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Discussion Starter #1
I'm upgrading the stereo I have in my car right now and have some questions.

What's in the car right now.
Alpine iva-w200
Alpine type s 6.5 coaxial front doors
Infinity tweeters up front too. Don't know the model
Alpine type s 5.25 coaxial rear doors
Alpine type s 12 sub with Alpine MRP-M450 (400 watts at 2 ohms)
Alpine ktp-445 power pack.(small 4 channel 45x4)

What I have but not installed
JL 300/4 v1
JL 300/2 v1

Thinking about running 150 to speakers up front and 75 to tweeters up front and then just 75 to coaxials in the rear. Is this a good idea or bad? Will the type s last very long might be a couple moths before I get new components? Should I just use the 300/4 to power all my speakers and use the 300/2 for the sub?

So I want a pair of decent components up front probably around $150.
I was thinking about getting these in the future. Image Dynamics CTX 6.5cs
Any good?
Will 150rms be to much for the woofer? or 75 to much for those tweeters? Any other components I should look at?

Maybe these in the rear doors? Image Dynamics CTX-5
Any good?

Which amp kit should I go with?
2 gauge enough? Might ditch the alpine type s in the future and get a 12w6 and jl 500/1(not sure yet) So would 2 gauge be enough for 3 slash amps?
JL Audio XB-PCS2-2
and since I will be running 3 amps this distribution block? Xscorpion-AGU3234P


I was going to get this 14 gauge speaker wire "14 AWG High-Strand OFC Royal Cable Speaker Wire 50 ft. Roll"


Thanks for any input

*It wont let me put links in yet sorry*
 

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Discussion Starter #2
maybe I shouldn't bi-amp with different watts

Also, there are studies that indicate that bi-amping should really have equal wattage on the mids and the tweets - especially with amps like the JL that have no headroom. Headroom is the temporary ability to outperform your constant power output, and it is lacking in fully regulated amps.

SOI guess what I'm saying is that I would bi-amp, but with different gear. I don't think the JL Slash amps are the best sounding ever, they are a bit harsh and grainy in the highs compared to a Zapco or a Genesis or a DLS, but if you were sticking with them, a 300/4 and a 500/1 would be the ticket - or even a 250/1 to be at the same power.
 

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Looks like the ID ctx 65cs will take the 150 watts fine
if you are looking for a more high end sounding system, the CTX are the entry level. the CXS or XS series might be more to your liking.

bi-amping a coax or comp set has alot to do with the ability of the passive to do so. if you are gonna go fully active, then it dont matter. go with a 4 channel and use the onboard x-overs or use an outboard DSP.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the reply
So I shouldn't bi-amp with the jl 300/2 for the woofers and 2 channels from a jl 300/4 for the tweeters?
 

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I am not saying you shouldnt. if you are gonna use the passives that come with a comp set, make sure they support this. the ID comps, the "woofer" output is just there for convience. it doesnt really have a x-over on it. some other brands do.

if you are gonna go fully active, then skys the limit.

what are you gonna do with the other two channels on the 300/4? maybe bridge the 300/4 for the door woofs and use the 300/2 for the tweeters. that is alot of tweeter power, but just turn it down, it will be clean :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was going to use the other 2 channels for the rear doors. Yeah 150 seems like allot for a tweeter to me but I don't know what I'm doing.

I also wasn't going to use the ID passive crossover and just use the jl amps crossovers.
 

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if you are gonna use the other channel for rear doors, then there is no reason that wont work.(just make sure the crossover in the amplifier will go high enough to cross over the tweeter) I assume you are gonna keep the MRP for sub duty?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
^Thanks for the info
Yeah goona keep that for the sub. I dont want to spend any more money right now but in the future I want to get a jl 500/1 and 12w6v2
 
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