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Pioneer Head unit
CD-7X USB/Ipod Transport
256gb Ipod 5

Converted Flac to WAV but not sure IF i should Rip CD's to WAV ill find out the best sounding WAV
My understanding is that once a music file is compressed, such as FLAC, you can change the file back to WAV, but it doesn't restore any of the information lost during the compression. So I don't think converting FLAC to WAV does anything, good or bad, but that's just my understanding.

Secondly, from what I've read, it's very difficult for even the most highly trained ear to distinguish between WAV and a quality lossless format such as FLAC.

Everything I just said may be wrong, however.
 

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FLAC ALAC and WAV should all be the same for listening purposes as long as the sample rate and bit depth are identical. They are all lossless.
 

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FLAC ALAC and WAV should all be the same for listening purposes as long as the sample rate and bit depth are identical. They are all lossless.
Would all the file types be the same size then?
No that's why I said for LISTENING PURPOSES.
FLAC & ALAC are typically about 1/2 of the file size of a Lossless Uncompressed WAV or AIFF file. However, with FLAC (depending on the converter software) you can choose the amount of compression, from 0 (no compression) to 9 (most compression).

Supposedly the FLAC file remains Lossless and bit-perfect regardless of the amount of compression. But FLAC is a "container" type of Codec and must be decompressed/reassembled on-the-fly by the playback device during playback. Think of a FLAC file as being an "archived" file such as a ZIP or RAR archive file. It must be "Unzipped" on-the-fly by the playback device.

The amount of compression used in the FLAC file determines how hard the playbak device must work (using CPU power) to decompress & reassemble the file during playback. 0 compression takes the least amount of processing power, and a compression level of 9 will take a lot more CPU power in order to decompress & reassemble when playing back.

If you have a DAP or Smartphone that plays FLAC, you might notice that the device sometimes gets much hotter when playing FLAC files as opposed to WAV, AIFF, or MP3, etc. This is because the CPU in the DAP or Smartphone and the DAC itself are working much harder to decompress & reassemble the file.

Your battery life may also be affected, and Hi-Res FLAC files are more prone to playback drop-outs, glitches, and stuttering due to the increased use of processing power and memory buffering during playback. This is especially true when trying to Fast-Forward or quickly skip through FLAC files during playback.

The same may be true when playing DSD files on some devices if they need to convert them to PCM on-the-fly in order to play the file (DoP).
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Bringing this thread back up as I'm running out of room on my iPod. What DAPs are people using besides Fiio?


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Just use the stock hu usb and a 128 gig stick

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Discussion Starter #68
Just use the stock hu usb and a 128 gig stick

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Need something to listen to music at work 10-12hrs a night that can have Bluetooth headphone connectivity. I don't have a double din so the user interface of my deck is a pain to use especially after huge influx of music I had from a very awesome member here


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Samsung Tab S2 8.0, testing with Oasis Plus Bluetooth (4.1) receiver in aptx hd protocol. Optical output into PXA-H800.

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Metallica didn't do streaming until recently ( referring to your way earlier post). Napster formerly Rhapsody was the first to stream in 320. About 15 years ago. They have a great library. That being said I use Tidal and/or Napster > LG tablet with full size USB > muse dac or aptx Bluetooth 3.0 (depending on listening preference that day) > HU (Sound Monitor) > Minidsp. In my truck it's simply Phone to aptx of my pioneer hu to C-DSP and that sounds good.
 

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Android phone (LG V30) > USB > Helix P6. Thats it. Simple and clean. :D

As far as music, I use Hibby music player which has the USB "bit perfect" output option, so its about as good as you can get (I think), I have many of the ECA collection (CD WAV files) and a few of my own PCM files, and streaming with Spotify "Extreme" which is really only 320K or something but its just for crusing, so not a big deal if its not real SQ.

Works for me, I dont see it getting much better until BT matches the USB SQ.
 

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That's honestly why I have both. You can't tell the difference driving down the road (mostly) between aptx and the muse. Parked you can. So 90% of the time jumping in and out it's Bluetooth. The other 10% I haven't had the same components in the car long to see if there is something better than dac I have.
 

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That's honestly why I have both. You can't tell the difference driving down the road (mostly) between aptx and the muse. Parked you can. So 90% of the time jumping in and out it's Bluetooth. The other 10% I haven't had the same components in the car long to see if there is something better than dac I have.
I was pretty undecided between usb and Bluetooth, since I discovered how get aptx HD on my tablet. Do you think there is still difference from usb and aptx HD (48kHz/24bit)?

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That's honestly why I have both. You can't tell the difference driving down the road (mostly) between aptx and the muse. Parked you can. So 90% of the time jumping in and out it's Bluetooth. The other 10% I haven't had the same components in the car long to see if there is something better than dac I have.
Yea I agree. I had a Audioengine B1 and it was awesome! Loved the wireless setup. I tried USB and yea parked with the right source you can tell the difference, but for driving BT is the way to go. I may try to get the BT setup again so I can have both.
 

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I was pretty undecided between usb and Bluetooth, since I discovered how get aptx HD on my tablet. Do you think there is still difference from usb and aptx HD (48kHz/24bit)?

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Usb is great, but you can have crappy converting still. Digital is still converted. Think of accents. Yeah we all speak American but a New Yorker can't understand a guy from the brush of Mississippi. Digital is the same way. Is all digital but it had to get converted for each part to understand it. A lot of times one simple digital to analog conversation is best. So go great with the dac's and Bluetooth adapters or don't get caught up on what could be.
 

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Usb is great, but you can have crappy converting still. Digital is still converted. Think of accents. Yeah we all speak American but a New Yorker can't understand a guy from the brush of Mississippi. Digital is the same way. Is all digital but it had to get converted for each part to understand it. A lot of times one simple digital to analog conversation is best. So go great with the dac's and Bluetooth adapters or don't get caught up on what could be.
I choose bluetooth just to don't get crappy with usb/otg/charging and so on...
Technically the only one D/A conversion could be done by PXA. Bluetooth is a digital streaming, the adapter convert digital to digital (optical) then the signal go into DSP. I hope so... anyway I have a Clarion with digital output and I am going to compare it.
Thanks"
 

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Bringing this thread back up as I'm running out of room on my iPod. What DAPs are people using besides Fiio?
Check out the just announced iBasso DX120. I believe that it is $299 and has Two MicroSD Card Slots. Samsung is releasing a 500GB MicroSD Card soon. Sandisk currently makes one up to 400GB.



I was pretty undecided between usb and Bluetooth, since I discovered how get aptx HD on my tablet. Do you think there is still difference from usb and aptx HD (48kHz/24bit)?
How are you getting Apt-X HD from your Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 8.0???

AFAIK, Apt-X HD requires a newer Qualcomm Chipset that the Tab S2 does not have (I also have the Tab S2 8.0). You can get standard Apt-X ("almost" CD Quality 16/44.1) but not 24-bit "HD" Apt-X.

I'm currently doing a trial run in my GF's CUV with the newer ToTL Kenwood DDX-9905S which plays Hi-Res 24-bit WAV & FLAC along with DSD files via USB. It has a really nice HD display and TWO Rear USB Ports. Using a 1TB SSD and 2TB 2.5" HDD. It has Apt-X BT as well. Also Wireless Android Auto and wired Apple Carplay. I don't absolutely love the GUI, but it's "good enough".

I'm using the iDataLink Maestro RR interface module to retain & add to the Steering Wheel Controls, and it provides a few Performance Gauges & Sensor Readouts for the car via the OBDII port.

As another source I also use the International cellular phone & data version of the Samsung Tab S2 8.0 (SM-T715Y) via USB and either the USB Audio Player Pro or Musicolet apps feeding digital via USB into the USB HEC module of the Helix DSP Pro MK 2. I also use the Tab S2 along with my Note FE (Note 7) smartphone via Apt-X BT connected to the Kenwood DD HU. The Kenwood allows TWO concurrent BT Connections and will automatically switch to either of device when a phone call comes in.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Check out the just announced iBasso DX120. I believe that it is $299 and has Two MicroSD Card Slots. Samsung is releasing a 500GB MicroSD Card soon. Sandisk currently makes one up

This looks pretty appealing but I don't think it has Bluetooth to connect to my wireless headphone. I sent them an email to get some more info thank you for the suggestion


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I was using my stock HU, 8" Mylink for my 2018 Silverado- to Lc2i- Dayton DSP-408, I either listen to Sirius or Pandora through my HU using my hotspot on my phone as wifi connection.

However the past week I used the BT option on my Dayton DSP and streamed from my phone bypassing the HU and OMG did my highs/mid bass come alive!! I haven't got to truly tune my DSP yet but after hearing it through the phone I understand why DSPs are soooo necessary!

Only drawbacks are for some reason my sub does not get nearly as loud/ hit as hard when using phone through DSP as when using HU to DSP... thinking it has something to do with the Lc2i and bass boost I get from it... but everything else sounds soooo much better through the phone- if I could combine the 2 itd be perfect!

Hopefully the PAC Ap4-gm61 fixes this, just ordered it last night so I can get a clean signal from my HU.
 
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