DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I’ve been on this kick of trying to increase the value of my car to myself. One of my big things is wanting a good sound system. I currently got focal isu 690 (6x9 component system) being powered by an alpine pdx 4.100, no rear speakers, and a Rockford fosgate p3 12 inch sub being powered by a Rockford prime 750 amp. Don’t get me wrong it’s a nice sound system but when I step into my friends cars who has a newer car or an upgraded sound system I fall in love, despite my system costing more / having more reputable brand speakers. I really just want a full sounding system that will do me right on road trips and cruising around. I’ve always had this thing for wanting a full alpine car system (given I’d still get a different brand sub) or a full JL sound system. Do you think any JL or alpine systems (trying to spend $250 on fronts and $150 on the rears) would be a logical switch from my entry level focals? Again I don’t need my ears bleeding but would still like a clear but more hearty system in there. The sun imo needs to be the first as it just hits hard to one frequency and is pretty ****ty at every other frequency. Love to hear your guys opinion/thoughts. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,138 Posts
Preferred brand for quick & dirty builds.. JBL. For methodically thought out builds... a hodgepodge of tested equipment. My best results usually come from setups that are selectively matched, installed for optimization, and maximized with a good tune. Lacking in any one of those things most likely will hinder performance for what you've paid.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,266 Posts
I made the mistake of buying low level Focals during my early attempt at upgrading my stereo and had a similar result, tweeters so harsh and overly bright that it was depressing to hear.

I am probably not the best one to say this but: typically there is no need to stick to one brand for all your gear, most people mix and match brands (I know, I didn't) but the most important advice I could offer is getting hi-end or hi-end sounding equipment, and THAT is what you can learn from the posters here.

Second, is matching or balancing your components quality-wise, running $300 speakers from a two thousand dollar amp is typically not going to sound as good as running $1300 speakers off a thousand dollar amp...

Cheers...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Selkec and Paul S.

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,666 Posts
Hello, I’ve been on this kick of trying to increase the value of my car to myself. One of my big things is wanting a good sound system. I currently got focal isu 690 (6x9 component system) being powered by an alpine pdx 4.100, no rear speakers, and a Rockford fosgate p3 12 inch sub being powered by a Rockford prime 750 amp. Don’t get me wrong it’s a nice sound system but when I step into my friends cars who has a newer car or an upgraded sound system I fall in love, despite my system costing more / having more reputable brand speakers. I really just want a full sounding system that will do me right on road trips and cruising around. I’ve always had this thing for wanting a full alpine car system (given I’d still get a different brand sub) or a full JL sound system. Do you think any JL or alpine systems (trying to spend $250 on fronts and $150 on the rears) would be a logical switch from my entry level focals? Again I don’t need my ears bleeding but would still like a clear but more hearty system in there. The sun imo needs to be the first as it just hits hard to one frequency and is pretty ****ty at every other frequency. Love to hear your guys opinion/thoughts. Thanks
Not even with that budget.. but more importantly I agree with the frog man @GotFrogs - EQ, time alignment, and making sure the drivers are properly installed will take a system with average every day speakers and make it sound way better... (then you can worry about getting better spekers down the road) Do not underestimate the importance of having EQ and time alignment in a car.. a DSP is preferrable but a good headunit can do these functions as well along with a microphone like a minidsp umik, audiofrog mic or dayton mic and room eq wizard (free software)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Not even with that budget.. but more importantly I agree with the frog man @GotFrogs - EQ, time alignment, and making sure the drivers are properly installed will take a system with average every day speakers and make it sound way better... (then you can worry about getting better spekers down the road) Do not underestimate the importance of having EQ and time alignment in a car.. a DSP is preferrable but a good headunit can do these functions as well along with a microphone like a minidsp umik, audiofrog mic or dayton mic and room eq wizard (free software)
Agree too, A good head unit and correct install can make the worst speakers sound reasonable. On the flip side, a bad head unit can make the best speakers sound distorted and tinny! Worse then the worse speakers and better head unit combination. Delve into head unit settings to at least correct some resonance (Bass & Treble is a start)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,169 Posts
Money and brand do NOT guarantee a good sound system. I put a set of db drive euphoria es7c (less than $100) in my daughters car with passives and I couldn’t get it to sound right off the kenwood deck with all the bells and whistles. However I grabbed a Dayton 4080dsp and ran the set active off an alpine pdx v9. I still can believe how great it sounds with a quick tune including TA, level match and a single run through with a mic and rew. There is nothing wrong with your equipment, the only issue your having is like Andy states, you need a dsp and a good tune.
there is a thread on here recently aboutan award winning bmw that used stock speakers but added an aftermarket dsp.
Honestly you need to finish the install with a dsp before you start buying and switching speakers and amps. Your missing a big piece of the puzzle.
as a matter of fact your friends with newer cars have systems that are eqed and processed from the factory to give that sound with $1 speakers.

Tune is king not necessarily just equipment.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,954 Posts
In case it hasn't been mentioned... you need a DSP! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
762 Posts
Money and brand do NOT guarantee a good sound system. I put a set of db drive euphoria es7c (less than $100) in my daughters car with passives and I couldn’t get it to sound right off the kenwood deck with all the bells and whistles. However I grabbed a Dayton 4080dsp and ran the set active off an alpine pdx v9. I still can believe how great it sounds with a quick tune including TA, level match and a single run through with a mic and rew. There is nothing wrong with your equipment, the only issue your having is like Andy states, you need a dsp and a good tune.
there is a thread on here recently aboutan award winning bmw that used stock speakers but added an aftermarket dsp.
Honestly you need to finish the install with a dsp before you start buying and switching speakers and amps. Your missing a big piece of the puzzle.
as a matter of fact your friends with newer cars have systems that are eqed and processed from the factory to give that sound with $1 speakers.

Tune is king not necessarily just equipment.
finally someone other than me talking about euphoria stuff. at msrp it isnt competitive, but its easy to find below msrp, and can sound great for the actual cost in the right install
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,677 Posts
Most of what you don't like about this can probably be vastly improved with the addition of a DSP--equalization will help a lot.
I'm going to second (third, fourth) this statement. With a budget of $400, you'd be much better off adding a dsp, Dayton 408 @$150. There's no better improvement than adding a dsp and a good tune.
Except maybe moving from head unit power to amplifier power.
 

·
Registered
2007 Dodge Charger SXT
Joined
·
192 Posts
Be very careful going with one brand only. I did that with Digital Designs audio (I only kept the subs and sub amp) and I was disappointed. Don't be afraid to mix stuff up. I also cannot stress enough how important a DSP unit is. Every system that I've had that didn't have a DSP did not satisfy me. Now that I have a Helix DSP, the music has come alive and it sounds better than I could have imagined, especially this the speakers I have now. My system would sound like crap without my DSP so I would honestly tell you to consider getting a DSP unit and getting it tuned professionally if you cannot tune it yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Definitely taking everything into consideration. I think my next buy will be the DSP and follow that with some coaxials for the back. I found a steal last night and had to buy. A guy was selling 2 JL-Audio 12w3v3-4 subs in a Jl audio slot ported box, and I got them for $300. Brand new subs that he bought shortly before buying a new car and his wife said absolutely not to put them in the new car. Tested today and they completely changed my system. Don't know what was going on with my last sub but let me tell you its a night and day difference in my car now. The system sounds much fuller to where as long as I figure out my issue with my front right tweeter (Please check my other discussion if your good with that stuff) that it would sound pretty amazing, even without the dsp. Thanks again for the advise!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Most of what you desire is your own preference and how your ears perceive sound. That sound you hear is your sweet spot! What others may hear, might sound a little distorted or tinny! etc. Most people love bass, which is why most modern CD's sound like crap! They have been designed to have bass for modern kids, thereby making new cheap systems sound loud (interpretation) and reducing clarity from CD's allowing manufacturers to make things more cheaply.

I sometimes feel I can hear how fake CD's are with the digital or electronic beeps. It's like listening to a real piano or a synthesizer. The difference is easy to hear for me. I once did a test. I had an Alpine MRV-1000, specifically for my 4 x 10 subs. I decided to swap the MRV-400 to the subs and link the MRV-1000 to the front DDDrive splits. I pulled up beside somebody at the lights and the old guy beside me (now me lol!) said turn it down. It was crystal clear and extremely loud almost deafening. It is just a tweak of the system and I believe you need to alter something. It could be baffling behind front woofers, or placement of subs, design of box, fiddling with gain controls.

My system back in the 90's was all top class Alpine (not F1 status). I built it for clarity. I had 2 Kicker subs I could remove at anytime. They were specifically boxed into the correct sized boxes, were heavy and could be sat in the boot / trunk, or on the rear seat. They could also be removed altogether. They were cheap, however they sounded like they had a lot more Bass than my Alpine Bass 600's (same diameter). This was possibly due to the fact, I couldn't get the right sized box for the 600's due to how I wanted them placed permanently. Could be how tight the Alpines were compared to the Kicker. The kickers were also ported. There is also a phenomenon, where subs faced towards each other can cancel out sound.

I also had a cheap set of 7x5's in the original position in the middle of the dashboard. Alpine never had 7x5's in those days and I could only find cheap and nasty. I wasn't familiar with FGocal in those days. However they sounded okay because of the Alpine v12 Amp. The idea was a center speaker before center speakers from Alpine were available. Sometimes setting a tweeter as far away from your driving position is best, IE in the kick panels. This helps both left and right sound to travel to your ears at a closer time frame. As one member said DSP helps with this issue. Time correction is key. You can't hear a guitar, then 1 second later hear the drum beat, which is supposed to match the guitar rythym.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,412 Posts
my go-to equipment - JBL GTI, HAT, BRAX, Pioneer
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top