DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
681 - 700 of 787 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,628 Posts
thanks nick ,

i changed the crossover to 1220 it’s working much better now

and a few days of break in now, there working great!
I appreciate your help man. :)

And now that I have the tweeter figured out it’s even better
The car sounds better then ever.... I’m super happy now.....
I still have zero idea why you have such.... interesting... crossovers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,628 Posts
I wouldn't call that flat. Lol. The peak centered at 140 and the dip centered 850....there is like 6 or 7dbs worth of difference there. If that is what you consider a flat response.....
That "peak" at 140 is hardly one and most likely not even the speaker, but the room/measurement itself considering the low frequency in relation to speaker size. And yes, its not "flat", but its definitely very usable without any problems as a two way mid-woofer. its +/-3db range seems to be about 50hz to 6khz... the response of the driver is most definitely not his problem regardless of what silly little thing you want to pick out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,595 Posts
That "peak" at 140 is hardly one and most likely not even the speaker, but the room/measurement itself considering the low frequency in relation to speaker size. And yes, its not "flat", but its definitely very usable without any problems as a two way mid-woofer. its +/-3db range seems to be about 50hz to 6khz... the response of the driver is most definitely not his problem regardless of what silly little thing you want to pick out.
Yo...what? So focal posted botched measurements?
And the graph is no where near plus or minus 3 dB from 100 to 800 like dude said.
So his ears and install are to blame for his problems and the graph focal posted is highly influenced by the room.
Ok cool. Good to know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,628 Posts
Yo...what? So focal posted botched measurements?
And the graph is no where near plus or minus 3 dB from 100 to 800 like dude said.
So his ears and install are to blame for his problems and the graph focal posted is highly influenced by the room.
Ok cool. Good to know.
I'm not sure how much you know about how speakers work, but in Focals graph, we see blips in response all the way down to 40hz. These is just not possible on a 6" driver. Its due to the room. The one at 140hz may be possible, but I doubt it. Same reason a lot of Erins measurements had dips at 80hz on every speaker he measured for a period of time. Its the room the measurement is done in. Again, 80hz peak/dips are just not possible on these drivers.. No need to try to cherry pick and twist what I say just because you are sensitive about being corrected. This is what, the third time you have done this now? maybe its time to take a break from the internet and take a few deep breaths.




 
  • Like
Reactions: rton20s and oabeieo

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
I still have zero idea why you have such.... interesting... crossovers.
so maybe we’re more alike then we think,
I like loud, I just can’t stand ball out loud that has distortion or any sort of artifacts.

ive gotten daily handy at making zero phase shift crossovers, and on this build (since I stopped using horns) I wanted to be able to get the same loud levels but not sacrificing any staging or imaging or response accuracy.... and (the main reason) not blowing drivers or even getting them anywhere near power compression or heat issues...

so I decided to do a 5way, I had the room to do 3ways in the pillars , that with kicks and doors I can use the 6 as a midrange that can seriously get with the game as far as power handling goes... taking the load off the 3.5 and letting it do the work it’s best at.

I angled the 6s in 18deg and the 3.5s are 40deg , and the tweeter is on axis for the driver and 40deg for the passenger (both firing forward all angles calculated from driver seat)

studying the forward and side lobes of most drivers and learning what crossovers and frequencies those lobes give the most energy, I built my pillars to match (as much as possible) to have equal energy across the 3 ways for left and right. (As sets of 3)

so the 6 gives exceptional side lobe that is uniform with the forward lobe and doesn’t really separate much till past 1400-1800hz (depending on the driver)
So I can get the most energy and the least crossover interference crossed between 1150-1600 between the 3.5 and the 6

so the net result gives a LOT of acoustic energy maximizing the drivers dispersion
Based on what will fit and look good on my build...

this isn’t calculated exact... (I’m not that smart) I figured it out using a laser angle finder , and looking at hundreds of polars of 6s and a half dozen 3s or 4s (not that many to see)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,595 Posts
I'm not sure how much you know about how speakers work, but in Focals graph, we see blips in response all the way down to 40hz. These is just not possible on a 6" driver. Its due to the room. The one at 140hz may be possible, but I doubt it. Same reason a lot of Erins measurements had dips at 80hz on every speaker he measured for a period of time. Its the room the measurement is done in. Again, 80hz peak/dips are just not possible on these drivers.. No need to try to cherry pick and twist what I say just because you are sensitive about being corrected. This is what, the third time you have done this now? maybe its time to take a break from the internet and take a few deep breaths.




I don't care how many things you post. The graph says it all.
It would be happy crossed under 800. Saying a 6inch driver plays flat to 6k is worse than saying it has authority at 40 hertz. No. No it doesn't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
I built my 1st round of crossovers using focals data sheet, it shows a slight downward slope to about 800 then a small dip , then a peak at 1.2k and then mostly flat to to 2.5k before on and off axis become very different

i was saying this 6 wants to be a midbass , but not it’s only a midbass.... because it wants to be one , it’s response is fantastic in the 300hz range

I had to actually take some of it out and it’s working fantastic now... super smooth nice even dispersion all the way up to my 1200ish hz crossover....

So , I agree with skizr , he’s absolutely right and has been exactly right on everything he’s said. And go dam it’s a nice sounding in the 800s .... no peaky echoing sounding 800s at all, just pure smooth sound.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
I don't care how many things you post. The graph says it all.
It would be happy crossed under 800. Saying a 6inch driver plays flat to 6k is worse than saying it has authority at 40 hertz. No. No it doesn't.
well on axis with a watt going in it does play flat at 3 feet away.... it’s a means to know what the driver is doing

all cone drivers have a peak between 3khz-6khz and a nasty breakup mode
They show you the impedance and response all the way up so you can design your system around it

would you want to play it to 6k , probably not, could you, yes! Would it sound fantastic? Probably not, but it will in fact play sound that is equal in energy all the way through its response

I think your not understanding what he’s saying....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,628 Posts
I understand what he's saying. I also understand you have a 5 way front stage or something.
Utopia and dayton audio? The fact that the two of you agree is enough for me.
I never once said I agree. I actually hinted that his setup makes no sense to me. Multiple times I did that actually. But here you are, still being weird as fvck lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: oabeieo and vactor

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
If these are in your underseat BMW locations, you better be modifying to let the enclosure vent out of the car. Otherwise, you will be disappointed. These want IB. Not the insanely small enclosure that the BMW underseats have.
Yeah I am following what Peter did in that Bmw he built - gonna be cutting some holes and making a more custom enclosure to house the driver better as the oem enclosure is a little tight and and won’t fit the grill as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
Wait, I thought you got rid of the utopias and went with brax. What's up with that?
I have 2 cars the one has the Brax speakers in the other will have the Utopias in…

I did sell the Utopias a while back so the guy who also bought the mids and tweeters with me back then sold his to me for cheap so I decided to get them - I just added the 8WMs to what he had…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,628 Posts
Yeah I am following what Peter did in that Bmw he built - gonna be cutting some holes and making a more custom enclosure to house the driver better as the oem enclosure is a little tight and and won’t fit the grill as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We just did it in an M3. We tested with it as normal before. needed to be modified.
 
  • Like
Reactions: oabeieo

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
I understand what he's saying. I also understand you have a 5 way front stage or something.
Utopia and dayton audio? The fact that the two of you agree is enough for me.
it’s a 4 way plus sub (5way)

the fronts are the system.....the door woofers and subs play the same thing except from 1hz-45hz , it could still be a 4way , but technically it’s not. Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
We just did it in an M3. We tested with it as normal before. needed to be modified.
how are you doing yours?
Do you drilling straight down? And how big of a vent to outside do you do?

would a 4” hole saw be good?
With some mesh and thin foam to keep **** out.....(just a guess)

I’ve only done one, but I removed the enclosure and made an IB board Bit didn’t vent to outside .....it was better , I need to do that tho on these .... I do a lot of BMWs and not very many ppl want to pay for kicks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
how are you doing yours?
Do you drilling straight down? And how big of a vent to outside do you do?

would a 4” hole saw be good?
With some mesh and thin foam to keep **** out.....(just a guess)

I’ve only done one, but I removed the enclosure and made an IB board Bit didn’t vent to outside .....it was better , I need to do that tho on these .... I do a lot of BMWs and not very many ppl want to pay for kicks
I presume if you use a mesh your already starting a AP enclosure? The undertray should be sufficient to keep stuff out?

Maybe a geo fabric membrane would be sufficient without impacting the drivers movement…

They say 40% of the diameter of the driver is fine…

I think Nick can confirm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
I presume if you use a mesh your already starting a AP enclosure? The undertray should be sufficient to keep stuff out?

Maybe a geo fabric membrane would be sufficient without impacting the drivers movement…

They say 40% of the diameter of the driver is fine…

I think Nick can confirm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yeah! That what I need to know mostly , the materials! Thank you

but your right , although if it acted like AP only up into the 100s (hz) that would be fine I think ? ??? Anything will act of the impedance I’m guessing, but if it’s out of band or where it’s not as crucial..... idk tho
Never done one
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
So this tweeter moving a lot is happening in my car.... tweet completely unplugged.
i can try and share a video ..... I’m worried

orca tech support (of course) won’t call me back. Maybe they don’t like me lol

i know the be is thin, I mean it must be able to handle the vibration (2500hz vibrates a lot) I’m worried about bottoming out and cracking the dome

I can’t get a solid answer from orca or focal .....
 
681 - 700 of 787 Posts
Top