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There's lots of debate about this...
I kinda subscribe to the idea that cheap RCA cables work just as good as expensive ones (based on my own experience).
However, I can fully understand the logic and principles behind developing a good RF rejecting cable.

To answer your question; I've found (and used) a few decent brands of cables:

Knuconceptz makes a good quality cable, that is very well priced:

Monoprice cables are dirt cheap, and very good quality:

I am currently using Stinger 8000 Series cables, and they are excellent:
 
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Discussion Starter #3
There's lots of debate about this...
I kinda subscribe to the idea that cheap RCA cables work just as good as expensive ones (based on my own experience).
However, I can fully understand the logic and principles behind developing a good RF rejecting cable.

To answer your question; I've found a couple decent brands of cables:

Knuconceptz makes a good quality cable, that is very well priced:

I am currently using Stinger 8000 Series cables, and they are excellent:
actually both of these you mentioned are shortlisted, as well as the jl audio, and focals.
thing is the cart easily hits $100-200 (hard to swallow), that's why i want to see, what others have had success with.
since i need about 4ch for input and 12ch for output.

but stinger's 8000 seem like a decent choice.
 

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i need about 4ch for input and 12ch for output. but stinger's 8000 seem like a decent choice.
I'll be honest; I only got the Stingers, because they looked cool. They don't sound any better than the cheap ones...
 

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I am using Magomi wire and Neutrik Profi ends.
(Mostly because the lengths are long and they are odd lengths.)

I also do not believe that they matter much, and a foil jacket and braided jacket of the wire seems to do the trick.

There is no dishonour in buying cables, as they are a bit of a PITA to assemble and solder, but not too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
as long as they don't pick up noise and of enough gauge to pass current i am cool with that, i had generic Sony's that didn't intro any noise, it was fine by me. some cables are just noise magnets.

I'll be honest; I only got the Stingers, because they looked cool. They don't sound any better than the cheap ones...

but the prices are ridiculous on some cables, i thought it's just passing electrons without coloration is it's purpose.

I am using Magomi wire and Neutrik Profi ends.
(Mostly because the lengths are long and they are odd lengths.)

I also do not believe that they matter much, and a foil jacket and braided jacket of the wire seems to do the trick.

There is no dishonour in buying cables, as they are a bit of a PITA to assemble and solder, but not too bad.
it's more work than i want to do, or know how to do correctly, i just want the cheapest option that will get the job done correctly.
 

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They are pretty much the same for sound quality. The plugs themselves are the weak link, whether it's oxidation or the wiring fails. I've got a box of bad RCA's from the years. They help hold the ball of useless chargers, Cat5 cable and other adapters together.
 

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I use the Stinger 8000s . I like the flexibility they offer plus you can snug the plug once installed on your I/O.
They also make the 9000s which cost many times more and not sure what they offer at that price .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I use the Stinger 8000s . I like the flexibility they offer plus you can snug the plug once installed on your I/O.
They also make the 9000s which cost many times more and not sure what they offer at that price .
i think i'll go ahead with the 8000's since the price isn't too much and like you said i like the snug plugs.

Thanks peeps for the feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Canare wire and Nuetrik connectors. Takes some time you can make them the length you need. Saved a bunch of money. This is Diyma right?
You’re right, but sourcing parts here (Lebanon) isn’t easy, especially during lockdown.
So I want something priced right and delivers good signal and readily available.
As it is I have my work cut out for me.

too many parts procured, what was going to be a simple system 4Ch plus sub metamorphosed into 12 Active channels with dsp and honestly I just want to start with the wiring ASAP so I can start listening
No competitions here or anyone who cares about car audio so it’s strictly for me.
 

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The Stinger 8000s are great, if you wanna go extra pretty there are the 9000s... ;) I have those in my current build, but unfortunately they are completely hidden from sight... :(

 

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Discussion Starter #14
The Stinger 8000s are great, if you wanna go extra pretty there are the 9000s... ;) I have those in my current build, but unfortunately they are completely hidden from sight... :(

9000’s are over my budget, I believe I’ll go ahead with the 8000’s seems like good cables and everyone is happy with them
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I use these:


They are very inexpensive, the ends fit snug, and they do a perfectly good job rejecting noise.
problem is the length i need at least 15 ft, since i have the amp rack way in the back of my SUV
 

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I've used Knu in the past and they failed over time. I wouldn't recommend them again. I am currently running cables I built myself using 61801EZ cable and Rean connectors. Building your own is more work than a lot of people want to do. For custom built cables, I would talk to Joe at RSD Custom Cables. If you want something simple and off the shelf, I would just order whichever Stinger cables meet your budget constraints.
 
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Also, I have always thought that this break down from Tony D'Amore was helpful for determine which type of RCA cable you should be using.

If the head unit has SE outputs and the amplifier has SE inputs = coax cable
If the head unit has SE outputs and the amplifier has Diff inputs = twisted pair
If the head unit has Diff outputs and the amplifier has Diff inputs = twisted pair
If the head unit has Diff outputs and the amplifier has SE inputs = bad no matter what as you will be shorting out half of the head unit's outputs. In this case you would need an amplifier with Diff inputs or a converter to convert the head unit's outputs to SE

In other words, check to see if your amp has differential inputs. If it does (and the manufacturer will usually say so), run twisted pair. If the amp manufacturer doesn't list "differential" or "balanced" inputs, it likely has single ended inputs and you can run coax.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
great information, thanks a lot!

I believe my HU as well as my amps are SE output and input

Alpine ILX-w650 HU
Helix DSP ultra
Alpine PDX-v9
Alpine S-A32F
Infinity kappa k600 mono amp
Kicker 12 PX100.2 mini amp for the center channel

so according to the information you provided i am better off using a normal coaxial cable.
would a twisted design affect performance or pick up more noise is the question?



Also, I have always thought that this break down from Tony D'Amore was helpful for determine which type of RCA cable you should be using.

If the head unit has SE outputs and the amplifier has SE inputs = coax cable
If the head unit has SE outputs and the amplifier has Diff inputs = twisted pair
If the head unit has Diff outputs and the amplifier has Diff inputs = twisted pair
If the head unit has Diff outputs and the amplifier has SE inputs = bad no matter what as you will be shorting out half of the head unit's outputs. In this case you would need an amplifier with Diff inputs or a converter to convert the head unit's outputs to SE

In other words, check to see if your amp has differential inputs. If it does (and the manufacturer will usually say so), run twisted pair. If the amp manufacturer doesn't list "differential" or "balanced" inputs, it likely has single ended inputs and you can run coax.
 
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