[LinkyPwns]

Hi,
I currently have what I think is a pretty decent system in my Taurus SHO now. It is a 2 way setup with JL C5 5x7 and the C5 0.75” tweeter. When I picked my speakers I didn’t appreciate the frequency response would be limited for the tweeter and the mid bass would have to play higher (JL recommends crossovers set to 5KHz).

I’m now wondering if it would make sense to try throwing a mid range into the mix to make it a 3-way. My thoughts are it would bring the sound stage up and maybe make the sound stage wider? Would a 2”, 3” or 4” mid range be worth the investment? I know JL makes a C5 4” but it is really big to install and I’m thinking that’s a no. I could probably fit it in the center channel pocket in my Taurus (currently center CH is just disconnected). If I did the center though, my DSP doesn’t support upmixing stereo to center so I thinking that’s a no too. Maybe I’m chasing the CA dragon?

I’ve never made fiberglass enclosures so I would probably get one of those aluminum pods of the German EBay seller for whatever mids I would go with.

Here is a list of my other equipment in my car:
PAC AP4-FD21 (OEM with toslink into Rockford fosgate 3sixty.3 DSP
JL C5 570 component set (active)
JL HD 600/4 to power C5’s
JL 12W6V3 in 1.3 ft3 vented box. Tuned to 32 Hz
Boston Acoustics GT24 to power sub (900w AB amp)

I tuned my DSP on my own and input from others. I believe my time alignment is good and my EQ has a good house curve.

 

[lithium]

I think you'll see a big improvement with a midrange or full range. Not sure what JL has in the 2-3 inch range but there are plenty of other popular drivers on the forum that folks have tried out.

 

[LinkyPwns]

I think you'll see a big improvement with a midrange or full range. Not sure what JL has in the 2-3 inch range but there are plenty of other popular drivers on the forum that folks have tried out.

Thanks for the reply. I’m open to other brands to. To stick with JL would be the C5 4” (too big) or go to the C7 3” (too expensive). I’m trying to keep my costs under 500 if possible. Skizer has Blam 3” signature for sale ($400)- that looks tempting.


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[lithium]

I've mostly messed around with cheap raw drivers. Planning to install some scan 10F in the spring, they're pretty highly regarded. I'm sure the blam 3s are good if Nick says so. You could also look at CDT unity 8s if you need something a bit smaller.

 

[MythosDreamLab]

Recently switched from 2-way to 3-way...YEAH, it's way better...!

 

[bigdub69]

Thanks for the reply. I’m open to other brands to. To stick with JL would be the C5 4” (too big) or go to the C7 3” (too expensive). I’m trying to keep my costs under 500 if possible. Skizer has Blam 3” signature for sale ($400)- that looks tempting.


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Maybe Audiofrog gb25s since they’re 2.5” so not too big and also they are 500 on crutchfield which is pushing it but you could find a used pair on here pretty easily.

 

[LinkyPwns]

3” diameter circle for reference

I think I’m going to have to learn how to do fiberglass. Are the sail panels a good place for midrange? I like the idea of the GB25 to.

 

[MythosDreamLab]

it looks like the Mid's would fit better in the A-Pillars (where the Tweeters currently are) and then put the Tweeters in the Sails, as it does not look there is much depth there...

 

[LinkyPwns]

it looks like the Mid's would fit better in the A-Pillars (where the Tweeters currently are) and then put the Tweeters in the Sails, as it does not look there is much depth there...

I think I will run into depth issues and maybe not have enough surface area without building something up by using the pillars. Either way with the sail panel I will have to build that up somehow to with fiberglass. One other thought is to see if I can fit one of those aluminum pods (German ebay guy) up by the corner of the windshield and be mounted on axis.

One other thought is to go with a smaller speaker yet. Like a 2" driver. It just sounds silly to have a 2" and 0.75" tweeter... sounds not worth it at that point.

This got more complex than I thought lol.

 

[lithium]

I think you could make a 3 inch work there as long as the flange isn't too big on the driver

 

[LinkyPwns]

Posting this for my future reference.

1" tweeters in sail panels
EX. 1 - 2013 Ford Taurus SHO Audio | musicarnw.com.
EX. 2 - 2013 Ford Taurus SHO. Simple Yet Effective. HAT, Seas, Helix, Alpine

 

[LinkyPwns]

Update: I made cutouts of the GB25 and referenced dimensions from Crutchfield installation details. I don’t think this is going to work unless I redo my pillars for the gb25 and C5 tweet.

I had a thought about locating it here but it’s too big.

I wanted to ask If I’m overlooking any other options.

thanks

 

[lithium]

Maybe Unity 8 instead

 

[LinkyPwns]

Maybe Unity 8 instead

I hadn’t heard of unity 8 but I see nothing but positive feedback. I got dimensions from them and printed it out. It looks like it could go in either location. What would be the better choice? I think overall the sail panels would be better with some fiberglass.

 

[lithium]

I would vote sails

 

[LinkyPwns]

Update: This past weekend I found a deal on some JL C7 midrange and tweeters. I kind of jumped into it but I thought I'd try to make it all work. I figured keeping the JL C5 5x7 for midbass would be fine and would blend fine into the C7's.

Here are some pictures of the trim rings next to the sail panel and A pillar. I'm thinking my best bet will be to mount in the sail panel. This way I won't have to fiberglass my A pillars - just my sails. I will swap out the 0.75" C5 tweeter for the 1.00" C7 tweeter in the A pillar and keep it off axis.

What is everyone's thoughts on the mid range being on axis but the tweeters off axis? The tweeters would be crossed approximately at 4KHz so I wouldn't have to worry too about beaming. Is the windshield still a concern?

When I get some time I will try to get some rags/towels behind the speakers and try out some different placements. Any tips for holding speakers in place temporarily?

 

[LinkyPwns]

I did some more research on speaker placement. The census that I could find was mounting one set on axis and one set off axis was not good. I got some tests going with the towels. Here are some pictures:

Just having these here I was surprised how much more sound information can be on the dash. I am looking forward to getting this complete.

I was doing some more research and came across the eBay seller valicar stuttgart. There wasnt anything bad to be said about his pods on the forum here. I’m going to get pods with the adjustable ball joint. I believe this will be lots easier than fiberglass. I like how I can adjust my placement too. I plan to mount everything similar to my pictures above.

 

[lithium]

quick google

valicar pods site:diymobileaudio.com - Google Search

 

[MythosDreamLab]

My mids are mounted on-axis and the tweeters (next to them) are off-axis and they sound amazing!

 

[LinkyPwns]

quick google

valicar pods site:diymobileaudio.com - Google Search

Geeze I missed that one. Thanks Lithium. I’m not totally deterred but I am going to double check measurements with him.


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