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Crazy install.... Very clean
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Small update again, painted the bottom layer of the MDF. Wrapped cloth over the top layer.

A small part of the connections will be visible on purpose. Will have UV-LEDs below which will light up the UV-sensitive 'Tex-flex', the shrink tube is also UV sensitive.

Not done with the wiring yet, so don't mind the loose cables ;)








And starting tomorrow I'll skip the phone camera. The images look like crap =/
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Done with the wiring in the trunk now. I'll clean the rest up tomorrow.

I had to set gains on the PDX amps before mounting the bottom layer of the MDF, hard to reach the gain control afterwards =/

I did it wby using a -8dB sine tone at maximum output from the P99 fed through the Helix P-DSP at maximum output. Observed the clipping point with a digital o-scope. Had a 200W/4ohm - 200W/8ohm resistor in place to get correct readings. Noticed that the PDX amps are underspecced. The maximum output before clipping was 27,2V.

27,2² / 4 ~ 185W. They specced for 150W.

Here's some pictures.







The small purple wire at the right is a additional ground cable from the headunits ground point to the trunk, have 3-4 of these between several ground points to avoid ground issues.



 

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Discussion Starter #27
Almost finished in the trunk now. Installed cooling fans and UV-LEDs, the phone camera picks up incredibly much UV light so the pictures look bright purple ( forgot to bring the damn SLR camera again... I will take proper pictures later ;) ).

Installed protection for the subwoofer. I actually bought the 'metal rods' from IKEA (lol). Perfect in my install, matches the amps color.

*In addition to the 120mm fan there's 2x40mm fans on in the right side and one on the left side. There's actually 2-3" of space below the bottom layer of MDF (to the floor) and the fans creates a pretty good air flow, the PDX amps shouldn't overheat during the summer now.

Next up is the rear doors, need to make MDF rings for the Seas L18 mids. One door needs additional dampening.













 

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The foundation is ready, time to move to the front! :D
Can't wait to see where all those channels end up and how!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The foundation is ready, time to move to the front! :D
Can't wait to see where all those channels end up and how!
Yeah... I'm finishing stuff backwards this time :p

I have doors and A-pillars left to fix. Front doors will be lots of work since I need to rebuild them. I wanted the amps connected so I can experiment with tweeter location and aiming before I install them.

I'm actually I have enough space below the dash to build two 4th order BP boxes to cancel out some modes in the 120-160Hz area. Need a new amp and another DSP in that case. I do have an Audison bit10 on the shelf... IF I do that I'll have 13channels to deal with ;)

One of these would fit under the seat...

NANO-402 - CarPower Car HiFi amplifier 250W - Europe Audio
 

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Not a bad price for a decent amp. Those are supposedly pretty damn good small amps.

And aparently around half the price that one would cost in Finland.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Realized that I've failed in the planning stage a bit. I was originally thinking to use the P99's DSP for my tweeters, but I can't use the EQ without affecting the fullrange signal to the Helix DSP. Not sure why I didn't think of that before... Anyway, I came up with a solution to this issue, I'll simply use two external DSPs. I have an Audison Bit10 available and I'll install it under the dash somewhere, the Bit10 has 5 channels so I get another channel which I'll be using for a special purpose. So I will therefore use 12 channels in total. I have also installed another amp, a bridged modded 2ch amp which I'll be using for my... special purpose :p

Funny thing is that I had issues with this Bit10 before, "white noise" sounding background noise. The issue disappeared after a firmware update, obviously software related.
 

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Not enough channels...

Subs, Rear ambience, midrange, front midbass (8ch)
Are they real, derived, ambiance channels or just rear midbasses?

You could also run the mids/tweeters off of the same channels since the TA isn't terribly effective on them anyway so you could feed those channels into the mids and tweeters or run them passively. I think either would be better options than running a second processor to add tweeters.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Are they real, derived, ambiance channels or just rear midbasses?

You could also run the mids/tweeters off of the same channels since the TA isn't terribly effective on them anyway so you could feed those channels into the mids and tweeters or run them passively. I think either would be better options than running a second processor to add tweeters.
Unfortunately there's more than just the tweeters. Rear ambiance and midbass are different drivers, will use them within a narrow bandpass. I can't use EQ on the P99 cause it will affect the fullrange signal to the Helix DSP (idk if this is much of an issue really, if I use EQ below the passband the the mids for example). Channel 7/8 on the P99 have locked highpass as well. I'd like to have separate EQ on each driver so I'd like to avoid passives atm. Is there any drawbacks I'm unaware of using dual DSPs? (except annoying to tune, this build will most likely be... time-consuming to tune lol).

1/2 Sub
3/4 Midbass FR
5/6 Midrange
7/8 Tweeters
9/10 Rear ambience (Delayed through the the P99 -> P-DSP (to reach 20ms delay)
11/12 Rear midbass drivers
 

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Unfortunately there's more than just the tweeters. Rear ambiance and midbass are different drivers, will use them within a narrow bandpass. I can't use EQ on the P99 cause it will affect the fullrange signal to the Helix DSP (idk if this is much of an issue really, if I use EQ below the passband the the mids for example). Channel 7/8 on the P99 have locked highpass as well. I'd like to have separate EQ on each driver so I'd like to avoid passives atm. Is there any drawbacks I'm unaware of using dual DSPs? (except annoying to tune, this build will most likely be... time-consuming to tune lol).

1/2 Sub
3/4 Midbass FR
5/6 Midrange
7/8 Tweeters
9/10 Rear ambience (Delayed through the the P99 -> P-DSP (to reach 20ms delay)
11/12 Rear midbass drivers
Different DSPs will have different output delay. For eg. the MS-8 has an 8ms delay between the sound entering the unit and exiting...

Kelvin
 

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ah.. ikea.. source for speaker-salad-wooden-bowls and subwoofer-protector-door-handles.. (have used those metallic doorhandles for looong time in different subwoofers.) and im wondering if they have a cheap plastic-cuttingboard-speaker-baffle aswell.

i hate ikea. but i like to go there to collect ideas and re-use some of the items in something totally different.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Okey, I'm a little busy with... other things atm so the car build is currently on hold for a week more or so. I'm in the middle of getting my motorcycle (an old Kawasaki) ready for spring. It needed a repaint, found out it was more work than I initially thought (ain't it always?).

Mess...




Well anyway, been planning and thinking a lot about the front stage and how and where I would mount the tweeters. Experimented some and found that vertically mounting was the best, above the midranges in the sails. They will almost the "coaxed" with the tweet overlapping the midrange driver slightly. I'll take some pictures on this when I'm in the garage next time.

I also ordered some additional dampening, some liquid dampener from Brax and some 7/15mm OC foam/liner from SilentCoat. Ordered two filter capacitors from Helix now as well (haven't received them yet), they will replace my DIY capacitor box below the alternator. Really want the power system to be as noise free as possible.

In response to the different delay times though different DSPs I went ahead and measured it, there actually was a difference but I can account for that with a "global" time delay setting on the bit10. I need to use EQ without affecting the source signal output, otherwise I'd use the P99.


Here's the liquid dampener.





MDF rings for the 8"s (made these a while back), made new aluminum (5mm) rings for mounting. I'll probably use those instead but idk yet.





MDF rings for rear doors, probably need to make two more (over 50mm distance between the door panel the the mounting hole).





Some random crap I ordered...



My small 'modded' 100w PWM amp. For the BP box.



Rear doorpanel...





I'll probably wrap some dark gray or perhaps red speaker cloth over those instead...



Rear doors...



The glovebox...



"On top" of the glovebox there's lots of space. Planning to put the 2nd DSP there and place an accessible USB socket somewhere.



The engine room... At least the alternator is pretty accessible. I need to install a new power cable, the stock one is like 6gauge and it's also damn short, it barely reaches the positive pole on the battery. VAG got a bigger alternator with about 30A more output that should fit. Been thinking of acquiring one of those actually.



The interior, pretty much a big mess atm. My old kick panel with the Fountek driver is laying on the floor to the right :p



I'll put the 'new' amp there somehow. Haven't figured out exactly how yet.





I'll install the battery charger there as well.



All for now ;)
 
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