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Hi, hoping someone here can help a novice out. I recently sold my old Accord so I took the head unit, amp and sub out to move into my current car, a 2013 Honda CR-V EX-L. I didn't want to mess with the stock appearance, or risk losing the functionality of the stock head unit (steering wheel controls, bluetooth, rear DVD unit, etc) so I decided not install the Pioneer head unit and only the amp and sub. I ran the power, remote, RCAs and ground and got all that hooked up. To get the line out, I bought a harness that had the remote and a cheap 2 channel LOC from eBay. Picture of the LOC attached.
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Problem I'm having is that the amp turns on and the sub moves a bit, but there is pretty much zero sound coming from it. Do you think it is the LOC? On a previous system 20 years ago, I had a single channel and wondered if that were the problem (I really don't know the difference between a single and two channel LOC). I've checked the fuses, ran a different RCA cable and turned up the gain on the LOC and the amp with little difference. If it makes any difference, my amp is a Pioneer Premier GM-7150 and the sub is a Boston G5 12" in a sealed box.

Thank you for any help!!
 

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I’m not an expert on your car, but you should research the Honda forums for your specific car and it’s audio system. It’s possible you are getting signal from a source that EQs out all of the bass and you either need something more advanced to restore it or find a signal before the EQ is applied. In my Accord as example, I have full range low-level signal between the deck and factory amp powering everything. There’s other ways to do it, but this avoids any signal processing by the OEM system.
 

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I’m not an expert on your car, but you should research the Honda forums for your specific car and it’s audio system. It’s possible you are getting signal from a source that EQs out all of the bass and you either need something more advanced to restore it or find a signal before the EQ is applied. In my Accord as example, I have full range low-level signal between the deck and factory amp powering everything. There’s other ways to do it, but this avoids any signal processing by the OEM system.
This seems to be the most likely situation. The sub isn't going to play frequencies that were already filtered out. OP, you'll need to find a fullrange signal, or use something like the JL Fix to restore the signal. I don't know anything specific about your car, but you may be able to program the head unit to send a clean, fullrange signal to your amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks, I've been hunting all over the internet including Honda CR-V specific forums but haven't gotten anywhere yet. The Amplifier Adapter Interface that I bought on eBay had the LOC already wired in, and that connects directly to the head unit and the original harness connector so I thought it should get good signal there. I don't see any way to adjust any EQ on this stock head unit. I'm at a loss...

Is it possible this is a bad LOC? It is an admittedly cheap one that they slapped on this harness.
 

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Thanks, I've been hunting all over the internet including Honda CR-V specific forums but haven't gotten anywhere yet. The Amplifier Adapter Interface that I bought on eBay had the LOC already wired in, and that connects directly to the head unit and the original harness connector so I thought it should get good signal there. I don't see any way to adjust any EQ on this stock head unit. I'm at a loss...

Is it possible this is a bad LOC? It is an admittedly cheap one that they slapped on this harness.
It’s possible. Your amp appears to have a hi-level input. Try running straight into it and see if it gives you a different result.
A quick google shows you may have a premium amp and factory subwoofer.
And in that case I’ll bet your setup is similar to mine with a 3V low level full range going into the factory amp that can be used with some RCA connector ends directly into the amp. If anything you’ll probably need the LOC on the subwoofer signal, but that still may be EQ’d.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It’s possible. Your amp appears to have a hi-level input. Try running straight into it and see if it gives you a different result.
A quick google shows you may have a premium amp and factory subwoofer.
Yeah, this car has the factory "premium" sound system with amp and subwoofer (all 3.5" of it haha). So when you say run a hi-level input, that means tapping into the speaker lines and using the speaker input and not the RCAs from the LOC? Sorry, I'm a bit of a novice again since the last time I installed anything like this was in 2002!
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Yeah, this car has the factory "premium" sound system with amp and subwoofer (all 3.5" of it haha). So when you say run a hi-level input, that means tapping into the speaker lines and using the speaker input and not the RCAs from the LOC? Sorry, I'm a bit of a novice again since the last time I installed anything like this was in 2002!
View attachment 278691
Yes. The Hi-Level input effectively becomes your LOC.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I installed the hi-level lines and the sub is definitely bumping now, although not at the same level I was used to in my old car, but that may be because I'm not using my Pioneer head unit with it anymore. It pops once when I turn it on, but no other time so I guess that's alright. I might get better sound by repositioning the box, I have it pointed to the rear now but it seems like a lot of SUV owners put it on the side facing to the driver's side.

Thanks to you all for your help!
 
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