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Discussion Starter #1
Considering some class A amps. I don't need more than 25-30 wpc (less might even be ok). This is for my tweeters and midrange drivers, so decrease in bass response isn't really an issue (I will have separate midbass drivers).

Do you use a passive crossover to run your Twt/Mid off of a 2 channel?

Looking at the Aura NS3, but it requires very little power. I know I can use more than they say as long as I control the volume, but seems like a passive crossover might be a good idea (share the power with the tweeters, which don't need alot either).
 

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When you use a passive crossover, both speakers will get the same amount of power, so i dont know what you mean by sharing power with the tweet ;)

Class A amps are expensive as hell so if you can afford one go for it. and lack of bass response? If you're using a good classA amp, i dont think you'll loose bass response...(no experience with class A).

if you are piecing together a 2-way, the only way to use a passive xover is to make one yourself. Passive crossovers are designed for specific speakers, you can't just slap an Aura speaker on a CDT crossover. If you want to use a 2-channel amp for your front stage, you're probably gonna want to buy a set of components. The reason for this is when you setup a DIY system, you need to use a 4-channel and have an active crossover, or you can design a passive crossover. Components are good to use for some poeple because you just have to pkug them in and they do all of the work for you.

I use Arc Audio 4050XXK's for my front stage. I have one powering my tweets and mids, and i WILL have another bridged to a pair of midbass woofers. Everything is activcely crossed at the headunit (Alpine 9813).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Casedot said:
When you use a passive crossover, both speakers will get the same amount of power, so i dont know what you mean by sharing power with the tweet ;)
Yes, I realize that. I just mean that if 75x2 is more than enough power for mids and tweets, why buy 2 amps to run them if I can design a passive crossover and use 1 amp. Might not be worth the trouble of designing a passive crossover.

Casedot said:
Class A amps are expensive as hell so if you can afford one go for it. and lack of bass response? If you're using a good classA amp, i dont think you'll loose bass response...(no experience with class A).

I know that class A are usually lower power and lower power usually lacks the bass response of a higher power AB amp

Casedot said:
if you are piecing together a 2-way, the only way to use a passive xover is to make one yourself. Passive crossovers are designed for specific speakers, you can't just slap an Aura speaker on a CDT crossover. If you want to use a 2-channel amp for your front stage, you're probably gonna want to buy a set of components.
Yes, I realize that as well. I would have to go through Madisound or similar to have a passive crossover designed specifically for my speakers. Once again, it is a question of if it is worth it.


Casedot said:
I use Arc Audio 4050XXK's for my front stage. I have one powering my tweets and mids, and i WILL have another bridged to a pair of midbass woofers. Everything is activcely crossed at the headunit (Alpine 9813).
I'll take a look at those.

Thanks

main thing that got me thinking about going passive is that I love the Tube Driver amps. Sold on those from the moment I first heard them. Problem is that the lowest power is 75 wpc. That is slight overkill for the mids and tweets I'm looking at, even factoring in the 8ohm load. A 50x4 would be more than sufficient for my purposes. I just need to find one that I like as well as the TubeDriver. Or should I just go ahead and have too much power, as long as I can control the volume?
 

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You must realize that designing crossovers for your SPEAKERS response completely fails to take into account your CARS response. You can design passive crossovers all the live long day, but you will not have something perfectly matched to how the speakers will perform once they're actually in your vehicle.

Also, even though the Tube drivers say 75 wrms, you can gain them down to the point where they aren't overpowering anything. I'm going to have 75 possible wrms going to my ribbon tweeters alone, though I'm going to gain them way way down.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
87DXHatch said:
You must realize that designing crossovers for your SPEAKERS response completely fails to take into account your CARS response. You can design passive crossovers all the live long day, but you will not have something perfectly matched to how the speakers will perform once they're actually in your vehicle.

Also, even though the Tube drivers say 75 wrms, you can gain them down to the point where they aren't overpowering anything. I'm going to have 75 possible wrms going to my ribbon tweeters alone, though I'm going to gain them way way down.
I was wondering about that (passive xover and the car....). I guess I can always turn the gains all the way down on the amp. I really like the Butlers. I would consider another amp only if I heard it and liked it better.

Thanks!
 

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I like my DLS A3 amp, solid quality and construction. I have to also vote for any of the US Amps stuff too.
 

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yeah, if you can do it a 75wrmsx4 tube driver would be fine. Like what 87DXhatch said, you should be fine with that power if you adjust the gains correctly. On my Alpine, I can adjust the output level for each pair of channels (hi, mid, low) so even if there is still too much power going to the tweet I can just turn it down more. I dont know if any other headunits do this cause I have really only used Alpine so far, but I am sure they do. If anything you can set up the tweets on the front output of the headunit, and the mids on the rear, and use the hu's fade to attenuate, heh.
 

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You are better off with a 4 channel amp for mids and tweeters :)

I got myself an ARC 4150 that does 75x4 (4ohms rating), two channel pushes my mids, and the other two are bridged for my 12" sub.

I got a small Clarion A500 Amp that pushes 15x2watts (4ohms rating) to my tweeters.

David
 

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i recently changed my Tube Driver Blue amp to a solidstate amp and lifes pretty boring..... :?
 

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My front stage amps are going to be the PPI A300 on tweeters, then the 4 channels of the Helix HXA500Q bridged to the mids.

5th channel ran at 2 ohms to the sub.

Or maybe a 3 way setup with the 4 channels of the Helix to mids and tweeters, then the A300 on the midbass'.

:?:
 

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Sheepdog,

You should go for the Tube Driver if you want one! I run a Phaze Audio Tube Driver TD475 on my front stage. I have Phass NT28TC tweeters (8ohm) and the Stock Door speakers (for now... I gotta build door pods for my 6.5" Peerless mids) bi amped off the TD. The Phass tweeters despite being 8ohm still get very loud and clear... enough to make my ears hurt! So what if it's overkill, at least you have headroom for when you want it or need it in the future.

10K2HVN,

Did you get rid of your Tube Driver Blue or just swap it out for something different for awhile? I'd NEVER get rid of a Tube Driver Blue if I had one. I sold my Phaze Audio Tube Driver TD1500 about 3 years ago and wish I never sold it. I'll probably never get rid of my TD475 (unless I get a TDB475).

Tube Drivers forver! :D

Ryan
 
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