leaking out the backside of the strip:







these are the four threadedinserts for the infinity light:



and here is the infinity light bolted in place and wired up:

 

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now is a good time to look at all the wiring under neath the floor:



























next up was the main cosmetic trim panel, here it is before and after vinyl:









and then this piece was bolted to the car and the infinity light tested:



then i made the plexi ring for the main floor lighting. here it is frosted, with mounting holes drilled into it and also locating holes for dowels to properly align the main top floor:



followed by tesa double sided tape, led strip, and duct tape:







this ring was then bolted to the top of the cosmetic trim panel, and test lit:





here is the main top floor and the sides, before and after carpeting:













and finally, comes the grille. which is a two piece design since it has to accomodate the thickness of the edgelit plexi layer:



here the top piece before and after mesh is attached:





and here is the finished product, which is the two pieces wrapped in carpet individually, and then maded together, with breathable carpet over the amps and subs:





so thats it...the car is now safely back with its owner. Was not a simple build but i think it came out pretty good. :)

as for how it sounds, after mike worked his magic, i think it was really good for the genre of music it is meant to play. powerful is probably the best word i can use to descibe it, the amps never run out of power to play those super fast drum beats and guitars...on his way home, the customer had mike do some more tuning down in socal and i hear its even better now. :) it isnt for the type of sq music that i am more acustomed to, but when i was listening to things like the mighty mighty bosstone's earlier albums, it was fanstic.

we had to play with a few tings to get hte center image right, due to perhaps the extreme off axis of the driver side tweeter, but in the end, overall imaging and staging was decent, and the two gb10s really surprised me, with their ability to fill the cabin with bass despite it being such a big big car.

finally, as with every new premium system build, i will post the signal analysis of the oem infinity system:

here is the stock dash speaker signal at various volumes:



here is the same analysis of the front door midbass:



and of the sub channel:



here is the front midbass and dash summed before correction:



and here is the signal after applying mosconi's manual input eq:



so thats it, with the holiday break coming up. my work load may be lighter so hopefully i will get a chance to put up some more logs. :)

cheers,

Bing
 

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what a fun process it was to work on this tune! I've said it before and i'll probably say it again, I really appreciate getting into a car, and pretty much all the system problems and install related issues are already taken care of. bings attention to detail is way up there..like jewelry crafter high, and its a joy to not rewire/refab/rebuy things when helping to get the most out of a soundsystem.

I think I scared bing a few times tuning this car lol, I can only imagine he was being driven slowly crazy by volume and the crisp dynamic sound double bass drum requires.
 

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Looks great! I need to get a false floor amp rack done myself. Just curious, how much does your average false floor amp rack without sub enclosure cost?
 

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pm him, pricing is likely not goint to be discussed publicly
 

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Again one precise SIS install. Guys, probably you forgot your home page, missing some installs there ;)
By the way, what kind of plexi glass you use for lightening amps and subs? As i saw it's not clear.
 

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Again one precise SIS install. Guys, probably you forgot your home page, missing some installs there ;)
By the way, what kind of plexi glass you use for lightening amps and subs? As i saw it's not clear.
You can frost it a number of ways, like blasting it, or even sanding it. I'm not sure what Bing does to do it, but I know just about any way will work.
 

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The angle on the controller plate was more like 110degrees. I angled it more to allow the top surface of the plate to be smaller. This gave more room to plug things into the USB/AUX/Lighter ports..
 

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One major detail! You done wrong when you double ground cable! Because in the original battery terminal it's a current measure unit that measures the amount flow current through battery. This is for start stop, intelligent charging etc.
And when it's bypassed the calculations are wrong! And that can cause problems!
 

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One major detail! You done wrong when you double ground cable! Because in the original battery terminal it's a current measure unit that measures the amount flow current through battery. This is for start stop, intelligent charging etc.
And when it's bypassed the calculations are wrong! And that can cause problems!
The 12 genesis has the same feature, I researched that when I did that car and added a beefier ground. This does not cause any issues. :) as proven with that car now 4 years old and almost 70k miles

Changing the alternator to battery cable tho...may not be the best idea on these.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
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